The z probe remains at zero and the green LED light does not come on. Everything else seems to be working fine, just the z probe is not triggering.
Posts made by kylesmth
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RE: Having some trouble connecting smart effector/z probe
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Having some trouble connecting smart effector/z probe
I've read through the wiki and double checked all of my wiring, everything looks good. I'm thinking that I probably have an issue with the configuration, if someone would be willing to double check it for me and see if everything looks ok that would be great, thanks.
; Configuration file for Duet WiFi (firmware version 1.17 to 1.19)
; executed by the firmware on start-up
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; generated by RepRapFirmware Configuration Tool on Sun Nov 19 2017 10:04:54 GMT-0700 (Mountain Standard Time); General preferences
M111 S0 ; Debugging off
G21 ; Work in millimetres
G90 ; Send absolute coordinates…
M83 ; ...but relative extruder moves
M555 P2 ; Set firmware compatibility to look like Marlin;*** The homed height is deliberately set too high in the following - you will adjust it during calibration.
M665 R105.6 L304 B85 H201.4 ; Set delta radius, diagonal rod length, printable radius and homed height
M666 X0 Y0 Z0 ; Put your endstop adjustments here, or let auto calibration find them
M208 Z0 S1 ; Set minimum Z; Endstops
M574 X2 Y2 Z2 S1 ; Set active high endstops
M558 P5 R0.4 F1000 T6000 ; Set Z probe type to ultrasonic, the axes for which it is used and the dive height + speeds
G31 P600 X0 Y0 Z-0.1 ; Set Z probe trigger value, offset and trigger height
M557 R85 S20 ; Define mesh grid; Drives
M569 P0 S1 ; Drive 0 goes forwards
M569 P1 S1 ; Drive 1 goes forwards
M569 P2 S1 ; Drive 2 goes forwards
M569 P3 S1 ; Drive 3 goes forwards
M350 X16 Y16 Z16 E16 I1 ; Configure microstepping with interpolation
M92 X100 Y100 Z100 E663 ; Set steps per mm
M566 X1200 Y1200 Z1200 E1200 ; Set maximum instantaneous speed changes (mm/min)
M203 X18000 Y18000 Z18000 E1200 ; Set maximum speeds (mm/min)
M201 X1000 Y1000 Z1000 E1000 ; Set accelerations (mm/s^2)
M906 X1000 Y1000 Z1000 E800 I30 ; Set motor currents (mA) and motor idle factor in per cent
M84 S30 ; Set idle timeout; Heaters
M301 H0 S1.00 P10 I0.1 D200 T0.4 W180 B30 ; Use PID on bed heater (may require further tuning)
M305 P0 T100000 B4138 C0 R4700 ; Set thermistor + ADC parameters for heater 0
M143 H0 S120 ; Set temperature limit for heater 0 to 120C
M305 P1 T100000 B4138 C7.060000e-8 R4700 ; Set thermistor + ADC parameters for heater 1
M143 H1 S280 ; Set temperature limit for heater 1 to 280C; Tools
M563 P0 D0 H1 ; Define tool 0
G10 P0 X0 Y0 Z0 ; Set tool 0 axis offsets
G10 P0 R0 S0 ; Set initial tool 0 active and standby temperatures to 0C; Network
M550 PMy printer ; Set machine name
M552 S1 ; Enable network
M587 S"Ents" P"SafetyFirst!" ; Configure access point. You can delete this line once connected
M586 P0 S1 ; Enable HTTP
M586 P1 S0 ; Disable FTP
M586 P2 S0 ; Disable Telnet; Fans
M106 P0 S0.3 I0 F500 H-1 ; Set fan 0 value, PWM signal inversion and frequency. Thermostatic control is turned off
M106 P1 S1 I0 F500 H1 T45 ; Set fan 1 value, PWM signal inversion and frequency. Thermostatic control is turned on
M106 P2 S1 I0 F500 H1 T45 ; Set fan 2 value, PWM signal inversion and frequency. Thermostatic control is turned on; Custom settings are not configured
; Miscellaneous
M501 ; Load saved parameters from non-volatile memory -
New duet?
Is there an estimated release date for the new Duet board? Just wondering if I should try to get a duet wifi or just wait until the new release? Thanks.
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RE: M566 on the fly?
What would be the sequence of commands to enter to do this?
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RE: How do I set the offset between nozzles/ head origin
It seems to be ok now that I've set standby and running temps to 0 under G10. I'll do some more testing today and see what I come up with it seems to be those G10 temps that are throwing everything off
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RE: How do I set the offset between nozzles/ head origin
Which type of heater fault are you getting? Have you run M307 H1 and M307 H2 to check that the values set in config.g are the ones being used?
I did run both of these and the values are definitely set. I'm still getting the same fault message as before.
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RE: How do I set the offset between nozzles/ head origin
After doing everything suggested I'm still getting heater faults, is there anything else I can do? Sorry for all the questions this is my first time playing around with dual extrusion.
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RE: How do I set the offset between nozzles/ head origin
after auto tuning should I just send M500 to save the new settings? or should I be manually writing it into the config file? these are my updated settings after auto tuning but i'm still getting heater faults.
; Heater and thermistor section
;*** If you have a Duet board with 1K thermistor series resistors, change R4700 to R1000 to the following M305 commands
M305 P0 T100000 B3950 R4700 H0 L0 ; Put your own H and/or L values here to set the bed thermistor ADC correction
M305 P1 T100000 B4719 R4700 H0 L0 ; Put your own H and/or L values here to set the first nozzle thermistor ADC correction
M305 P2 T100000 B4719 R4700 H0 L0 ; Put your own H and/or L values here to set the second nozzle thermistor ADC correction
;M301 H1 P10 I0.10 D100 T0.50 S1.0 ; PID settings for extruder 0
;M301 H2 P10 I0.10 D100 T0.50 S1.0 ; PID settings for extruder 1
M307 H1 A415.9 C173.7 D4.4 B0
M307 H2 A450.6 C173.7 D4.6 B0
M570 S120 -
RE: How do I set the offset between nozzles/ head origin
I was able to go through the auto tuning for both nozzles successfully. Now that I have my new M307 numbers do I have to remove the M301commands from the config file? I'm just not sure where the new numbers should be placed / the sequence of commands.
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RE: How do I set the offset between nozzles/ head origin
this page seems to be a dead link https://duet3d.com/wiki/Tuning_the_heat
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RE: How do I set the offset between nozzles/ head origin
the error message says temperature excursion exceeded 15*C
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How do I set the offset between nozzles/ head origin
Hello thanks for for checking this out. I'm having a bit of confusion setting up my chimera hot end, specifically with the G10 commands.
First issue:
I'm trying to set active and standby temperatures but when I try to go with 195/170 I get a heater error saying to check wiring and it will not let me power on heater 1. Like this:
; Tool definition section
M563 P0 D0 H1 ; Define tool 0 to use extruder drive 0 and heater 1
G10 P0 S195 R170 X18 Y0 ; Set tool 0 operating and standby temperatures
;*** If you have a dual-nozzle build, un-comment the following 2 lines
M563 P1 D1 H2 ; Define tool 1
G10 P1 S195 R170 X-18 Y0 ; Set tool 1 operating and standby temperaturesThe second question I have is how to determine the offset for the two nozzles. I measured the center to center distance between nozzles to be 18 so right now I have it set up as you see above.
after reading here https://duet3d.com/wiki/Configuring_RepRapFirmware_for_a_Cartesian_printer I realized that I may have determined that wrong. If someone could give me some clarification on this I would really appreciate it thanks.
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RE: Is anyone else using lead screws on x and y?
ok, I'm having an issue with printing smaller circles. The printer can keep up with everything else fine but when it tries to print the small circles it can make the motion quick enough and I'm getting a bad layer shift because it misses a few steps. Does anyone have any suggestions on how I could improve that?
Well I guess the obvious answer is to slow it down for small circles. Slic3r has a setting called "Small perimeters" under "Print Settings" which is used for (I think) anything with a radius of <=6.5mm. If you are not using slic3r then your slicer probably has a similar setting somewhere. HTH
Edit. Purely out of curiosity, why has your printer got lead screws for X and Y? Was that a conscious decision and if so, what were the factors that determined the decision? Don't get me wrong, I'm not being critical. It's just an unusual set up so I am just curious.
Ian
thanks I'm using simplify 3d so I'll take a look for that setting. I just went with lead screws more as an experiment more than anything. I wanted to see if there was much of an improvement over the quality of belt drive, and so far i'm pretty happy with the results. Just still working on sorting out some small issues like this.
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RE: Is anyone else using lead screws on x and y?
ok, I'm having an issue with printing smaller circles. The printer can keep up with everything else fine but when it tries to print the small circles it can make the motion quick enough and I'm getting a bad layer shift because it misses a few steps. Does anyone have any suggestions on how I could improve that?
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RE: Is anyone else using lead screws on x and y?
That solved all of my issues thanks guys. Now just need to work on some retraction and cooling issues
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RE: Is anyone else using lead screws on x and y?
Thanks I'll try out 300, 30 must have been the default settings
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RE: Is anyone else using lead screws on x and y?
M566 X30 Y30 Z30 E20 ; Minimum speeds mm/minute
so should I be lowering these values then? Just trying this out for the first time now, sorry I've been away from the printer for a bit.
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RE: Is anyone else using lead screws on x and y?
Well I'm printing over the web interface I'm guessing that's the same as via sd? I'll definitely play around with the jerk settings though thanks for the advice and quick response
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Is anyone else using lead screws on x and y?
I'm having some issues with printing circles and curves. The movement seems kind of choppy instead of smooth. I'm just wondering if I could somehow improve this. I like to usually use concentric infill but it's not looking very nice. I'm running duet 0.8.5 . Steps per mm on motors are all dialed in correct, proven by a very accurate calibration cube. Thanks for any help you can offer for me here
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RE: Simplify3D settings
I'm using simplify 3d but only as a slicer not a controller. What kind of hot end / extruder set up are you running? That will make a big difference for settings.