@Diamondback When you say V4 are you referring about the v3 product on the website that's revision 3.0? The software calls v4 in gcode which is really v3.0 but the fourth revision because of 1.7, 1.7a, 1.7b, then 3.0?
Or is a new filament monitor v4 on the way?
@dc42 my bowden tube is 5 feet long from the magnetic v1 sensor to the orbiter extruder. It's a delta printer so that's really as close as I can get it. I am just now testing my v1 after years of it collecting dust as we speak.
@dc42 With the new v3 is it accurate enough that I could go through 4 rolls on a single print without any errors?
Installed duet magnetic filament monitor v1.7 I had laying around and hooked it up to io_4. on a duet 3 mainboard 6hc. Pretty sure I had the wires hooked up in the correct pins. When I gave power to my printer the led would flash red and green on the filament monitor. I then put
M591 D0 P3 C"io4.in+io4.out" R40:120 E3.0 S1; in config.g
It asked if I wanted to reset the board and I said yes. Then I lost communication to the board via browser. I had to plug in the board with usb connected to yats and I can then get on web control but when I look at my config.g file its empty. My macros and jobs are still present. What happened? I have a backup config.g I could copy and past but wanted to ask first. Ip is still the same also when I looked on yats.
@dc42 The wires I had on the molex kk are 18 ga found here. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KCPKTQM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
They fit perfectly in the connector insulation and all. I spent a lot of money getting a different color for each connection. I'm sure 18ga was prob overkill but its a long connection, a heated chamber and it gave me other benefits. It is a premium wire on my printer other than a subpar ribbon cable. Everything was just fine!
The wire I tried to get on the jst ph are even a high ga being 22 found here. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01K4RPC4M/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
So how was I going to get that 18 ga on the jst ph when the 22 does not even fit properly in the crimp connections to crimp down on the insulation like its designed? You just said the same wires would typically crimp.
Now your telling me that it is easier to crimp a ph connection that's half the size of a molex kk?
Don't get me wrong, using the smart effector is 1,000x better than using a sheet of paper adjusting the end stops all the time back in 2013 on my crappy Rostock max. But let's not go backwards here. I can try using an even higher gauge but it looks like 24 will not even fit in that...
@dc42 2nd time a wire has broke with the JST PH. IMO at this point the Molex kk was a way better connector than these thin fragile wires that are even harder to crimp. I never had any problems with the tendency to become disconnected on the Molex kk. This is torture, fix this asap please. I can't be the only one.
It was the G10 bed on the mic6.... going to use 3M 468MP and tape it down see if I get better results. Thanks for the help everyone...
This is the height map with the mic6 and the printbite
@Phaedrux
I believe I'm back in business... Thanks
M552 gave me the new iP so let me try that
before any of that I found another usb cord and got it to read in yat.
m552 s1
ok<LF>
m115
FIRMWARE_NAME: RepRapFirmware for Duet 3 MB6HC FIRMWARE_VERSION: 3.4.4 ELECTRONICS: Duet 3 MB6HC v1.01 FIRMWARE_DATE: 2022-10-20 16:19:01<LF>ok<LF>
In device manager under universal serial bus controllers I get the usb to show thier but it says Unknown USB device(device descriptor request failed).
How do I know if the bossa port is listed?
I tried updating firmware to 3.4.4 from 3.2.0 and it failed i believe. I uploaded Duet2and3Firmware-3.4.4.zip on the system page to upload system files. It uploaded all files then it says Reset firmware? and over that it says Please wait while updates are being installed. I waited for a half hour and nothing happened. I cant click on anything. So I opened up another web browser to the ip and that wont connect. I restarted the power to my printer and same result.
Tried connecting via usb but does not recognize properly like it used to so I tried to update the firmware with windows drive file and that didn't work.
So I was going to do fallback procedure #1 but even that seems confusing with step 2,3,4.
Where do I start and why did this update fail. Really disappointed.
I did some tests and I don't think it matters if you g28 or not. However I tired to update the firmware to 3.4.4 and that failed. Now I ran into a nightmare and cant connect via web browser. Last time I updated it went smooth however the time before that was a nightmare as well. So that's why I was running an old firmware and I regret attempting it again. Im going to make a new post in firmware installation.
BED.G
; generated by RepRapFirmware Configuration Tool v3.2.3 on Sun Feb 28 2021 07:03:53 GMT-0600 (Central Standard Time)
M561 ; clear any bed transform
; bed.g file for RepRapFirmware, generated by Escher3D calculator
; 16 points, 6 factors, probing radius: 215, probe offset (0, 0)
G28
G30 P0 X0.00 Y215.00 Z-99999 H0
G30 P1 X138.20 Y164.70 Z-99999 H0
G30 P2 X211.73 Y37.33 Z-99999 H0
G30 P3 X186.20 Y-107.50 Z-99999 H0
G30 P4 X73.53 Y-202.03 Z-99999 H0
G30 P5 X-73.53 Y-202.03 Z-99999 H0
G30 P6 X-186.20 Y-107.50 Z-99999 H0
G30 P7 X-211.73 Y37.33 Z-99999 H0
G30 P8 X-138.20 Y164.70 Z-99999 H0
G30 P9 X0.00 Y107.50 Z-99999 H0
G30 P10 X93.10 Y53.75 Z-99999 H0
G30 P11 X93.10 Y-53.75 Z-99999 H0
G30 P12 X0.00 Y-107.50 Z-99999 H0
G30 P13 X-93.10 Y-53.75 Z-99999 H0
G30 P14 X-93.10 Y53.75 Z-99999 H0
G30 P15 X0 Y0 Z-99999 S6
;Z-PROBEZ-PROBEZ-PROBEZ-PROBEZ-PROBEZ-PROBEZ-PROBEZ-PROBEZ-PROBEZ-PROBEZ-PROBEZ-PROBE
M558 P8 R0.6 C"io3.in+io3.out" H5 F900 T4500 ; set Z probe type to effector and the dive height + speeds
G31 P100 X0 Y0 Z-.1 ; set Z probe trigger value, offset and trigger height
M557 R215 S25 ; define mesh grid
drives
M92 X640.00 Y640.00 Z640.00 E685.00 ; set steps per mm
M566 X900.00 Y900.00 Z12.00 E300.00 ; set maximum instantaneous speed changes (mm/min)
M203 X12000.00 Y12000.00 Z12000.00 E7200.00 ; set maximum speeds (mm/min)
M201 X1000.00 Y1000.00 Z50.00 E3000.00 ; set accelerations (mm/s^2)
Starting Script
;*********************************** RED HEATING UP ********************************************
M106 P4 S0.0 ; Turn off white led
M106 P5 S1.0 ; Turn on red led
M106 P6 S0.0 ; Turn off green led
M106 P7 S0.0 ; Turn off blue led
;*************************************************************************************************
G21 ; Set Units to Millimeters
G90 ; Set to Absolute Positioning
M82 ; Set extruder to absolute mode
G28 ; Home
M400 ; Finish all moves above first
M104 S140 ; Set extruder temperature
M141 H2 S75 ; Set chamber radiator temperature
;M141 H2 S35 ; Set chamber recirc temperature *not in use at this time
M191 P75 ; Wait for chamber temperature to reach target temp
M109 S140 ; Wait for extruder temperature to reatch target temp
M400 ; Finish all moves above firrst
;********************************** PURPLE * PRE HEATED and START CALI * **************************
M106 P7 S1.0 ; Turn on blue to make purple
;**************************************************************************************************
G32 ; Auto Calibration
M500 ; Save Calibration
G28 ; Home
G29 ; Mesh Comprensation
M400 ; Finish all moves above first
;********************************** ORANGE Achieve final temps * ***********************************
M106 P6 S0.06 ; Turn on green led 6% to make orange
M106 P7 S0.0 ; Turn off blue
;*************************************************************************************************
M104 S[extruder0_temperature] T0 ; Set extruder temperature
M109 S[extruder0_temperature] T0 ; Set extruder temperature to first layer temp
M400 ; Finish all moves above first
;*********************************** WHITE * START PRINT* *****************************************
M106 P4 S1.0 ; Turn on white led
M106 P5 S0.0 ; Turn off red led
M106 P6 S0.0 ; Turn off green led
M106 P7 S0.0 ; Turn off blue led
;**************************************************************************************************
U shape height map gives small width size
Normal height map gives normal print size
So the U shape height map seems new. I still get decent first layers on both height maps. Using a 1.2 mm nozzle is prob why. I have had this printer for a while now and never really seen a map that bad. What I changed to my printer recently was the g10 bed on top of the mic6. Normally I used Printbite. Had to replace the smart effector so now I have the new version on with the small JST PH connector that I hate. I also replaced the carriages with a 3d printed design of mine. New belts.
The fact that the height map is every other is what's blowing my mind and I cant figure out. U shape then normal. U Shape then normal. Everything I listed above that I changed is a fixed position. Could it be the smart effector?
So I started printing another part that bolts to the endcap and I'm getting the same results. So that's three different files giving the same results of errors. I Then just started printing the first layer and seeing how the holes for the bolts line up. I observed every other print is giving me the small width then it would go back to normal. It is height map related and here are my results. What would cause this to go back and forth giving me a decent height map then a really bad one. Does not matter if the printer is warmed up to the desired print temp and then started or just sat warming up for 30 mins. I am still using the old version 3.2.0. updating that is my next step when I get more time this weekend. look how consistent the max deviation is every other attempt to print using the same gcode.
Probing radius: 215 mm
Probe area: 1452.2 cm²
Maximum deviations: -0.396 / 1.690 mm
Mean error: 0.103 mm
RMS error: 0.472 mm
result is small width
printed right when warmed up
Number of points: 233
Probing radius: 215 mm
Probe area: 1452.2 cm²
Maximum deviations: -0.163 / 0.262 mm
Mean error: 0.043 mm
RMS error: 0.063 mm
result is normal width
printed 30min after warmed up
Number of points: 233
Probing radius: 215 mm
Probe area: 1452.2 cm²
Maximum deviations: -0.339 / 1.737 mm
Mean error: 0.153 mm
RMS error: 0.465 mm
result is small width
printed 60min after warmed up
Number of points: 233
Probing radius: 215 mm
Probe area: 1452.2 cm²
Maximum deviations: -0.283 / 0.244 mm
Mean error: -0.067 mm
RMS error: 0.125 mm
result is normal width
printed 60 min after warmed up
Number of points: 233
Probing radius: 215 mm
Probe area: 1452.2 cm²
Maximum deviations: -0.482 / 1.608 mm
Mean error: 0.093 mm
RMS error: 0.461 mm
result is small width
printed 60 mins after warmed up
I use big nozzles all the time up to 1.2mm. What does the part look like in your slicer? Thats what it looks like if you have thin walls or sharp corners. How thick is your wall? If the part wall is to thin it might not slice all the way to the end of your corner on your part.
Also use layer height at .4 for better prints. Raise your extruder temp as well because your prob printing faster than you can melt your plastic in the nozzle. I use 250c on a volcano with a 8mm nut extension and a cht nozzle.
My .8 nozzle settings.
extrusion width .96
retract 2mm
lift .8
retract speed 36000
coasting distance .8
wipe distance 5mm