Posts made by pedromelim

@Phaedrux said in Extruder clicking/going backwards:

M204 P6000

Your print accelerations are really aggressive. Try M204 P1000

What slicer are you using?

Prusa Slicer, and i would prefer still keeping using it as i have an Mk2.5

@Veti said in Extruder clicking/going backwards:

@pedromelim said in Extruder clicking/going backwards:

only happens when attached to the extruder but the motor on its own does the same movement.

as deckingman said. the backwards movement is exactly how Pressure advance works.

check the grub screws inside of the bmg. they can become loose as well.

Checked them both, they are all ok.

I managed to print a full benchy with the base values i started with, without pressure advance, and im getting mixed results.

When it prints slowly i get very nice finish but there there are parts that i get underextrusion and over extrusion. Its really weird.

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with this config:

M350 X16 Y16 Z16 E16 I1 ; configure microstepping with interpolation
M92 X80.00 Y80.00 Z400.00 E409.31 ; set steps per mm
M566 X900.00 Y900.00 Z60.00 E3000.00 ; set maximum instantaneous speed changes (mm/min)
M203 X15000.00 Y15000.00 Z300.00 E8000.00; set maximum speeds (mm/min)
M204 P6000 T6000 ; Set printing and travel accelerations
M201 X6000.00 Y6000.00 Z60.00 E3000.00 ; set accelerations (mm/s^2)
M906 X1000 Y1000 Z1000 E800 I30 ; set motor currents (mA) and motor idle factor in per cent
M84 S30 ; Set idle timeout

Retraction was between 5 or 6.5, not sure wich one and sretraction speed 60mm/s.

@Veti said in Extruder clicking/going backwards:

can you try adding
M569 P3 D2
and see if it still clicks.

Tried it and its the same, but seems less prominent.

@deckingman said in Extruder clicking/going backwards:

@pedromelim said in Extruder clicking/going backwards:

As said before...the noise and the clicking still happen when the motor is not attached to the extruder. Thats why it doesnt make sense how much it is happening.

I must have missed that. So it's the motor that makes a clicking noise, not the extruder yes?

Ya, well...the "clicking sound" only happens when attached to the extruder but the motor on its own does the same movement.

Probably all of this is just bad config speeds jerk etc. My experience with pressure advance was only on a Prusa Mk2.5 and i had none of these issues.

@deckingman said in Extruder clicking/going backwards:

@pedromelim The "problem" is that the extruder clicks when going in reverse (as per your title) yes? It manifests itself during retraction or with PA enabled. In both those cases, the extruder can run in reverse. So stopping the extruder from doing those types of moves, or limiting the amount of reverse movement won't cure the problem. It'll merely help to hide it. As I said before, it's likely backlash in the gears or possibly a faulty bearing. It might be worth checking that the grub screws holding the hobbed gear on the motor shaft is tight. If it was a genuine BMG then I'm sure that Bondtech would advise, supply replacement parts, or even replace the entire unit if it was under warranty. You could try approaching the supply of the clone to see if they would offer the same service.

As said before...the noise and the clicking still happen when the motor is not attached to the extruder. Thats why it doesnt make sense how much it is happening.

@deckingman Tks, will try adjusting my Speed, Acceleration and speed change.

Probably the retraction is causing the problem even more, as in the beggining when i turned PA on it wasnt that bad, but once i started changing values in the slicer in the day after, it went really worst.

When i get to PA again i will try changing the retraction settings and see what i can get from it.

@Veti said in Extruder clicking/going backwards:

turn off pressure advance. and check again.

Thats what i tested after first post, works fine without pressure advance.
What i think its too weird and not at all normal to be happening, its that even if the motor is not on the extruder, even sitting on the desk by itself it does that.

@deckingman said in Extruder clicking/going backwards:

@pedromelim said in Extruder clicking/going backwards:

The thing is, i tried the motor without being in the extruder, just to see if without load of pushing the filament would act the same, and it does the same thing.

It will. It's normal behaviour with PA. The important thing is how does it print? Have you actually got a problem with print quality or is it just that the extruder is doing what looks like strange things but print quality is otherwise fine. ?

With PA Enabled? Severe under extrusion. Without it, corners are looking horrible. Thats why i turned it on and tried to tune the rinter. Im gonna try tunning it better without PA, but eventually would want to turn it on again.

I used S0.1 and S0.2 because it was what was advised on the wiki as a standart for bowden tubes of about 400mm.

Also im gonna try get my speed, acceleration values and jerk values tuned as what i used was based from someone else.

@Phaedrux said in Extruder clicking/going backwards:

Those are fairly high values. How did you arrive that them?

Is this a bowden or direct drive setup?

What is the max rated current of the extruder motor? 500ma is fairly low.

Its a bowden setup. Im not sure about the current, asked already about the datasheet to the vendor.

@deckingman said in Extruder clicking/going backwards:

The behaviour you observe with the extruder is normal when using PA. The clicking sound you hear is most likely backlash if it's a geared extruder or possibly an extruder bearing issue. My E3D Titans used to do it, my Bondtech BMGs do not.

Its a BMG clone.

The thing is, i tried the motor without being in the extruder, just to see if without load of pushing the filament would act the same, and it does the same thing.

@Phaedrux said in Extruder clicking/going backwards:

The values for the extruder look ok. What pressure advance value were you trying to use?

Tried S0.1 and S0.2 and both gave the same problem.

@droftarts said in Extruder clicking/going backwards:

@pedromelim said in Extruder clicking/going backwards:

I have changed the current on the motor from 0.8 to 0.5 and still the same.

Please post your config.g, the specification of your hot end thermistor, and the make/model your extruder motor, extruder and hot end. This may help to track down the problem.

Regarding motor current, you probably want to increase the current on the extruder motor, not decrease it, but this will depend on the motor, though 500mA is low. I'd expect the clicking noise is the motor skipping, as it doesn't have enough torque to push the filament. You can usually see this by watching the filament feed into the extruder; it will bounce back rather than feed in as the motor clicks. When extruding into air (with space below the nozzle), there is a lot less force on the extruder compared to when it is printing, as the nozzle is effectively blocked by the bed (for the first layer) or the previous layer. So your extruder motor, and the extruder's grip on the filament, needs to be strong enough to overcome this. And it gets worse as speed increases.

One simple test is to increase the hot end temperature. If you have not set your hot end thermistor correctly, the temperature may be over-reading, so you may not be hitting a high enough temperature to extrude consistently.

However, there may be a multitude of other problems that cause an increase in extrusion pressure: incorrectly assembled hot end causing heat to creep up the feed tube, friction in Bowden tube, weak extruder and/or motor, partially blocked hot end, etc etc. It really could be anything!

Ian

I have tracked it down. I disabled Pressure advance and the clicking stopped instantly. I even tried enabling it afterwards mid print and the clicking started again.

Probably my values for speeds accelerations and jerk are probably interfering with pressure advance?

I will leave the values here to see if anyone can get some insight, as i wanna take advantage of the pressure advance.

; Drives
M569 P0 S0 ; physical drive 0 goes forwards
M569 P1 S0 ; physical drive 1 goes forwards
M569 P2 S0 ; physical drive 2 goes forwards
M569 P3 S0 ; physical drive 3 goes forwards
M584 X0 Y1 Z2 E3 ; set drive mapping
M350 X16 Y16 Z16 E16 I1 ; configure microstepping with interpolation
M92 X80.00 Y80.00 Z400.00 E409.31 ; set steps per mm
M566 X900.00 Y900.00 Z60.00 E3000.00 ; set maximum instantaneous speed changes (mm/min)
M203 X15000.00 Y15000.00 Z300.00 E8000.00; set maximum speeds (mm/min)
M204 P6000 T6000 ; Set printing and travel accelerations
M201 X6000.00 Y6000.00 Z60.00 E3000.00 ; set accelerations (mm/s^2)
M906 X800 Y800 Z800 E500 I30 ; set motor currents (mA) and motor idle factor in per cent
M84 S30 ; Set idle timeout

So, i have runned into an issue on my corexy build and i dont have a clue on what might be the problem.

When i try manually tell the printer to extruder, no problem at all, but when printing the extruder clicks, and i have figured the pattern that it clicks.

For example, imagine a flat square, when its doing the solid infill as soon as it reaches the edge line of the square and goes backwards the extruder clicks, if its a small section and has to do that really fast a lot of times the extruder clicks so much that its going backwards.

I have tried with filament and tried motor without pushing filament. I even tried a different motor with same results. I have changed the current on the motor from 0.8 to 0.5 and still the same.

I manage to print part of a print before, but it always clicked somehow, but now its even worst.

Im using the Duet 2 Maestro with the latest 2.03 build.

From my search, i understand i would need 2 tools for the different pins, but does anyone know about a crimping tool that would work for both ferrules and the molex kk that come with the duet 2 maestro?
Want to avoid having 2 tools if there is 1 that could work for both.

@snoozer im gonna use a spare e3d v6.1 i think...the ones used on the original prusa...got a spare one hehe

After much thought and some more research, i decided to go 24v instead of mains (220v).

For both safety and the simplicity of everything.

The RSP-500-24 will do just fine, as i found that is used on the lulzbot taz 6wich used a silicone heated bed rated at 360w.
The heated bed will probably be the same as the taz 6.

Difference in price from one way to the other is around 25€ and i much prefer paying a bit extra for the simplicity of the system.

Tks everyone for the input on the matter.

@snoozer Yes it comes from RatRig, should be shipped next week i think hehe.
Could you link me to those cables?

@deckingman i have researched, and besides the dangerous bit on working with 220v its the part that if the SSR fails closed it will not have a way to stop that worries me the most.
I know that we can order silicone heaters with bimetallic switch to stop this but i dont like the idea of it being built in the heated bed.
I would prefer something that i could exchange if it goes "kaput" (dont know the life span on them) instead of exchanging all the heated bed.

I do have a way of doing it with a different method of cutting the power to the bed, but dont know anyone that has used it.

https://www.tindie.com/products/JasonKits/3d-printer-guard-protect-your-printer-from-fire/

In short, its a standalone circuit that shuts off the printer (or whatever is connected to it) to prevent a fire hazzard.
It can monitor 2 hot ends and 1 heated bed.

As anyone tried something similar?

As i understand i would need a SSR and a heavy duty relay NC.

@dc42 never tought about turning down the voltage a bit, tks for that appreciate it.
And about the 600w from filafarm? Any opinion on that?

@Phaedrux printer will remain in the office, so probably wont be a problem.

I have been researching a lot about this as i dont to buy something not suitable and only find that its not enough for my needs.
Im planing my build of a coreXY printer (V-Core from RatRig) and to use it with a Duet 2 Maestro.
Originally the plan was to use an AC silicone heater but due to the dangerous of working directly with it, i want to settle with 24v, and this is where it gets a bit tricky.

Now i calculate +/- the power usage from the components and have got it rounded up to 75w, plus 360w from a 24v silicone heated bed. That sums up to 435w.
Adding 20% headroom gives me 522w.

My problem is getting a suitable and reliable power supply for this.

I got 2 ways of doing this and i would want peoples opinion to help me decide, and see if it makes sense.

Powering everything with 1 power supply using one of the power supplys bellow:

RSP-500-24 (would 504w be enough?) - https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/MEAN-WELL/RSP-500-24?qs=%2Fha2pyFaduiVs6X1Nelm9kKSIbOuTXswMRLDgce%252ByWC%2FKcvhXTMfqQ%3D%3D

https://www.filafarm.de/collections/elektronik/products/netzteil-ip45?variant=37225080206

Or going with a 300w silicone heated bed and using 2 power supply and this:

https://www.reprap.me/power-expander.html

Im open to suggestions on other routes i can take.