Posts made by Poent

Replaced the power supply and the issue was instantly resolved.

Nothing more than an odd coincidence with the rebuild!

@dc42

I'm currently using a dedicated 12v 30a switching power supply, though it is certainly a cheap Amazon supply and wouldn't be surprised if it's failing.

Is there a power supply you recommend? I've already ordered a replacement 24v switching power supply to test with, but would be interested to know your recommendations.

Thanks

edit: I've found the "choosing a power supply link" in the wiki, so nevermind!
https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Choosing_the_power_supply

Sure thing.

Here are the results from each:

M112_Before.txt
M112_After.txt

The specific steps I took to replicate the above were:

1. restart the Duet
2. Home all Axis (worked normally without issue)
3. send M84
4. Home all axis (Undervoltage error, steppers begin skipping repeatedly until endstops are hit (5mm away, skipped steps take a long time to hit endstops).
5. M84 is sent again to stop skipping steps (can hear the steppers skipping while holding idle until m84 is sent again).

@SIam

I just had a moment to test with the multi-meter and when replicating the issue VIN measures at 10.49v. VIN through the Duet Web GUI reads 9.5v. Confirming the Low-Voltage reading.

For the power supply, I'm only as confident as the sticker on the side. I do have a multimeter and have used that to ensure that I'm getting 12v from the supply. I have not yet measured the voltage coming from the supply when the issue is occurring however - I will see if I can capture that.

The PSU is powering the Duet board, 3x Nema17 motors, one small fan, and a large heated bed (though the heated bed has been disabled/off for all of my testing).

I'm not sure the best way to test if anything is getting hot on the duet board, but gently touching the drives and what I think is the voltage regulator, they do not seem to be producing a concerning amount of heat.

Hello,

I've had a new issue crop up after rebuilding a Delta style printer. After power cycling or resetting the printer it homes and moves normally - and can progress through an entire print without issue. If I let the motors idle timeout occur however, or manually send the M84 command, the next home event will cause all steppers to skip and trigger the following console error:

VIN under-voltage event (9.5V)Error: Attempt to move motors when VIN is not in range

I can see that the VIN readout under Machine status does indeed fall to around that range during the issue.

I can sometimes get the printer to recover to normal voltage levels by sending M84 and retrying, and it has always worked immediately after a power cycle, but I can't seem to find the root cause.

The power supply worked fine not but a day before the rebuild and I've confirmed that there are no loose wires or screw terminals. I can also proceed through a several hour long print as long as I start it before the motor idle timeout.

Could anyone recommend some other things to check?

I'm using a Duet WiFi 1.02, firmware version 2.03, wifi version 1.21, web version 1.22.6
Power supply is a 12v/30A supply running off 115v mains.
I've attached my current config file for review. config.g

Thanks

Automatic bed leveling should be considered a convenience, and specifically should NOT be relied upon until you've done your best to level the bed manually. I printed for years without any automated bed leveling setup and had great success - though a significant amount of time was spent on the manual leveling process.

So yes, you can proceed to use a 3d printer without automatic bed leveling - and the duet works without relying on one as well.

Thank you very much for clarifying that for me!

Based on your description I was able to test and confirmed that the trace between the vfan select and power in Vins had fused.

I temporarily connected a wire directly from an available 12v output on the PSU to the V_FAN pin on the fan select jumper block and the fans began to work again.

Out of curiosity is this a viable long term solution (if I have no interest in powering 5v fans)? Or would you recommend soldering a jumper directly from the Power In terminal to the VIn pin (and subsequently using the jumper)?

EDIT:

Saw my question answered in another thread. For anyone that finds this in the future; the answer is yes, you can connect 12v directly to the v_fan header of the Fan Select pin block to bypass a fused trace.

Thanks for your assistance!

Hey Guys,

I just got my DuetWifi and none of the fans appear to be working. Neither of the always on fans or PWM controlled fans seem to work.

If I move the fan select jumper to the 5V setting the always on fan pins read correctly (at 5v), but I use 12v fans for everything so this does me no good..

I read this thread in my search for answers:
https://www.duet3d.com/forum/thread.php?id=4503#p39340

In this thread it's suggested that:

You probably shorted out one of the fan connections or connected a fan with the black and red wires the wrong way round;, and that caused the trace between the VIN pin of the fan voltage selector jumper and +VIN on the power input terminal block to fuse. You can check that with a multimeter. If you find there is no continuity between those points, you can bypass that trace with a wire on the back of the board.

Can anyone clarify the second part of the comment for me?

I understand the word "fuse" to mean "connect", so if the Fan Jumper Select VIN pin has been fused with the +VIN terminal on the power in block… then I should see continuity between the two. But instead the comment suggests that if I do NOT see continuity between those points then I need to solder a wire to "bypass a trace". Maybe I have a misunderstanding with the terminology, but right now that seems contradictory - so I'd like some guidance.

To sum up I have three questions:

What should the voltage read on the "vFan Jumper Select" vin-pin be?
What pins should I be testing for continuity between in this scenario to test if something is messed up? (vfan select vin and power in vin?)
If I get a reading on this in contradiction to what it should be - what two pins should the wire jumper be between to bypass the issue?

Thanks in advance for any help you can provide.