@phaedrux said in Help with custom firmware settings for Rostock Max V2 upgrade:

@metallikahn said in Help with custom firmware settings for Rostock Max V2 upgrade:

throwing in a PT100 sensor for me

Don't forget that to use a PT100 you will need the daughter board.

Yep! Included in my first post. Just some of the many $ I've spent with Filastruder in the last couple weeks!

So, I'm working on getting my smart effector calibrated and I've been running into a few issues.

I'm currently running the 360mm Haydn magball arms and the standard v6 hotend (tried running ball cup arms before on a custom deisgned mount, but couldn't get it to work at all.) I've got a rostock max V2 maching and I've got a 309mm bed with plans to print out to about 305mm diameter.

Running the stock Bed.g file from the reprap configurator at 6 points and 3 inner points at 6 factors at 135mm radius and instantly got me down around 0.05-0.08 on the deviation. Good! I played around and increased it up to 10 outer, 6 inner, and 6 factors, and then filled in individual height corrections. Since doing so it seems like every probing gets progressively worse. Best I managed was a deviation around .22.

After eliminating a couple potential mechanical issues from the mix, things didn't improve. I went back to the stock bed file (10 spots at 135mm radius) and also applied 9 factor (just for the heck of it) and my deviation was .039! Ok... so maybe the outer bed is really screwing it up. I moved the radius out to 150mm and it calibrated at .023 on the deviation. Huh? I switched back to 6 factor, rebooted, (to clear out the 9 factor data)and it came out at .11. Moving back in to 135mm brought this back down to .088.

In the guide I know it said 6 factor was the best for a typical delta and that 7-9 factor was only useful if one could get outside the triangle of the towers. How far outside? At 150mm and 9 factor I seem to be getting good results. My diagonal rods are hand measured at 360.24mm. The 9 factor calibration reports back a diagonal of 372.020mm

Here are my current m665 after running my last g32.

1/13/2020, 3:27:18 PM	M666
Endstop adjustments X-1.88 Y-1.07 Z2.95, tilt X0.48% Y0.85%
1/13/2020, 3:26:26 PM	M665
Diagonals 372.020:372.020:372.020, delta radius 143.252, homed height 258.302, bed radius 137.0, X 0.659°, Y 0.060°, Z 0.000°
1/13/2020, 3:26:16 PM	G32
Calibrated 9 factors using 10 points, deviation before 0.122 after 0.023

Does this look right, given what I mentioned for spec's on my printer above? Or should I just call it good enough and print away?

I'm more than happy with .023 on the deviation (If that's accurate) as long as it gets me a nice first layer out to the edges of the bed for some of the larger prints I intend to do and stays dimensionally accurate doing so.

Thoughts?

Right on. Figured it'd be handy for a dual extrution, Just wanted to make sure I didn't have something set wrong there as well for regular single extrution set up.

Thanks a ton for the Quick responses, btw. Really helped me out!

Bingo! That was it. Not sure how I got those switched around on the board, but I did. I swapped the pins and then swapped the P0/P1 designations in the config.g and now it's working like it's suppose to.

Only Oddity I see now is that in web control it gives a separate fan control (tool fan) that appears whenever the extruder heater is engaged. As far as I can tell it's a copy of the print fan control, seeing as how they will mirror each other whenever either one is changed. Anyway to set it in the tool settings so it just identifies it as the "print fan" instead of creating a whole new useless fan control?

Hi all.

So I've been slowly getting my rostock back together and working with a duet2 wifi board and smart effector. I think I'm finally just about there, but I'm having issues getting the hotend fan to work correctly. As of right now, I have it wired correctly at the effector and running to the fan0 connection on the Duet2 WIFI. I also have it set to turn on at 100% when the hotend reaches 45C. This works exactly like it should. The problem starts when it goes to actually print. As soon as it finishes probing and begins to extrude filament the hotend fan will shutoff. Obviously this has let to more than one jam on me as I've been trying to figure this out.

I also don't believe it to be related to the slicer. I've used both simplify3d and cura. The only start Gcode I use in the slicers is literally:

G32
G29

At the moment I'm not running a print fan (long story, but basically I'm waiting on a berd airpump because I haven't been happy with anyof the other print fan solutions I've seen).

Here's my current config.g file. Am I just missing something super simple here or is it other issues? Any help would be great! Thanks.

     ; set Z probe trigger value, offset and trigger height
M557 R135 S40                                ; define mesh grid

; Heaters

M307 H0 B0                            	     ; enable bang-bang mode for the bed heater and set PWM limit
M305 P0 X201                                 ; configure PT100 for heater 1
M143 H0 S120                                 ; set temperature limit for heater 1 to 120C
M305 P1 X200                                 ; configure PT100 for heater 2
M143 H1 S310                                 ; set temperature limit for heater 2 to 310C

; Fans
M106 P0 C"Hotend Fan" S1 I0 F500 H2:2:1 T45   ; set fan 0 name, value, PWM signal inversion and frequency. Thermostatic control is turned on
M106 P1 C"Print Fan" S0.6 I0 F500 H-1        ; set fan 1 name, value, PWM signal inversion and frequency. Thermostatic control is turned off

; Tools
M563 P0 S"e3D V6" D0 H1 F0                   ; define tool 0
G10 P0 X0 Y0 Z0                              ; set tool 0 axis offsets
G10 P0 R0 S0                                 ; set initial tool 0 active and standby temperatures to 0C

; Custom settings are not defined

; Miscellaneous
M501                                         ; load saved parameters from non-volatile memory

Yep. It's more or less the thinned down machined version of the effector mount I printed. The Problem is the barbells are the same distance from the center of the hotend as what I've got. In order to get my full build plate without hitting the towers I need the barbells to be mounted the same distance from the hotend center as the mag balls would be mounted. With the way the smart effector is designed for the electrical connections, I would need to design a mount that puts the barbells far enough above to not interfer with the wiring, thus lowering the z height even further. If I mount the barbell underneath the effector then the arms hit the smart effector before they hit the tower.

The Magballs seem to be the best compromise between build area and height. I like the fact that the ballcups have the springs for backlash compensation and won't come unhooked during a print versus the mag ball arms. Would it be possible to get mag balls the same diameter as the balls on the Barbells and use the ballcup arms with the stock mounting location on the smart effector?

So, in my plan to upgrade, I decided to stay with the Rostock Max’s ballcup carriage/effector setup. One of my main goals in upgrading was to maximize my build area. I have a 310mm bed and with my old tricklaser/accelerometer setup I estimated I could build out to 304-305mm before the arms started clipping the towers/belts. (Though, my 290mm arms prevented me from getting there reliably)

I added longer, 340.5mm, carbonfiber arms made by SeeMeCNC and printed a smart effector ballcup adapter someone pointed out to me on thingiverse. The mount didn’t fit the newest version of the smart effector very well, so I modified it by adding some pillars. Not only did this allow the smart effector to fit, but I was able to raise it up enough to recover more Z height and contain the layer fans/wires nicely.

I mounted it up and discovered that due to the smart effector size and how the barbells have to matchup I actually lost build area! I’m now at around 290mm before the arms hit the towers.

So now I’m left scratching my head wondering what to do. If I go to mag arms I should recover enough to get back to my full build area, but at the risk of platform disconnects and a bigger loss of Z height (due to the longer arms and standard effector mount). I could design a new barbell mount, but it would need to mount above the effector to keep the maximum build area and it would need to be high enough to not interfere with the effector wiring, meaning even greater reduced z height, which is already bordering on the minimum height I’m willing to go to.

Are mag arms my only realistic way to increase build area with the smart effector, short of rebuilding the whole frame or sacrificing way to much z height?

Thanks for the response! Been hot out here the last few days so I haven't been getting much done on my upgrade. (Will probably be a few weeks before my custom bed heater arrives, so no big hurry, I guess).

The more I think about it, the more I'm leaning towards just running with the wires I have and running a couple new wires for the hot end heater. The wires I got are already the right size and run in separate bundles up the center of individual towers, making it easy to keep them isolated.

Should I run an additional 2 wires to turn my e3D PT-100 into a 4 wire connection? I saw how someone else accomplished this and it was basically putting a Y split on the 2 PT-100 wires. At that point it didn't look like it made a difference whether that split was done at the Smart effector or the daughterboard. Or is the Smart Effector essentialy handling the split in it it's circuit trace?

Should I leave it as a 2 wire connection all the way to the daughter board, would I need to solder/bridge the pads next to the PT-100 Connector on the smart effector that say "jumpered for 2 wire"?

At this point, It's not a lot of effort to run an extra 2 wires for the PT-100 with the 2 I already had to do that for. Is there really any appreciable benefit to doing so? (fwiw, the AC heating pad I have coming will have an integrated 4-wire pt-100 sensor all wired up and ready to go.)

Hi all! I'm currently in the process of Upgrading my Rostock Max V2 to a full duet, high precision Monster. I'm doing the Duet Wifi, Smart Effector, pt100 daughter board, 0.9 degree steppers in the towers, a 500 Watt AC Bed Heater (SSR controlled) and a full 24V upgrade for everything else.

I Just finished swapping out the stepper motors and pulling out the old PSU. Now I'm looking at cleaning up my wire routing and seeing what, if any, wires I have to add/replace/etc... A quick look at the wiki shows that I should need right at 12 separate wires to connect to and control all the features of the Smart Effector. I currently have 10 available. My initial thought is to just run a new long cable for the Heat Cartridge (I already have 2 separate cables run for the e3D PT-100 sensor). Since I'm upgrading to a 24v system, I purchased e3d's new 24v/40W Premium cable (Green! ). It comes with a nice long cable that is still about 2 meter's short. Is it Ok to just extend it with 18-20 gauge wires from the top of the printer? (I'm already basically doing that for a 12v/40w standard cartridge, so I'm not overly concerned about it)

Anyway, the fact that I have to run 2 new lines to meet the wiring requirements got me thinking about finally adding on an external wire routing channel up the back side of the Z tower. It Gives me the option for heavier gauge wire and easier upgrade-ability down the road (Should I decide to add a filament sensor or, god help me, dual extrution! )

My Questions are :

1.) Given that I'm running from the bottom of the printer, to the top, and need enough to reach almost back to bottom, how heavy should I go? Personally, I think It's better to go heavier whenever given the option and would be fine just running everything as 18-20 gauge stranded copper. My only reason for going lighter gauge would be due to the heavier gauge having a negative effect on something (like the probing or pt100 sensor, which I know can be a bit finicky to those kinds of things.)

2.) Should I be running all wires to the effector in a single bundle, or even in close proximity, all the way from board to board? Is there any chance of interference I should have to worry about?

or

3.) Should I just run the 2 extra for the heater and use what I've got? It's been running my current setup just fine, but it's not the prettiest thing ever when I pull a panel off and that severely bugs my OCD! lol

I'm not in any super big hurry to get it back together. I Ordered a Keenovo AC heater pad and probably have 2-3 weeks at the very minimum before that arrives. In the mean time I just want to get everything spliced together, tested and good to go so that the bed heat is no more than a 5 minute install, when it gets here.

@phaedrux said in Help with custom firmware settings for Rostock Max V2 upgrade:

@metallikahn said in Help with custom firmware settings for Rostock Max V2 upgrade:

throwing in a PT100 sensor for me

Don't forget that to use a PT100 you will need the daughter board.

Yep! Included in my first post. Just some of the many $ I've spent with Filastruder in the last couple weeks!

@dc42 said in Help with custom firmware settings for Rostock Max V2 upgrade:

You need different types of SSR depending on whether the bed heater is low voltage DC or mains voltage AC.

got one specc'ed exactly the same as SeeMeCNC sells for running their AC heaters.