Posts made by jh628

Thanks for the responses. I am amazed at how easy it has been to get support here.

I am wondering if I would get a slightly better flex out of the effector if I only used 3 of the single-hole spacers:

It also just occured to me that maybe the spacers could be replaced with precision length die springs. The springs would allow the PCB to flex more naturally- the trick would be getting the right spring tension. The screw passing through the spring would maybe need to be a smaller diameter than an M3. I have a 4-40 on my desk that measures 2.78mm. That might work- though the springs might allow the nozzle tip to shift away from center a bit.

My home built delta printer is made out of machined bits of aluminum and Delrin and uses what I thought until recently was a pretty unique ball joint system. Seemecnc's injection molded ball joints are very similar to mine. I would like a better Z-probe setup and it isn't a very good option for me to use the Delta Smart Effector as intended with the mag-balls.

If the Delta Smart Effector is a sort of strain gauge, how much of the PCB needs to flex in order for it to work? I could modify my current aluminum effector to use the 6 mounting holes intended for the mag-balls, but I need to know if each of the holes would need to have its own spacer/standoff, or if I could attach each corner pair to just 3 larger spacers. I will need to machine out the center of my effector for clearance of the connectors and wires.

One option I might have would be to mount the Smart Effector above my current effector and have the nozzle tip extend just below the lower surface of my effector- this would give me quite a bit more Z-travel. This would make it harder to use the LED lighting.

A more straight forward mounting would be to place it under my current effector, and the 6 or 3 spacers I use could be short enough that I wouldn't lose much height. I drew this option with the larger spacers in each corner.

One more option would be to machine adapters to mount between the smart effector and the Delrin ball mounts I made. This would probably be the most work since I would have to make the new adapters, rather than just modify what I already have. This version also looks like it might be the hardest to get all the angles and spacing correct since I would only have the 2.9mm holes to use for mounting the adapters. My current arrangement uses dowel pins to ensure alignment. In the options above the alignment is less critical since none of the features on the PCB are used to determine the delta geometry. I am sure that the PCB hole spacing is at least as accurate as my machined parts, it would just be harder for me to use just those holes to maintain the geometry I already have. I could maybe use 2.9mm dowel pins, but I would have to come up with another way to fasten the adapters to the PCB. I will have to give this a little more thought. Does anyone know how thick the PCB is?

I guess my biggest question is whether the Smart Effector is going to work as intended if it isn't mounted as intended.

Thanks for the help. If I hadn't reversed the wire connection on my heatsink fan last night (I have been doing way too much of that lately) and gotten melted filament jambed up in the heat break, I think I might be up and running. I will put everything back together today before I get too tired to make solid decisions.

I am trying to tune the temperatures for my hotend and heated bed and have had a little trouble getting what appear to be accurate values when cool. I am coming from smoothieware, so the differences are just enough that I am getting confused. I don't know whether my board is/was stickered "4.7K", but changing the R1000 values to R4700 makes the ambient tempertures of the hotend and heated bed more realistic. With R1000 the temperaturess are 50 and 54 C, With R4700 they are about 16 and 18 C. My basement is cool, but not quite that cold.

I have had to use H30 in each of the M305 lines to get the readings closer to what I measure with a thermocouple. I thought the H value was an offset in degrees- is it a percentage or some other kind of coefficient?

; Thermistors
;*** If you have a Duet board stickered "4.7K", change R1000 to R4700 to the following M305 commands

M305 P0 T100000 B3950 C0 R4700 H30 L0 ; Put your own H and/or L values here to set the bed thermistor ADC correction

M305 P1 T100000 B4725 C7.060000e-8 R4700 H30 L0 ; Put your own H and/or L values here to set the first nozzle thermistor ADC correction

It looks like I got it working. I didn't see any change when I extracted the www files directly to the sd card folder. I was poking around at the rest of my settings and saw that the ethernet port I had bridged with the wifi port did not have internet access. I deleted and then recreated the bridge and this time checked both the Local Area Connection and the Wireless Network Connection boxes as adapters I wanted to use to connect computers on the network. The instructions I used yesterday made me think I only wanted one of those checked. As soon as the bridge was created I typed the IP address into my browser and the duet web control came right up.

Thanks for the help. Now I need to connect motors and heaters and see if I can revive this printer!

Thanks for the responses. I have firmware 1.20 installed- I will take a look at the web files when I get home from work.

I am sorry if I sounded critical of the site when I said the links didn't work- I didn't intend it that way. I let this board sit in its box for 2 years before trying anything with it. It is nobody's fault but mine if the technology progressed beyond it in the mean time. I am seeking support for an obsolete board.

One other possibility I dug up somewhere is that my router might not be setup to allow the web server on the duet. I just can't find any information on how I would verify any of that.

Thanks again- I will let you know if reloading the web files on the sd card helps.

I am very new to this but have been completely immersed for the last 3 days. I have finally managed to get a ping back from my Duet 0.8.5 in a cmd window after assigning a static IP address in my config.g file and bridging my wireless network adapter with my ethernet port. I just get nothing when I type the IP address into my browser (Chrome or Firefox). By nothing, I mean I get the message that the page can't be found.

Networks are a mystery to me but seem to have been required reading in order to use one of these boards. I am trying to revive a printer that up until 3 days ago ran beautifully with a smoothieboard. I bought this 0.8.5 duet a couple of years ago when I was gathering materials for a second printer that never happened. Now I just want something that works.

It is unclear to me whether the 0.8.5 is really supported/compatible with the current firmware releases. All of the old links in forum posts and setup guides that used to go to 0.8.5 specific information don't work anymore- they just go to a more general location: duet3d.dozuki.com, which doesn't seem to address the use of this older board.

Any ideas about what I might be missing?