Posts made by mihaitintea

Here's a photo of my board:

This topic is highly discretely disguised Illuminati s*&t we're dealing with here. People, do you not see how so many posts incline to the side of going-to-monthly-forfeit-part-of-my-revenues-for-software ?

Hello

I have the Duet2 Wifi with 2.05 firmware:

Board: Duet WiFi 1.02 or later
Firmware: RepRapFirmware for Duet 2 WiFi/Ethernet 2.05 (2019-12-13b1)
Duet WiFi Server Version: 1.23

After heating the hotend, I still cannot click on the screen on the "Retract" button because that button is disabled. I have to revert back to DWC1 in order to have an enabled "Retract" button displayed in the web interface.

Is this a bug ?

Regards
Mihai

I have a custom built delta printer with the latest Duet2Wifi board avec Duex5, running the latest RRF 2.x.

I use the latest Cura 4 for slicing.

If I do the RRF2 -> RRF3 upgrade for these boards (Duet2Wifi avec Duex5) , will the GCode generatedf by Cura 4 still work on my delta printer, or do I have to look for another slicing software ?

I searched [ the Internet] for the 3D CAD model for the AnyCubic Kossel Linear Plus frame - the #1 important thing for me was keeping unmodified the bed diameter. The #2nd important thing was the type of the tower rails - specifically, their thickness. You have to decide what you should keep [inherit] from the old printer when creating a new printer.
Also you must find online the CAD models for the Delta Smart Effector.

Using a CAD program to edit ensemble frame+effector, I kept the following elements as unmodifiable :
- the bed diameter = 240 mm, as I absolutely did not want to order a new heated bed -- that was inherited from the Kossel Plus printer -- that is important since such a bed is kinda hard to find -- well, maybe not that hard if you are willing to wait for another 2-ish months of waiting for the Chinese guys to ship
- the tower rails -- those are the [noname] MGN12H rails that came with the Anycubic Kossel Linear Plus printer -- they are kinda easier to find from a retailer closer to you, not necessarily China only.

Eventually I designed my own custom frame using custom 2060 extruded aluminium frames for the towers. That required custom-designed delta corners, as I wanted to keep my 240mm bed.

That is an chicken-and-egg problem.

I had to keep alive and running the original Chinese Kossel printer to print all the necessary parts, until I was sure that I am well beyond the no-going-back point. Because once I decide to dismantle the Chinese Kossel printer, I cannot be sure, not in 1000 lives, that reassembling it would result in something that would print 1+1=2. Because China. So, the printer upgrade process is one-way.

OK so using the CAD program I calculated that I need 288.14 mm Haydn arms.

Then I went shopping online for such custom-sized Haydn arms.

Most offers I've seen online were for pre-built 360 mm Haydn arms, but that was not good for me because:

• arms longer than 288.14 mm will worsen my delta printer precision
• also arms longer than 288.14 mm will lower my printable height too much, should I have towers' height restrictions;
• arms shorter that 288.14 mm will shorten my printable diameter too much below 240 mm.

So if you are into building your custom delta, you have to find a way to get precise-built rods. Haydn arms are precise-built. My 6 Haydn arms were shipped like so:

• 4 arms of 288.14 mm
• 2 arms of 288.15 mm

So 0.01 mm difference, that is really close to perfection.

If I would've tried to build my custom arms, chances are that I would've made mistakes that would've been led me to rebuilding the arms again and again -- eventually leading to an overall cost much greater than what I would accept.

The original Duet Delta Smart Effector ships with and e3d v6 0.4 mm hotend.

The migration path from the e3d v6 to a e3d volcano is easy. You keep the Duet Delta Smart Effector PCB. You just have to sacrifice 1-ish centimeter reduction in printing height.

My final configuration is as follows:

• original 240 mm heated bed inherited from Anycubic Kossel Plus printer
• custom frame with custom 3d-printed delta corners
• custom-length Haydn arms (4 x 288.14 mm + 2 x 288.15 mm)
• Two Duet Delta Smart Effector: a) first one for e3d v6 0.4 mm hotend, and b) second one with e3d volcano 0.8 mm.
• Duet 3D wifi motherboard
• Duetx5 (I want to add separate dedicated flying extruders for each of my two hotends)

Regards

My 2 cents: if you try to build the rods yourself and do not obtain quality and precision then you will be tempted to try again maybe once or twice, eventually the total cost may be bigger than buying Haydn's in the first place. Plus the wasted time.

Same if you purchase cheaper noname rods.

Haydn rods happen to be something that many users purchased and then never complained about quality/precision, that tells that you can't go wrong with Haydn.

My Haydns are within 0.01 mm difference, that says a lot.

Unless you plan buying Haydn rods every week, the expense is somehow a one-time-and-never-have-to-do-it-again thing, so the price tag is well justified.

Regards

Hello

If I run the python file and generate the PA test gcode file, I see that it contains G1 Xxxxx Yyyyy Eeeee commands whose E values are very large, e.g.:

G1 X-47.400 Y3.200 E15.7653

whereas if I look into any gcode file generated by Cura, I only see very small E values in the G1 commands, e.g.:

G1 X9.063 Y1.1 E0.16886

Why does this happen, and how can I safely run/print the generated PA test gcode file ? (i.e., won't my extruder/hotend be blown up because of such enormous E values in the G1 commands ?)

Regards
Mihai

@Dugee said in Help on "Calibrating_a_delta_printer" wiki:

e you

Helo,

Please let me rummage those last several posts for about 24 hours, until I am confident I understood them correctly, then I will come back to this forum with feedback. Thank you so much for input !

Truly yours

@Dugee said in Help on "Calibrating_a_delta_printer" wiki:

type of probe you ha

Hello,

I think key is what you said: "I didn't need to edit the homedelta file at all" -- I actualy stripped the homedelta.g file down to a single G90 instruction, because that is what I understood from the wiki. But if you successfully calibrated even if the homedelta.g contains all the instructions that the configurator tool seeded, then I guess I'll go your way.

So:

I know it is pretty subjective, but can you tell me how hard should the nozzle pin the sheet of paper down to the heatbed after several G1 Z-0.05's but before I execute G92 Z0 ?

• I have the genuine Delta Smart Effector as a hotend/Zprobe.

• you said "the recommendation on the forum is that you run autocalibration until you get an acceptable deviation", does that mean I run G32 three/four/five times in a row ?

Here is what happened just now after five-in-a-row G32's:

Calibrated 8 factors using 16 points, deviation before 0.063 after 0.021
Calibrated 8 factors using 16 points, deviation before 0.033 after 0.019
Calibrated 8 factors using 16 points, deviation before 0.032 after 0.022
Calibrated 8 factors using 16 points, deviation before 0.025 after 0.016
Calibrated 8 factors using 16 points, deviation before 0.027 after 0.015

Discarding the first two, the last three seem to converge. Should I do a M500 now ? Does "0.015" seem good ?

My bed.g has height corrections. That is, my entire bed.g is listed below (my g31 in the config.g is "G31 P100 X0 Y0 Z-0.2")

;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;
G28
; bed.g file for RepRapFirmware, generated by Escher3D calculator
; 16 points, 8 factors, probing radius: 95, probe offset (0, 0)
G30 P0 X0.00 Y95.00 Z-99999 H0.92
G30 P1 X61.06 Y72.77 Z-99999 H0.79
G30 P2 X93.56 Y16.50 Z-99999 H0.6
G30 P3 X82.27 Y-47.50 Z-99999 H0.37
G30 P4 X32.49 Y-89.27 Z-99999 H0.5
G30 P5 X-32.49 Y-89.27 Z-99999 H0.74
G30 P6 X-82.27 Y-47.50 Z-99999 H0.87
G30 P7 X-93.56 Y16.50 Z-99999 H0.9
G30 P8 X-61.06 Y72.77 Z-99999 H0.84
G30 P9 X0.00 Y47.50 Z-99999 H0.34
G30 P10 X41.14 Y23.75 Z-99999 H0.21
G30 P11 X41.14 Y-23.75 Z-99999 H0.12
G30 P12 X0.00 Y-47.50 Z-99999 H0.19
G30 P13 X-41.14 Y-23.75 Z-99999 H0.32
G30 P14 X-41.14 Y23.75 Z-99999 H0.4
G30 P15 X0 Y0 Z-99999 S8
g29
g91
g1 S1 x300 y300 z300 f2000
G1 S2 X-5 Y-5 Z-5 F250
g90

;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;

I have a 3 mm (I think) Aluminum heated bed.

I use paint masking tape on top of it.

The heightmap varies horribly. It is -0.2 mm at the center and +0.7 mm on the circumference.

I already ordered a Borosilicate glass, as I believe that even if I may still have a bed tilt, at least the bed will be "plane" and not "spherical". Right now it looks as if it "holds water".

Metal delta corners do not exist yet for my frame (2060 profiles "tangent" to the circumference -- all I see for sale online is "2040 radial" corners, which do not have any stiffness at all)

Best regards

Hi

Sorry to ask a n00b question. I have 2.04RC1 and I do not clearly understand what files to download from https://github.com/dc42/RepRapFirmware/releases/tag/2.04RC3 and how to upload them.

Best regards
Mihai

Hello

Please I need help for a better understanding of the "Calibrating_a_delta_printer" wiki page.

The procedure is not quite clear to me. I fail trying to follow it step-by-step because it is not clear to me at what moment I need to modify the bed.g file, or the config.g file, or the homedelta.g file, and when to reboot (or not !) the printer after such modifications. Also, is bed.g essential or is it obsolete ?

For instance:

1. At the "Homing the machine" section

• I understand that I have to edit the homedelta.g file so that it contains just a single G90 command.
  OK but after I do that, the printer rejects any movement commands I give, saying that the axes have not been homed. I cannot home the axes, an error message says that the homing has failed.

2. At the "Measuring the trigger height" section.

• It says "4.Command the print head to the XY coordinates you want to probe".

How do I do that, the printer says that the position I ordered cannot be reached.

3. After eventually executing the G30 S-1 command and reading the trigger height on screen

• OK so I update the G31 in the config.g file, do I need to restore the original homedelta.g file and reboot the printer ?

The examples could continue but this post is already too long.

I also seem to fail understanding the following:

• the difference between G32 and G32 S2. Do I ever want to execute G32 S2 ?
• the difference between G28 and manually executing "G1 S1 X300 Y300 Z300". I understand that G28 should not be executed after G32, but can I execute "G1 S1 X300 Y300 Z300" without spoiling the effects of G32 ?

Please can you help.

Thanks a lot in advance.

Dear Sir,

Thank you so much for the detailed explanation. That kind of knowledge is either gathered from advice as you provided (truly kindly and for free), or hard-learned through -- hopefully not ! -- unfortunate experiences. Fire risk is something that should be taken seriously and thoroughly adviced by whoever is selling whatever may expose buyers to it -- including Amp-consuming devices such as 3D printers.

Many thanks and wish you the best.

Truly yours
Mihai

Hello

Thanks for the answers but I believe I did not make myself very well understood.

The ferrule connectors that I am talking about are already crimped to the wires, from the factory.

I was talking about tightening the ferrule connectors into the Duet3D board terminal blocks.

The out-of-the-box ferrule connector is a hollow tube. One end of this tube is factory-crimped to the wire, and the other end of this tube is free and goes into Duet's terminal blocks.

Do I tighten this free end of the tube in the Duet board's terminal block until the tube gets mechanically deformed ? Or do I do the flattening myself (e.g., using pliers) until the connector gets shaped as a flat rectangle, and put that flattened end of the connector in Duet's terminal blocks and then tighten those screws ?

Which way is best ? In time, which of these variants is the most reliable (i.e., does not need to be pereiodically verified and tightened again)

Thanks and regards

But how do I correctly fit those ferruled connectors into the terminals ? Do I flatten them first with pliers before putting them into the terminals and tighten the terminals' screws, or do I put the ferruled connectors as they originally are ("cylindrical", not mechanically deformed -- flattened) into the teminals and force-screw the terminals's screws until they mechanically flatten the ferruled connectors ?

Hello

I want to easily swap between an E3D V6 0.4 mm and an E3D Volcano 0.8 mm, in my delta printer.

I do not want to disassemble the print head, or to unplug anything from the Duet board, when I want to do such a swap. For this reason I purchased duplicates for every component used to build a print head: Delta Smart Effector with magballs, bowden extruder with motor, PTFE tubing, temperature sensors, E3D kit, and I built separate duplicate cabling for everything.

All cables for both sets of Effector+Extrudercould be left simultaneously attached to the Duet board, permanently, since the Duet board has multiple slots which could be simultaneously occupied.

The only shortcoming in this is that the Z-Probe connector on the Duet board is unique, and therefore this is the only place where I could be forced to physically swap the cables, although a method with multiple mechanical 2-state switches could be thought of.

When swapping between the two Delta Smart Effectors, I would just reconfig the config.g file and reboot.

That is, for instance, this is how I define some of the setting in config.g (there are more but here are just a few):

M569 P0 S1 ; Physical drive 0 goes forwards (42BYGHM810)
M569 P1 S1 ; Physical drive 1 goes forwards (42BYGHM810)
M569 P2 S1 ; Physical drive 2 goes forwards (42BYGHM810)
;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;
M569 P3 S0 ; Physical drive 3 extruder 0 goes backwards
M569 P4 S1 ; Physical drive 4 extruder 1 goes forwards

M350 X16 Y16 Z16 E16:16 I1 ; Configure microstepping with interpolation

M92 X200 Y200 Z200 E436.8:438 ; Set steps per mm

M566 X1200.00 Y1200.00 Z1200.00 E1200.00:1200.00 ; Set maximum instantaneous speed changes (mm/min)
M203 X18000.00 Y18000.00 Z18000.00 E1200.00:1200.00 ; Set maximum speeds (mm/min)
M201 X3000 Y3000 Z3000 E3000:3000 ; Set accelerations (mm/s^2)
M906 X1900.00 Y1900.00 Z1900.00 E1900.00:1300.00 I60 ; Set motor currents (mA)

I use Cura 4 for slicing.

What I need help for:

• how to correctly define the tools in the config.g file of the Duet ?
• How to tell Cura that I have the hardware configuration like described above ?
• What custom gcode do I need to tell Cura to put at the beginning and at the end of the generated gcode ?

Thanks in advance

@dc42 Hello

I applied option C, I just hope I identified correctly the GND on the PT100 daughterboard, please can you confirm from the picture below ?

Thank you

Hello

There were no solar flares yesterday. The problem is that the nozzle of the Delta Smart Effector hits various micro-obstacles on the printed object. Since the existence of those micro-obstacles cannot be avoided, we need to "deafen" the PT100.

I believe the sensitivity of the PT100 mechanism can be lowered with one or two ceramic capacitors. However I am not sure how it would be best:

a) One single capacitor between the two middle pins of the four pins at the PT100 daughterboard level ? (My PT100 sensor is 2-wire)

b) One single capacitor between the two PT100 pins on the Delta Smart Effector at the Delta Smart Effector pcb level ?

c) Two capacitors on the PT100 daughterboard: first capacitor between one middle PT100 pin and the daughterboard's GND, and the second capacitor between the other middle PT100 pin and the daughterboard's GND ?

Please can you tell which variant you think would be best, and if the 10 nF capacity is OK for the variant thought as best ?

Thank you

This is in the 2-3 minutes right after last forum post. It looks like it is related to the nozzle tip ramming into some filament blobs (caused by imperfect filament flow, or variable filament quality)

I reset those H1 faults but it seems that every print session could be done only by manual human intervention every 5-10 minutes or so. Unless there is a way to lower the sensitivity which consists of the Delta Smart Effector board + the PT100 daughterboard + the PT100 sensor.

I am sure that the Duet firmware was designed to aid me to face the fire hazard -- who knows why a heater fault may occur ? -- but I see an additional reason for which all those "alien" heater H1 faults appear: the filament may not cost a ton of gold per spool. Which is perfectly the situation of 99.99 % of of the customers which buy the Duet board and the Delta Smart Effector.

That is why I need a way to tell the Duet board to ignore H1 heater faults unless those faults are 50% of the requested printing temperature, or worse.

Is there such a method to lower that PT100 chain sensitivity?

Thanks

The coating on my delta printer's frame segments does not conduct electricity, at least this is what my multimeter says.

The chassis of the X, Y, Z and E0 stepper motors are physically connected to mains earth (I've taken advice from this forum) --- assuming the GT2 belt generates some Coulombs which could generate confusion in the PT100-PT100 daughterboard-Duet2board chain.

I can't figure out a reasonable explanation for the fact that repeated H1 heater faults (4 or 5 in a row, when the Sun is not even visible at the horizon, so apparently there should not be any Sun flares) started after the first 2 hours of error-free printing.

Hi

After more than10 failed-and-resumed printing sessions of the same object (same object, needed to be printed 3 times. The 2 previous prints finished eventually, but the third copy seems to be needing Skynet approval)

I am getting those PT100 fluctuations, out of the blue:

Ths happens after 2 hours of solid non-stop printing of the same object. Since 2h1min forward. so to say, I got those PT100 fluctuations.

What should I do to get my objects printed, anything than printing them in slices and sticking then together with acetone/glue ?

Regards
M