Posts made by GeckoBox3D

@stealthy_tt

195mm^2

M122 just tells me that a file was selected for printing. nothing else happens.

using USB and S3D yields this:

SENT: M122
READ: === Diagnostics ===
READ: Used output buffers: 5 of 32 (11 max)
READ: === Platform ===
READ: RepRapFirmware for Duet 2 WiFi/Ethernet version 1.21 running on Duet WiFi 1.0 or 1.01
READ: Board ID: 08DAM-999TL-MQ4S8-6JTDJ-3SJ6N-16BBW
READ: Static ram used: 16152
READ: Dynamic ram used: 100504
READ: Recycled dynamic ram: 2128
READ: Stack ram used: 3576 current, 6632 maximum
READ: Never used ram: 5656
READ: Last reset 55:12:08 ago, cause: power up
READ: Last software reset at 2018-04-22 18:17, reason: User, spinning module GCodes, available RAM 5784 bytes (slot 0)
READ: Software reset code 0x0003 HFSR 0x00000000, CFSR 0x00000000, ICSR 0x0441f000, BFAR 0xe000ed38, SP 0xffffffff
READ: Error status: 8
READ: Free file entries: 10
READ: SD card 0 detected, interface speed: 20.0MBytes/sec
READ: SD card longest block write time: 0.0ms
READ: MCU temperature: min 35.6, current 35.8, max 36.7
READ: Supply voltage: min 11.9, current 12.0, max 12.2, under voltage events: 0, over voltage events: 0
READ: Driver 0: standstill, SG min/max not available
READ: Driver 1: standstill, SG min/max not available
READ: Driver 2: standstill, SG min/max not available
READ: Driver 3: standstill, SG min/max not available
READ: Driver 4: standstill, SG min/max not available
READ: Date/time: 2018-05-10 18:04:05
READ: Slowest main loop (seconds): 0.179110; fastest: 0.000112
READ: === Move ===
READ: MaxReps: 0, StepErrors: 0, LaErrors: 0, FreeDm: 240, MinFreeDm 240, MaxWait: 0ms, Underruns: 0, 0
READ: Scheduled moves: 0, completed moves: 0
READ: Bed compensation in use: none
READ: Bed probe heights: 0.000 0.000 0.000 0.000 0.000
READ: === Heat ===
READ: Bed heaters = 0 -1 -1 -1, chamberHeaters = -1 -1
READ: Heater 0 is on, I-accum = 0.0
READ: Heater 1 is on, I-accum = 0.4
READ: === GCodes ===
READ: Segments left: 0
READ: Stack records: 1 allocated, 0 in use
READ: Movement lock held by null
READ: http is idle in state(s) 0
READ: telnet is idle in state(s) 0
READ: file is idle in state(s) 0
READ: serial is ready with "M122" in state(s) 0
READ: aux is idle in state(s) 0
READ: daemon is idle in state(s) 0
READ: queue is idle in state(s) 0
READ: autopause is idle in state(s) 0
READ: Code queue is empty.
READ: === Network ===
READ: Responder states: HTTP(0) HTTP(0) HTTP(0) HTTP(0) FTP(0) Telnet(0) Telnet(0)
READ: HTTP sessions: 2 of 8
READ: - WiFi -
READ: Network state is running
READ: WiFi module is connected to access point
READ: Failed messages: pending 0, notready 0, noresp 0
READ: WiFi firmware version 1.21
READ: WiFi MAC address 5c:cf:7f:2c:27:94
READ: WiFi Vcc 3.38, reset reason Turned on by main processor
READ: WiFi flash size 4194304, free heap 15992
READ: WiFi IP address 192.168.1.147
READ: WiFi signal strength -63dBm, reconnections 0, sleep mode modem
READ: Socket states: 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
READ: === Expansion ===

For some reason I've come across a weird error after installing the new firmware.

My prints often cancel themselves before they have even started, weirdly though, this only happens on about half of the prints and is more likely to happen after I've already done a print, but it has also done it on the first print.

my routine: I set temps manually, slice file and then upload it to the web interface. The homing process then starts and the print will cancel after the X axis homes and then it will turn the heaters off etc, just like ending a print. My starting script in the slic3r is just G28.

my Homeall file:
M84 E0:1 ; Extruder motor off
G91 ; Relative positioning
;G1 Z5 F6000 S2 ; Lift Z
G1 Y-195 F1800 S1
G1 X-195 F1800 S1 ; Move towards X and Y axis endstops (first pass)
G1 X5 Y5 F6000 ; Go back a few mm
G1 X-195 Y-195 F360 S1 ; Move slowly to axis endstops once more (second pass)

G1 Z-200 S1 F100 ; move Z down until the switch triggers
G1 Z20 S1 F100 ; Move Z up 20mm
G92 Z0.10 ; tell the firmware that we are at Z=0.10mm
G90 ; absolute mode

My homeX file:
G91
G1 Z5 F6000 S2
G90
G91
G1 X5 F6000
G90
G1 X-250 F360 S1
G91
G1 Z-5 F6000 S2
G90

Any help appreciated.. I have checked the forums and this is a head scratcher

I'm looking to add some macro buttons to the printer. I know how to set it up (momentary button or endstop which triggers a macro) but the buttons also have an LED ring.

What would be the best way to wire this up to light up with the button press? They have 4 leads coming out of the button, two for the button itself and 2 for the LED.

@dc42:

I'll ask Jason again for a sample of matt black PrintBite to test the IR sensor with.

Any update on this? I've been waiting to see someone's results for a while as my old gridded printbite gives horrendous IR probe results

@Urban:

Barracuda72: The membership is free but controlled by linkedIn. Eventually I will host it myself, but you get a lot of contacts on linkedIn.
GeckoBox3D: I will do the big radius bends with step bending, 4 deg each step. This is not perfekt, but hopefully good enough for a demonstrator. The powder painting will be structured, so this will hide some of it.

I will stick to the standard extruders etc for now because it is to much work designing and testing them for now. The big cost is the servos and screws. Then it depends on if you want to compare to a Prusa or a Stratasys, 1000€ or 50 000€.

I used fusion360 for sheetmetal, and it has worked better than expected. Do you have any pictures of your design?

You're quite right about the budget, but anything over £3000 has to be quite spectacular in my opinion. The Ultimaker 3, Robo R2, BCN3D sigma or Raise3D N2 are all around the £3'000 mark and are very capable printers. If you want to go more expensive then this, then you need a novel approach or high reliability, or more likely both. Your servos and ball screws will only give incremental improvements to reliability where as a heated chamber and well set printing profiles will go much further.

Interesting project… I'm currently undertaking a very similar project and the sheet metal has become more complicated then initially thought.

For example, the large radius bends on the corner of your machine are difficult to get manufactured. Most benders do not have the tooling to do larger radiuses and will charge extra for tooling. Most benders will also not handle the metal well, and you'll have extra costs for clean up and finishing.

If you want to go down the sheet metal route and still keep costs low then I highly suggest getting different extruders, hotends and nozzles as this will take up a sizeable chunk of your budget. Many printer manufacturers make their own proprietary systems for this exact reason (as well as creating a market for spare parts).

Yes, as said I checked all my connections and wiring. This printer is for a client and so all wiring has been checked, checked and triple checked.

The 24v short happened when I was installing some 5050 LED tape. The end of the tape was exposed where the tape was cut and touched the bench whilst I was testing them. Complete oversight for me, and I've now insulated the ends of all my leds. The printer immediately turned off to only find that the 3.3v line has fried. According to their own guide, this should be next to impossible to do so I'm fairly certain something else is wrong that shouldn't be. This sort of fault should only happen if you accidentally load 12/24v into the z probe or similar outputs and I don't even have a z probe

The LEDs were not routed with any thermistors, they were wired direct to power supply just to illuminate the whole printer. Hence why I'm surprised that this has caused the board to blow. There were no nearby components and none of the wires are damaged (I have checked today) I thought it was extremely difficult for a simple short at the power supply to cause this? This leads me to believe a possible fault with the boards protection features

As far as I can see, it is V1.02, according to the writing in the center of the board. It is the duet ethernet version. The board blew around 6'o clock yesterday though and the self resetting fuses (if that was the problem) don't appear to have kicked in.

I have no means of applying 3.3v to the board unfortunately to see if that helps. I know the vin line is working, as the fans turn on still and the blue vin led still works, along with the red 5v led when I plug in USB.

I'm surprised to see that such a short has caused this to the board though. According to the 'How to destroy a duet' guide, its quite hard to achieve this, hence why I started the topic. Could one of the protection methods built in to the board be faulty? I would be willing to send this back to you guys to see what you think

Well, I have half an idea how. I shorted some LED tape by accident that were hooked directly into the 24v supply and everything turned off. The supply is fine, the duet got burned.

Here is where it gets weird though, its blown the 3.3v line on the duet. 5v line is still fine (as far as the red LED lights up). I can't connect to the interface, or through usb.

I've taken a lot of care on this build… The duet is isolated from the frame with plastic mounts and nylon screws, the wiring is neat and nothing peculiar. Surely a short on the VIN rail at 24v should not cause this? From what I gather the board is quite protected from over voltage at this point. I also had absolutely no magic smoke to suggest that something went seriously wrong... it just turned off.

To make matters worse, I've only had the board hooked up to the printer for a few days! I've ordered a replacement board as I'm on a tight deadline, but I would love to know how I killed this board. I feel it may warrant extra investigation

I'm planning to do this with a Fotek ssr, will this be alright or will I need something to isolate it from the board as well?

The smaller you get, the more likely you are to get a collision as well. Its possible that each gantry in that machine simply has its own print space. When you slice the file, you simply slice 4 different sections.

Hi dmkmedia,

I run a small 3D printing and design business in Sheffield called GeckoBox3D. We are a relatively new company but one of my first contracts has been for the University of Sheffield making a new 3D printer. We have also had a few other contracts locally project managing for start up companies as well as high end prototyping for larger businesses.

The new 3D printer project is nearing completion and the official release will be next month. After this I will be doing a trial run selling a few more printers and if deemed profitable it will be made in larger numbers. If you are interested and you'd like to know more then hit me up, the email is Geckobox3D@gmail.com

The printer itself has a good build size of 300x200x400mm, A nearly all-metal aluminium construction, Dual nozzle E3D cyclops and duet electronics. it will also have CoreXY mechanics and piezo bed levelling technology. It is designed with a focus on user friendliness and hack ability. All source files/design files/drawings will be released to customers and eventually it will be fully open-source for anyone to make. The main focus to begin with is 3D printing but I'm hoping to expand the functionality to lab based work including precision syringes which could easily extrude chocolate or other liquid materials of choice.

Some of the first teaser shots:

Your Y axis belt is not parallel to itself. This will cause the belt to become tighter as you move towards the Y min/max. Worst case scenario this will cause missed steps, but best case is that it still causes ringing and banding in the print

@number40fan:

You could get some 4mm studs/all thread for your 10mm balls.

For the Hayden's, just order them directly from Hayden.

They are 3/8" balls, 3mm x 10mm stud.

I have considered using a male thread to turn my 10mm balls into a similar thing, but it is the hex I need. I could add a nut, but the result is not very professional and also requires some form of glue to stop it rotating. To top it all off, they will be in contact with my heated bed and so a single all metal solution is very appealing.

I'm also based in the UK, so buying from Haydn is not practical, hence why I'm asking

I'm looking for some of the Haydn magball ends for a project I'm working on. To be specific, I'm after the balls with a hex and a male thread. I have 10mm balls with a female thread, but without a means of tightening them they are not very useful to me.

The Haydn balls seem ridiculously hard to find except directly from Haydn, or as an addon from the duet shop with Haydn arms. Would you guys be willing to sell them seperately, or does anyone know of an alternative source for these?

Also, does anyone know what the thread is, and how long it is, and what the diameter of the balls are?

Thanks muchly

Nice mount.

I'm also glad to know I'm not the only one who has resorted to bodge fixing the E3D sock to my hotend! I use a thin strip of kapton tape but it was a PITA to get on…..

Any luck with the black printbite? Would love to see some pics of your levelling grids. I have the gridded printbite surface and it doesn't work on that.

I'm yet to decide if it is a dodgy IR sensor, or if it is hitting the grids and causing a strange pattern.

My bed levelling came out as such –

I could rip off my old printbite and buy a new one, or I could get it to only take readings from within grids, but my current set up works without an IR sensor… it is really only to have a digital readout of my bed flatness that I care about so I'm yet to take the plunge. Let me know how black printbite works though and maybe i'll take the plunge

To be honest, I think the issue was loose wiring. Proper use of ferrules and thicker gauge wiring has fixed the issue. My new Duet board has been running with no problems at all since last year.

The old board is still lying around… It boots up via usb. One of these days i'll solder on a new connection and see if it runs via 12/24v. My suspicion is that it will be absolutely fine