Hi to everyone who is beta testing this sensor. I built upon the geometry for the housing, and modified it so that the PTFE tube can't be pulled out , and also it is split-able so that you can remove the remnant filament after the tail end has been fed past the hob gear.
Video explaining it here: https://youtu.be/RmZ7aJYvWLc?t=7m40s
.stl file here: https://www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-splitable-duet-laser-filament-bracket-for-bowden-tube-printers-73781
Thank you all for your input and help! Here is my conclusion for anyone else finding this thread and needing an answer:
The following settings using veti's method work:
M305 P0 T97700 B4619 C9.743561e-8 R2200
M305 P1 T97700 B4619 C9.743561e-8 R2200
The following settings using dc42's numbers also work:
M305 P0 T98801 B4185 R2200
M305 P1 T98801 B4185 R2200
I'm guessing that anyone using run of the mill thermistors from China (purchased on ebay or aliexpress, etc) with a Duet Maestro board will find these settings to be functional. I notice little difference between the settings from dc42 and the ones from veti. They vary from each other by only about 2°C at the high end (ABS printing temperature), and they completely agreee/match at room temperature. I'm going to go with dc42's numbers as he explained he was correcting for a rounding error, so potentially more accuracy there. All of this is assuming that the original numbers from the Marlin table were accurate.
Disclaimer: I'm measuring the bed temperature using an IR thermometer which gives varying readings +/- 1.5°C. The accuracy of the Thermometer is also questionable (+/- 2.5°C?). I have no way of accurately measuring the temperature of the hotend. To gauge this I'm manually forcing ABS Filament through the nozzle. While I haven't gotten my fingers calibrated recently, I am comparing the feel of this to the same filament going through my other printer which is properly calibrated for temperatures, and has the same size nozzle. Given these constraints, my conclusions are more of an art than a science.
Your start code seems overly complicated. Most worrisome to me is why are you setting your Z offset at the beginning of every print? This should be set with G31 "trigger value" in config.g.
I showed how to do it in the video here: https://youtu.be/BgkJVgFnPaE?t=21m47s
Once that is set correctly, you should be able to use a very simple start script. Mine is this:
G28 ;Home All
G29 S1 ; Load old Bed Map -- remove the S1 to build a new bed height map
G0 X0 Y0 Z5 ; Move print head to front left corner 5mm off the print surface in preparation for printing
G92 E0 ; Set the extruder to zero
G1 E8 ; prime the nozzle
G92 E0 ; Set the extruder to zero
You may find that you need a file called iap4e.bin in order to update/upgrade the firmware on your Duet2 control board. I know of at least two people who have had this problem. This file can be somewhat hard to find at the moment because it doesn't seem to be included in the newer versions of the Duet firmware. Here is a github link to an older version of the firmware which does include this file. Simply put it in your duet file system and proceed with the update:
https://github.com/dc42/RepRapFirmware/releases/tag/v1.19.2
I hope this helps.
I've succeeded in accomplishing Octolapse-Like Timelapse videos without using a raspberry pi: https://youtu.be/CwHVQ81GfXw
Total project cost was under $10
It would still be nice to be able to trigger photos based on a time interval.
@bot Actually, it's a bit of G-code that I have implemented into my slicer (simplify 3D) By inserting it at every layer change.
I will try the changes you have suggested. These appear to be very good information. Thank you.
@bot That worked thanks. Turns out that it was retracting for each layer change already so I didn't need the M83, but that was a good tip. Thanks. Here is what I ended up with:
G60 S1 ; store current locating information
G1 X267.5 F6000 ; move off the edge of the bed for print wiping
G1 R1 ; recall location information from the G60
M400 ; wait until movement is finised before proceeding
Thanks Phaedrux 
M400 seems to be working, but I didn't do rigorous before and after testing so I can't say if it is needed or not. At any rate the above script achieves the desired outcome.