Posts made by jacksat

@FelixH said in Famous error :Warning: motor phase A Drive1:

aren't you missing something?. The error tells you exactly what is happening. Instead of looking to your config files, check the continuity of you motor cables. I got this error once and it pop up because one of the motor cables was pinch by the printer's frame and eventually was severed. I repaired the cable and everything was fine.

Yep, you are right on the spare stepper, but when i checked continuity it was fine no open coils or shorts, even on the stepper that is faulty.

But after seeing your reply i checked the resistance instead of just continuity and the faulty stepper reads only half of the resistance of the working one (both same brand and specs) but the only difference is that the good one is measured in circuit with a meter of wire and the bad one out the circuit on the socket with 0.10m of wire .

But i don't think that this is why the good one has double the resistance,
I used decent silicone wire with real copper strands and not of those all pvc and 3 thin strands of aluminum wire.

Thank you for your help.

@dc42 said in Famous error :Warning: motor phase A Drive1:

The rule for motor phase errors is:

• If the errors are reported on just one phase, it's usually because of a bad connection.
• If the errors are reported on both phases, the likely causes are:
  -- Trying to move a high-inductance motor at too high a speed for the VIN voltage to be sufficient
  -- Motor current set too low (although more recent firmware suppress the message if the current is set to less than 500mA)
  -- Motor not connected, or connected to the wrong driver output

I just solved the problem,it was a combination of three problems,
Nr 1 : bad motor (probably didn't survive the wrong stepper settings )

Nr 2 : no proper remapping of driver one to 7, if i did that right i would see that something was wrong with the spare stepper, because once
i got the remap right (set it to driver 7) ,i got the same error
message , so this could not be that this driver was faulty too.
Could it be that the spare unused stepper was also faulty ,
Hmm, i have some pancake steppers so when i tried one of these
no errors , remapped to driver back to 1, and guess what no errors .

Nr3 : the second motor who caused the same error had a bad intermittent connection at the connector, so when i cut the connector off and crimped a new one on the stepper worked fine no errors anymore on driver 1.

So thank you all for the help and fast reply , that is why i always go for a duet board ,one off the best support forums .

So again thank you all.

@droftarts
Thank you for the reply, I will try this tomorrow.
I checked the piece off Gcode to remap a driver again and I can see what I did wrong.
Oops RTFM more than once.

"In RRF_3, M584 works the same way as in RRF_2, with the exception that on Duet 3 the driver on expansion boards are assigned with <board address>.<driver number>. Example:
M584 X0 Y1 Z2 E3:4:1.0:1.1
The "0" index for the main board is implicit, this is equivalent to the previous example:

M584 X0.0 Y0.1 Z0.2 E0.3:0.4:1.0:1.1"

I didn't read the howto correct and i see now what i did wrong.
The way I remapped the driver is only for the duet3 and its expansion board.
and its expansion board.
Some Howe I saw RRF3 and exeptation and then looked at the example and saw that the main board begin with a 0.0 and the add-on boards with a 1.0
Thanks.

For the Y driver: I already tested by swapping the X and Y but still no go.
I tested with a different stepper and plugged it straight in the driver connector to rule out the wires , still no go
checked the homing files nothing obvious wrong there.

Thank you again @droftarts

If someone has an explanation of what could happen with driver 1 Your comment would highly be appreciated.
Can a stepper driver nuked by wrong settings in micro-stepping ?

Hi ,
after one week of debugging and reading up on this forum
I give up and reach out to you guys for some help.
Maybe I will look like a fool at the end because it mite be a small
error in my config ,but so be it.
I know that this problem is handled a couple of times in this forum but maybe I miss
something of didn’t read it correct.
So ,the error :Warning: motor phase A may be disconnected reported by driver(s) 1 Warning: motor phase B may be disconnected reported by driver(s) 1
When I try to home the Y axis I get this warning and this happened after I updated
to 3.1.1 from 2.3 .
The update was done via the web-server to first 2.5 and then to 3.0 but while upgrading
to 3.0 after extracting the zip connection was lost and I have to restart the board manually
before web sever was back available ,gave it a one more try with same problem , so I
dug up USB cable from under the dust and poked it in the Wi-Fi board downloaded the
hugely outdated looking pronterface ,
took out the SD card and slide it in my laptop ,poor thing didn’t know there was a world outside the card slot.
I placed the bin files Duet2CombinedFirmware and Duet2CombinedIAP in sys and DuetWiFiServer in WWW and put it back in the duet and installed it via pronterface
with no problem.
I checked it in settings machine specific and there was RFF3 so time too update to3.1.1
same exact problem and same install like RFF3 .
Made a new cofig;file via ,https://configurator.reprapfirmware.org/
Replaced my old config with the new one and tried to Home the Y axis first ,but y moved 50mm give and take and then started to jitter on the spot ,i thought i did something wrong in the homing section when i made the new cofig file .
I then homed the X and i noticed it home way way too fast i was even surprised it homed correctly .
How the carriage stopped so fast ad the end stop it was amazing ,but then I thought something is wrong with the motor settings.

I opened the config file and saw that the steps per mm was correct but the micro stepping was set to 1/16 instead of 1/128 so that explains the supersonic X axis , also for the Y axis ,after correction X homes at normal speed now but the Y give me that warning “Motor phase A on drivers 1.

Can it be that the driver is nuked because of the wrong setting in config file ?

If so , how can I remap the Y from driver 1 to one of the drivers on my duex 5?
I tried M569 P1.3 S0 and M584 X0 Y1.3 Z2 E3:4:5 but that does not work
I always get that error on drive 1.
Here are my configfile and M112 report.
configfile.txt
M112_1.txt

@deckingman said in No manual extrusion here (hot nor cold)??:

@jacksat Have you selected a tool before you attempt to extrude? If not, just enter T0 from the console, then try.

Yes ,i did but same result.
But i think it is solved now,need to do more testing but too F-ing hot in the shop where the printer lives.
I did a reinstall of the firmware and then i deselect and select the tool again and now both extruders work when i push extrude 10mm.
Don't know if the reinstall fixed it or deselect and then select the tool again did.
Thanks for thinking along .

@veti said in No manual extrusion here (hot nor cold)??:

have you tried enabling cold extrusion?

https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Gcode#Section_M302_Allow_cold_extrudes

Thanks for replying .

Yes i did it is in the title , but same thing no movement on the stepper ,no error mesage,no peep or squeak ,nothing ,nada .

I was recalibrating the extruders as i changed one from a1.8 degree to a 0.9 degree pancake stepper ,but i didn't like it (skipped steps to easy) so went bak to the 1.8 pancake but never did a retest and i left it for a coupple weeks before i found some time to go furter .
But before i did a calibration i updated to 2.03 and i cant remember if i did other changes that can cause this besides changing the steps to half that of the 0.9.

I can home the X,Yand Z ,I can use the load filamet button and the extruders work they spin happy ,but if i want to extrude 100mm to calibrate the extrusion lenght Nada happens no error mesage nothing ,in the Gcode console you can see that code got registerd but no movent of the extruder motors.
Am i missing something here ,i think this begon after the last update but not 100% sure.
Here are some specs.


And config file
0_1561805379714_cofig.g

Yeah, maybe you can replace the layer graph. for a toolpad preview .

Hi,

Just want to mention the following ,but not 100% sure.
Isn't it so that original E3D V6 heatsinks have M7 threads in them ,and most clones are M6 ?
From the pics in the link i can see the have M7 on the heatsink side and M6 on the heaterblock side
so they would fit the original E3D's but not the clone heatsinks.

So befor you order maybe you want to check if the innerthread of your heatsinks are M7 or M6(heaterblock side is no problem they are all M6)

@topiolm@hotmail.com:

Dear jacksat

Thanks for your nice explaination. very nice build, if I may ask one more question what slicer are you using ?

when checking your pictures , I say you have Belgian plate number what area you from ? If i may ask don't want to intrude I am from Antwerp

Best regards
MT

Hi,

I use mostly Slic3r prusa version these days ,before that i used S3D.
But i prefer Slic3r, don't know why,i think the GUI S3d looks old.

And yes i'm Belgian ,i live in Oostende.

Kind regards.
JS

=topiolm@hotmail.com]Dear Jacksat

Very nice build !!!!! I also thought of using a much bigger airpump , but the cost is fairly steep , after all the testing I did , using compressed air is best for small parts as for biger parts the fans work beter of course it depends how much air you have available , during my testing i managed to use both and that gives really nice result , quick cooling near the nozzle and even cooling on the rest of the part .

I really like you water cooling , you have a much heavier build then me , I used the same material as the ultimaker 2 to build my printer , it s a much lighter build ,

Do do have an idea how much extra weight it adds on the head ?

Hi,

At the moment i am rebuilding my printer from a dubbel direct driven printhead to 4 direct driven.
On 2 heads i had no troble to go up to 70 a 75mm/s printspeed befor the printer start to walk arround on the bench ,but i print mostly on 40 a 50 mm/s.
The printer is so sturdy(stupidly overbuild) that when you go at these high speeds you don't see anything in the prints ,so the wheight is not the limiting factor.
The dubbel head weight is arround :280g x2 for the pancakes ,80g x2 for the Titans and 200g -250g for the hotends, heatblocks and carriage.
So that's very, very heavy , and you can easely dubbel that for the 4 head version.All the above + 2 servo's.
If that becomes to heavy i will go to a 2 direct and 2 bowden setup.

I use syncroflex T2.5 belts instead of the cheap black T2 "rubberbands", that made a huge differce ,all steppers are monted on vibration dampers ,that makes the
printer a bit quieter ,but in my mind i think also less accurate on X and Y ,not a problem on the Z axes.

The watercooling does not add any extra weight i think comparred with a stock schroud and fan.(maybe the silicon hoses in the cable chain)
It is just 2 rubber O rings and a piece of polycabonte 30 mm/out 24 mm/inner dia tube and silicone hose.
Just it is alot quieter than fans.

And do you get resonance to the frame from those big fans from the cooling bloque ?

Don't really understand this one ,if you mean the fan on the radiator on the back off the printer ,then no.
This fan does not even need run on 2 heaterblocks ,i can keep the temp solid up to 235C on a 6 hour ABS print.
The coolant temp went up only by 12°C from ambiant temp ,but i will need the fan when i will run 4 heatblocks (i think).
But for the moment i get away with only 1 fan running and that is to cool the drivers on the Duet
It is a very silent Noctua NF-F12 industrialPPC-24V-3000 Q100 IP67 PWM

I am not sure but from ur pictures looks like I using like a buildtalk on you table , I am wondering how good is the result with the dc42 ir prob ? I am using the prob and got a buildtalk plate but have not tried it yet

Good eye ,no problems with the Buildtak and DC's probe.
Best regards
JS

Best Regards
MT

Ps if you intrested something I have tested with great success ,the use of compressed air for cooling the part during printing , for small part worked miracles only problem was the amount of air used and the noise, my neighbor became crazy , the compressor was working to much and for to long :-). so reverted to the traditional fan,

the advantaged was less weight on the head and vibration was reduced ,not that there is a lot of vibration , but any improvement is an improvement how ever small

Hi,

I used a aircompressor to ,but now I use a airpump from my pond for part cooling.
All you hear now is the sound of air at the nozzle the pump is super silent.
The one I use is even too much airflow, you probably can use a smaller Hiblow 40hp or similar but this is what I had and they are not cheap.
The air regulator I use too dry the air with silica (cat litter),I replaced the oil in the oiler and and the watercatcher with silica, so no condensation can drip
out at the cooling end and ruining your prints.
You can go with cheaper brands but I know from experience they are also noisier.

And I use watercooling to cool the extruders ,so my setup is really quiet.

@patel:

Thank for reply
Can you explain how to update firmware. I am new use

If you are new, then i strongly advice you to read the wiki
a couple of times before you proceed.
https://duet3d.com/wiki/Updating_main_firmware

If you still don't undersand it ,then ask what the problem specific is and you will get help fast here.
But you can't expect people will write down the whole procedure for you here on the forum,
if it is nicely explained in the wiki.

Please be more specific.

@dc42:

Can you tell us how you did that print?

Hi, DC

Here is a how to
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y63sVpeViXo&t=1s
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y63sVpeViXo&t=1s

Did you read these yet

https://duet3d.com/wiki/Configuring_RepRapFirmware_for_a_Cartesian_printer#Homing_files

If you home Z using a microswitch instead, then you can use a pattern similar to homex,g and homey.g. However, if you use a low-end homing switch that triggers a little before Z=0, then you can't use M208 to define the homing position, because it would prevent you moving below the trigger height. You can use a G92 command after homing instead. Here is an example, for the case where you have a low-end homing switch that triggers at Z=0.3mm:

G91 ; relative mode
G1 Z4 F200 ; raise head 4mm to ensure it is above the switch trigger height
G90 ; back to absolute mode
G1 X0 Y0 F2000 ; put head wherever you want it to be when you home Z (omit this line if it doesn't matter)
G91 ; relative mode
G1 Z-200 S1 F100 ; move Z down until the switch triggers
G90 ; back to absolute mode
G92 Z0.3 ; tell the firmware that we are at Z=0.3mm

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