Thanks for all the input! I'm hoping to have time tonight to do some investigating finally, so I'll update my results then! Thanks again!
Latest posts made by MobiusOne
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RE: Heater Fault when Starting Print
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Heater Fault when Starting Print
Hello all,
So I rustled through previous posts and one post appeared to come close (This one) but I don't think it was the exact same issue (plus I didn't see anything from the originator on a solution).
I just replaced the Mightyboard on my FlashForge Creator Pro with a Duet 2 Maestro board. I didn't change out the K-Type Thermocouples on the hot end so I ordered a daughterboard for the Maestro. I labeled all wires, followed the wiring diagrams exactly, and made sure to even wind stepper wire pairs to minimize EMF noise to the Thermocouple cables. Post replacement, I can set temperatures for my hot end on both extruders without a problem. The issue arises, however, when I go to start a job. When the gcode file is loaded, the bed heats up, the hot end(s) heat up, all with no problem, but as soon as the print starts (and it looks like it completes the homing procedure with no problem), ONLY extruder two faults by going to 2000C and I get a message saying that the wire is shorted. I checked the wiring and to my eye, nothing appears shorted from the daughterboard onward to the thermocouple. I would think that if there was a short, it would appear immediately upon trying to heat the hot end up.
Some things to note:
- It's only extruder 1 thermocouple being affected.
- The wiring for the thermocouple is grouped with the extruder 0 thermocouple, the hot end fans, hot end heaters, and both sets of extruder stepper wires.
- The printer can process a hot end purge on extruder 0 prior to the failure, which tells me the signal from the stepper motor doesn't appear to be affecting the thermocouple signal.
- I tried two different slicers to make sure it wasn't a slicer issue (Simplify3D V5 vs Cura 5.1.0) but same issue both times.
- Investigating gcode didn't seem to point to anything glaring but I'm not sure.
Has anyone had any issues like this and have you found a solution?
I'm currently working 6a-6p so I will update any requests for information as I can, but I figured I could still get the ball rolling for some insight. Any help is appreciated! I do also have some stepper noise during motion that wasn't there before the board swap but I'm not as worried about that.
Currently my worst case scenario for this is that during my next down time if I still haven't had any success, I may look into replacing the K-Type Thermocouple with regular thermistors. Less finicky and a better plug-and-play option for the Duet, but I already have the thermocouples installed and ready to go so naturally I'd like to try and get that working.
Thanks again for any help I can get!
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RE: Cyclic Z-Step Issue
Thanks for the input! I'll take a gander when I get home. Going to be reprinting this item again due to other issues that arose so I'll have time to check all these items as well.
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RE: Cyclic Z-Step Issue
Hey all! So I come back with a question. I'm seeing the same issue, however it's not nearly as frequent. Picture shows the frequency. The bed is rock steady at 60C with PID control. Same process used for whole print too (sliced in Simplify3D). Any input is appreciated! Seems like a temperature thing but unsure.
Photo: https://ibb.co/gRj3yp -
RE: Cyclic Z-Step Issue
Gents! Bang-Bang was definitely the culprit. I ran a PID calibration and tuning today and then redid my 3D benchy and the issue was gone completely! I thank you for your input as it was a very quick fix and got me back to my original rambo quality + a little extra. Now I just need to fine tune some things with the rest of the printer and I should be at max quality! Here is the before and after adjustment; night and day difference! https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10156400087908673&set=a.437377588672&type=3&theater
If you have any additional input to other little tuning suggestions based on the print quality, I'd love to hear them! I already know that retraction will have to be adjusted for the stringing, probably a coast for that back left corner build-up (I use a fixed location for each starting layer to minimize surface blemishes), and increase top layer thickness as I have small gaps, but some of the random blemishes have me a little curious. You can see one on the good quality boat near center-middle. That and one half of the arches/circles come out clean while the other half come out somewhat unsightly (left/right halves, not top/bottom halves). Heck, that could be all a product of where I have the fixed starting point! More testing tomorrow -
RE: Cyclic Z-Step Issue
@phaedrux Here is my config file
I am indeed using bang-bang mode. Would that have this effect though? That seems pretty intense of an effect for the prints, unless bang-bang mode is affecting the head's heating/movement?; Configuration file for Duet WiFi (firmware version 1.21)
; executed by the firmware on start-up
;
; generated by RepRapFirmware Configuration Tool on Sun Sep 23 2018 14:52:19 GMT-0400 (Eastern Daylight Time); General preferences
G21 ; Work in millimeters
G90 ; Send absolute coordinates...
M83 ; ...but relative extruder moves
M555 P1 ; Set firmware compatibility to look like RepRapFirmare;*** The homed height is deliberately set too high in the following - you will adjust it during calibration.
M665 R139.7 L300 B139.7 H361 ; Set delta radius, diagonal rod length, printable radius and homed height
M666 X0 Y0 Z0 ; Put your endstop adjustments here, or let auto calibration find them; Network
M550 PRostock Max V2 ; Set machine name
M552 S1 ; Enable network
;*** Access point is configured manually via M587
M586 P0 S1 ; Enable HTTP
M586 P1 S0 ; Disable FTP
M586 P2 S0 ; Disable Telnet; Drives
M569 P0 S1 ; Drive 0 goes forwards
M569 P1 S0 ; Drive 1 goes backwards (compensation for wiring)
M569 P2 S1 ; Drive 2 goes forwards
M569 P3 S1 ; Drive 3 goes forwards
M350 X16 Y16 Z16 E16 I1 ; Configure microstepping with interpolation
M92 X80 Y80 Z80 E91.725 ; Set steps per mm (originally E663)
M566 X1200 Y1200 Z1200 E1200 ; Set maximum instantaneous speed changes (mm/min)
M203 X18000 Y18000 Z18000 E1200 ; Set maximum speeds (mm/min)
M201 X1000 Y1000 Z1000 E1000 ; Set accelerations (mm/s^2)
M906 X1000 Y1000 Z1000 E800 I30 ; Set motor currents (mA) and motor idle factor in per cent
M84 S30 ; Set idle timeout; Axis Limits
M208 Z0 S1 ; Set minimum Z; Endstops
M574 X2 Y2 Z2 S1 ; Set active high endstops; Z-Probe
M558 P4 H5 F120 T15000 ; Set Z probe type to switch and the dive height + speeds
G31 P100 X0 Y0 Z-0.2 ; Set Z probe trigger value, offset and trigger height
M557 R139.7 S20 ; Define mesh grid; Heaters
M305 P0 T100000 B4138 C0 R4700 ; Set thermistor + ADC parameters for heater 0
M143 H0 S120 ; Set temperature limit for heater 0 to 120C
M305 P1 T100000 B4138 C0 R4700 ; Set thermistor + ADC parameters for heater 1
M143 H1 S280 ; Set temperature limit for heater 1 to 280C; Fans
M106 P0 S1 I0 F500 H1 T45 ; Set fan 0 value, PWM signal inversion and frequency. Thermostatic control is turned on
M106 P1 S1 I0 F500 H1 T45 ; Set fan 1 value, PWM signal inversion and frequency. Thermostatic control is turned on
M106 P2 S1 I0 F500 H1 T45 ; Set fan 2 value, PWM signal inversion and frequency. Thermostatic control is turned on; Tools
M563 P0 D0 H1 ; Define tool 0
G10 P0 X0 Y0 Z0 ; Set tool 0 axis offsets
G10 P0 R0 S0 ; Set initial tool 0 active and standby temperatures to 0C; Automatic saving after power loss is not enabled
; Custom settings are not configured
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RE: Cyclic Z-Step Issue
Don't think the photos posted... try these links instead!
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10156397645828673&set=pcb.10156397646498673&type=3&theater
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10156397645858673&set=pcb.10156397646498673&type=3&theater
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10156397645893673&set=pcb.10156397646498673&type=3&theater -
Cyclic Z-Step Issue
Hello all! I've been trying to find some good information about an issue I'm having, and it doesn't seem like anyone has experienced exactly what I'm dealing with, so I figured I would start a new topic on it. After installing my new DuetWifi on my Rostock MAX V2 this past weekend (along with a PanelDue 7i, JohnSL FSRs, and TrickLaser Carbon Rods), I ran some print tests and, while I worked out some bugs, there is one that won't go away. Every so often, my layer will act like it was squished and print slightly larger than it should, then go back (somewhat) to normal. It will do this on almost every Xth layer(s), and did NOT do this before the upgrade. I thought it might be extruder stepping needing calibration, but I just calibrated that down to about 99% accuracy and the issue is still prominent (albeit a little less than it was before the extruder calibration).
Has anyone experienced this after an upgrade and, if so, what was your solution? Normally I wouldn't be as buggered by it but I have people queued for prints and while I appreciate their patience while I upgrade/troubleshoot, I am sure they won't want to wait forever I'll be more than happy to upload any information required, and have also included a photo that depicts what I am seeing. I've read in other places that it could be mechanical but I feel that pertains more to Cartesian printers and not Deltas, and I'm less inclined to believe that is the cause since it wasn't doing this before the upgrade.
Any help would be super appreciated!!! Thank you in advance!!!!
If you have trouble seeing the photos, let me know and I'll upload them somewhere else.