Posts made by preb1

Thanks for the replies guys but rather embarassingly it is now working ok. I feel such an idiot. I don't know why all of sudden it works fine. The only difference is that I didn't have the usb cable connected to machine or YAT terminal open.
Would that prevent the DWC from opening?
Anyway at the moment I am back printing.
Thanks again for your replies. Always nice too know there is someone there to help.
Cheers
Paul

Hi.
I have not used my printers for a while but went touse them last night and I cannot get the DWC to load. The only change since I used the printers last time is I have a new router and provider but the network I use in my garage is still the same and works fine. The printers connect to the network but I cant get the DWC to load. I connected YAT to check the details andd I got the following.
M552 S1
<LF>WiFi module is connected to access point Wireless-N, IP address 192.168.0.24
If I ran M587 I got a the same remenbered network but different IP address of 192.168.0.14.
I thought it best to get rid of the remembered network so ran M588 S"*" and got rid of all networks. Ran 587 S"SSID" P"password".
M552 S1 and I am connected to Wireless-N IP192.168.0.24 etc.
So this is where I am getting stuck. Printer is connected to network.
I type the IP address 192.168.0.24 and I get "Your Duet rejected the HTTP request: page not found
Check that the SD card is mounted and has the correct files in its /www folder"
I dont know where to go from here. Nothing else has changed.
Any help please?
Best regards
Paul

OK. Update.
Printing the benchy after modifying the outlets made it worse.
Reverted back and this time I started the fan at layer 3. Fan at 75% and temp at 220 degrees. This time a marked improvement. The first 9mm (or 180 layers are ok.•No lumps and bumps) From then on it is perfect. I have to eat humble pie and say I do need cooling but I think my cooling duct needs refining as maybe its not quite hitting the right spot.
I altered the config as per values posted by Phaedrux but it made no difference to the temp. After taking readings with a thermometer the hot end is still at the indicated temp both before and after the changes.
Thanks to all for the advice. I certainly learnt something.

0_1566556777334_config.g.txt
This is my config file

Its from TCMUK-3d. NTC Thermistor Brass Cartridge 100Kohm

This is config entry for thermistor.
M305 P1 T100000 B4138 C0 R4700

I've just altered the cooling outlets to point more down so as not to blow across where the filament is laid down. Got a feeling they may have been cooling the filament as it was going down so maybe cooling to quickly.
Just printing a benchy now.

Thermistor values I think are correct. I did a PID tune and set the values. The temp is rock steady as is the bed which is mains powered heated mat.
The cat was printed with the same setup.
Not using pressure advance. 2mm retraction set up at moment.
Printer is set at 2400mm/min.
I print first layer at 40% speed as I find this gets a good first layer. The outline is set to 40% as well.
So first layer prints at 16mm/s with the outline at 6.5mm/s
Thereafter everylayer prints at 40mm/s with the outline at 16mm/s.
I chose the fan to come on after 10 layers as this seemed a good point to start.

Ok. Update.
Tried printing a benchy at 215 degrees and 100% fan. Set fan to come on at Layer 10 (2mm). That was the end of that . No layer stuck after that and no, my cooling outlet is not blowing at the nozzle but at the print.
I printed an overhang test piece firstly with no cooling and 195 degrees. Printed ok until about 50 degrees overhang when it got a bit messy. Then I printed it at 215 degrees and 50% fan. About the same quality but had no strength. Could pull it apart easily. I'm using Sakata 3d filament. Now going to try Rigid Ink filament.
The daft thing is that when this was a standard printer I could print a benchy no problem. Since upgrading to a genuine E3D and a Direct drive extruder I have had all these problems. I guess that is the answer. Revert to original.
As an aside my delta with a duet board and a E3D and Flexidrive extruder also prints a benchy no problem with no cooling.
It makes me think that 3D printing is not an exact science as some make it out to be.

But does not the cat I printed have overhangs?

15x50 centrifugal fan

Thanks for all the replies. Unfortunately I don't agree with cooling for pla. I don't find I need to cool the part. I can print a 20mm single wall cube with no cooling and I get no problems. At 30mm print speed that's just under 3 secs per layer. I always thought you print at lowest temp possible without stringing. This is why I find it hard to believe it's overtemp that's causing the finish on the benchy. Any cooling I use results in layer separation with all makes of pla even if I only use 20% or so.
My jerk is 800mm/s on x,y and z. Accel is 2000mm/s, 3000mm/s on extruder and retraction is 80mm/sec and retraction set at 2mm.
You're right, don't print a benchy but I am curious as to why I can't print them with success.
I am trying now to print 3 at once to see if there is any difference in finish.

@denke Thanks for the suggestion.
I have thought of that but I only print PLA and at 190 to 195 degrees. I only occasionally use cooling if it's got overhangs otherwise I find the layers don't stick together. I have tried all sorts of temps with and without cooling. I usually print a temp tower and use lowest temp that gives a good finish.
This is very weird.

Hi all.
Been running my CR-10 for a while with the duet and been getting some excellent prints. Just changed to a Bondtech clone (trianglabs I think) extruder and its been working great. Much better now its direct drive and no bowden.
I do however have one problem. Whenever I print a benchy I get horrible finish on the sides which I cannot figure out what the problem is. All other prints seem to come out fine as can be seen from the pics. I have messed about with acceleration, speeds, coasting, retraction etc. I use simplify 3d but I've tried Kisslicer, Cura and Slic3r and all come out relatively the same finish but maybe in different places but always on the sides. I can't believe it's mechanical as other printes come out good. Thought it may be corrupted file but changed download place and still the same.
Any ideas?

@wilriker
Thanks very much. I get it now. My mistake was not changing directories.
I was interested in tinkering with the HSTRT and HEND values as I have messed about with Toff values but it did not make much difference to the noise. As I can adjust those values via M569 input (now I know the parameters) I can try that.
Thanks again for your help. Much appreciated.
Paul

Thanks for the reply.

Yes I did download chopconf_win_amd64.exe but I cannot get it to run in the cmd window. I think I need a little help here please

Following on from R3play's request, I too would like to try and reduce the motor hiss at idle.

I have 2 Duet3d boards running a delta and a cartesian printer and I think they are great. I especially love the ease at which you can change the firmware (using 2.02 rrf) and I definately think Reprap is far better than Marlin.

However, I am still very green when it comes to programming etc.

Both printers suffer from motor hiss at idle which on the delta is not to bad but the cartesian is quite loud. I have messed about with the TOFF settings which has made a little difference. Even tried different steppers but just the same.
I have not tried upping the voltage to 24 volts yet. Still using a 12 volt PSU set at 15 volts.
I would like to try adjusting some of the other settings available but haven't a clue what the codes are. I have been reading the other posts and see that you can adjust other setting using M569 as you do for the TOFF parameter but what are the parameters. Also downloaded Chopconf-generator but haven't a clue how to run it. Looked at it in notepad++ but thats all.

Anybody help me please?

Ok. Fixed it. A case of "Rodney you plonker".
Despite checking it numerous times I had wired it up wrong. Think I must be colour blind.
Works fine now.

I need some help please.

I have just completely rebuilt my CR-10 and changed board for the latest Duet 2 wifi board with 1.21 firmware as it came delivered.
Connected to wifi no problem. Used Reprap firmware configurator (both the new and old one) to compile custom firware. Uploaded no problem. BL Touch probe work ok in that it goes through it self test. Cannot try it as as probe yet due to steppers not working.
Hot end heats up ok as well. Fans fine. I cannot get the steppers to move at all and I have no endstops working. No endstop lights on board. Endstops are NC. when I select any axis to move it just groans for a split second but does not move although it is locked. I have double checked the connectors are correct and made sure steppers are wired correctly.
I used another duet board on my Delta 6 months ago and had no problems in getting it going so I am lost as to whats going on with this one.
Anyone got any ideas please?

@dc42
Hi.
Been doing all the sensing in the garage at night so workshop lights may cause a problem. I have set probe mode P1 and have the trigger set at 500. I will try with a lower light level.

Hi again.

Update.

I covered the heated Bed with blue tape and run the bed levelling sequence and I get nice consistant results. Did 10 bed levels and all results within 0.015mm which I presume is not too bad. So I guess the problem is reflection even though the printbite is black.
Anyone else had these problems.
Would welcome a response.