Posts made by drphil3d

if you want to print high tempature materials you will need a water cooled hotend, just run the water lines to the outside of the chamber, you will definitely need the cooling the printer is very well insulated.

Yeah, that's exactly what I was thinking. Change the jumper to 5V on one of the fan outputs and connect that to the heated chamber, then figure out how to update the config to use the fan pin for chamber heater control.

Another option I was just thinking of, is I could breadboard a transistor and some resistors to signal the chamber heater using one of the 3.3v pins on the duet.

I would drive the heated chamber mosfet directly, however they used a mosfet that has a control voltage limit of 15v, otherwise I could just feed the heated bed output directly to the heated chamber test point pin (TP2).

This is my first attempt at a mounting solution for a bondtech bmg extruder. The pin in the middle really gets in the way.
The stock hotend has a number of drawbacks that limit its usefulness.

• Not going to print PLA, or anything even the slightest bit flexible the way it's designed. That PC-ABS 430 has a very high glass transition tempature. The oem hotend (liquifier) isn't really meant for printing any low tempature materials.
• non metric nozzle size is going to make slicing interesting
• No or very little retraction. They call it a liquifier for a reason, pc-abs has some unique properties designed for this printhead.
  

I traced the pins and found that J15 is the same as J17 on the 1200SST, I was able to enable the heated chamber and other accessories. Now I face another issue, how do I control it. I can't use the heated bed output on the duet sense that would feed 24v into a 5v pin...aaaahhh.

This thing is such a beast

My PDB is different than yours, It looks like the ports have different labels. I was able to connect the +5V Reference Test point to Power Enable to power the board on. But that's also powering the Stepper drivers and other things I don't necessarily want turned on. I still need to figure out how to apply power to the Chamber heaters, looks as though the relay to the left of the SSR needs to be enabled first.

Stepper Drivers

It looks to me like the chamber heaters are driven by a mosfet, that first must be enabled by a relay, I',m not completely certain. My goal is to try and tap into the signal inputs for mosfet and relay and wire that to the heated bed output on the duet, that way I wouldn't have to cut any wires.

I see pin 16 of J15 is power enable, I'm assuming that it wants +5v for power enable?

Yeah, it looks quite similar to mine, although the print head board is different.

I haven't really cut anything yet, I was going to leave the optical end stops intact and what ever other sensors that I could leave for later use.

As for the stepper motors I decided it would be far easier to use the Duet TMC drivers and take advantage of the sensorless homing so that I don't have to worry about wiring any of the endstops. It works quite well, and I have the advantage of being able to use the stall guard feature for crash detection during printing.

I got rid of the lcd and replaced it with a raspberry pi touchscreen. Unfortunately Octoscreen (octoprint UI) won't run when rotated 90*. The Panel Due does not support 90* rotation either. Frustrating.

The stock hotend design is only going to work for printing pc-abs or other high tempature materials that won't deform at lower temperatures. Due to this limitation I'm replacing the extruder assembly with a single hotend for now. I may have a custom 120 watt 24v heater core made for this, the owner of this company is a friend of mine so it makes this easier for me to acquire.
https://ubishotends.com/shop/xx9ppgi6moubdjx5kscfk8md4e8ecb

@AJ-Quick Here is my Github repo for the uPrint & 1200SST
https://github.com/drphil3d/stratasys

@AJ-Quick That is Freekin amazing!!! do you have the pinout of those headers you can share with me? I'm in the middle of retrofitting my 1200SST.

I'm now working on a stratasys dimension 1200sst, but it was working when I got it vs dealing with a gutted uprint.
The stock hotend runs on 120VDC. I just read the service manual, it documents all the test points and you can just plug into those to get the sensor data you need.

Do you have a cad model of the photo above?
This is one I found on grabcad and have modified.
https://a360.co/2UyWBvr

Here's the printhead I'm modifying to fit a nema 17 stepper and a bondtech BMG.
https://a360.co/2yiIT7l

Here's an adapter plate to mount the duet in the 1200SST with GEN2 Electronics
https://a360.co/2X0NHIN

Well.... unbenounced to me I was using a 0.75mm nozzle.. which explains a lot. Just wish I had caught this mistake yesterday or now that I think of it a few months ago when I was having the same exact problem in another printer that I was using this nozzle in. now my print quality is great. Live and learn lol

0.2mm layer height 0.4mm nozzle default cura settings

I can’t figure out what’s going on with this machine I just finished building. I’m embarrassed to have to ask for help but I’ve done everything I can think and still I’m having really strange issues.
I’m using a triangle labs bondtech extruder. I’ve calibrated it and check to make sure xyz all travel the amount they should.

; Configuration file for Duet WiFi (firmware version 1.21)
; executed by the firmware on start-up
;
; generated by RepRapFirmware Configuration Tool v2 on Mon Jun 17 2019 09:34:44 GMT-0700 (Pacific Daylight Time)

; General preferences
G90 ; Send absolute coordinates...
M83 ; ...but relative extruder moves

; Network
M550 P"Model 3" ; Set machine name
M552 S1 ; Enable network
;*** Access point is configured manually via M587
M586 P0 S1 ; Enable HTTP
M586 P1 S0 ; Disable FTP
M586 P2 S0 ; Disable Telnet

; Drives
M569 P0 S1 ; Physical drive 0 goes forwards
M569 P2 S1 ; Physical drive 2 goes forwards
M569 P1 S1 ; Physical drive 1 goes forwards
M569 P3 S0 ; Physical drive 3 goes forwards
M569 P4 S0 ; Physical drive 4 goes forwards
M584 X0 Y2 Z1 E4 ; Apply custom drive mapping
M350 X32 Y32 I1 ; Configure microstepping with interpolation
M350 Z8 E16:16 I1 ; Configure microstepping with interpolation
M92 X160 Y160 Z2723.7354 E413:413 ; Set steps per mm
M566 X4000 Y2000 Z60 E2500:270.00 ; Set maximum instantaneous speed changes (mm/min)
M203 X27000 Y20000 Z350 E3600:3600 ; Set maximum speeds (mm/min)
M201 X1500.00 Y1500 Z60 E3000:3000 ; Set accelerations (mm/s^2)
M906 X1000.00 Y1400 Z1100 E1560 I35 ; Set motor currents (mA) and motor idle factor in per cent
M84 S30 ; Set idle timeout

; Axis Limits
M208 X0 Y0 Z0 S1 ; Set axis minima
M208 X450 Y295 Z430 S0 ; Set axis maxima

; Endstops
M574 X1 Y2 S1 ; Set active high endstops

; Z-Probe
M574 Z2 S2 ; Set endstops controlled by probe
M307 H3 A-1 C-1 D-1 ; Disable heater on PWM channel for BLTouch
M558 P9 H5 F100 T2000 ; Set Z probe type to bltouch and the dive height + speeds
G31 P25 X27.72 Y-25 Z1.7 ; Set Z probe trigger value, offset and trigger height
M557 X0:450 Y5:295 S50 ; Define mesh grid
M671 X14:14:450:450 Y285:25:25:295 S1.0 P0.5 F1.0

; Heaters
M307 H0 B0 S1.00 ; Disable bang-bang mode for the bed heater and set PWM limit
M305 P0 T100000 B4138 R4700 ; Set thermistor + ADC parameters for heater 0
M143 H0 S120 ; Set temperature limit for heater 0 to 120C
M305 P1 T100000 B4092 R4700 ; Set thermistor + ADC parameters for heater 1
M143 H1 S270 ; Set temperature limit for heater 1 to 300C

; Fans
M106 P0 S0 I0 F500 H T45 ; Set fan 0 value, PWM signal inversion and frequency. Thermostatic control is turned on
M106 P1 S1 I0 F500 H1 T45 ; Set fan 1 value, PWM signal inversion and frequency. Thermostatic control is turned on

; Tools
M563 P0 D0 H1 ; Define tool 0
G10 P0 X0 Y0 Z0 ; Set tool 0 axis offsets
G10 P0 R0 S0 ; Set initial tool 0 active and standby temperatures to 0C

too be honest I spent about a year on this conversion and I can say it's easier to build a new printer from scratch.

There's really nothing from the power distribution board of any use. all you need is the 24v power supply. The only difference is the uPrint SE has a slightly larger build volume and can handle 4 spools.

The reason I want to be able to control the fans is so that I can turn them off for the first layer or for certain materials that don't need the airflow.

@mrehorstdmd it has thermal fuses for that exact situation. the heater is hidden and cant be accessed unless you seriously disassembled the machine.

At the moment I'm testing with PLA but the goal is to print Nylon and PC. I'm able to print at about 130mm/s with 275mm/s travels

The issue I have with those solutions is that the same fans which blow air past the heating elements are also responsible for part cooling as they blow air onto the model from both sides. There is a 2nd fan that brings in cold air from the outside and blows onto the cold zone, stepper motor and the part.

This printer is going to be used by a high school robotics club to print Nylon and it has to be super safe. I just don't want the heaters to be able to be turned on without the fan first being enabled.

I've been working on retrofitting a stratasys uprint and from the duet documentation I can't figure out a way to activate a fan if a heating element is active. I don't want thermostatic control sense the thermistor is located in the build chamber and the fans have to be active for the tempature to rise.
This printer has two very powerful 600 watt heating elements with large radial fans blowing air past them, it's very important that air be blowing anytime the heating elements are turned on.
Thanks!

Only took a year, I have to say this was much harder then building a printer from scratch.

My config files are located here if anyone else wishes to do the same. Now that I've done all the hard work It won't be too hard to convert these machines.
https://github.com/drphil3d/stratasys/blob/master/README.md

CAD Files for the extruder adapter mount https://a360.co/2ZEHYXw
Panel Due mounting bracket https://a360.co/31LCPhZ
Blank LCD bracket https://a360.co/31Mda8Y
4mm to 6mm PTFE Adapter https://a360.co/2IurMCe

Video of operation https://photos.app.goo.gl/3UqF72nFuzfWhSet6

Wiring