@Peter-Lebiedzinski
Hi Peter, I received your email.
Any recommendations as to where the camera should be placed?
I ask because while I was researching other versions of monitoring software, they stated that the camera should be looking at the table at no more than a specified angle above the build surface.
Thank you for keeping me in the loop.
DNvM
Hello, everyone, thank you for the replies.
As my final entry what I have done is place M1 at the end of my End G-Code.
And that does exactly what I need it to do.
Again, thank you for all off your suggestions and help.
One last question. How do I mark this as solved?
@engikeneer
Thank you for your reply.
I understand my way of thinking is based on a very hypothetical possibility.
With working around machines and tools all my life it is just the way I think.
Thank you for the information, I will have to look into that relay system.
@Phaedrux
Thank you for your patience and the detail of your explanations.
@phaedrux
You are correct. I see Active as powered on, even if the temperature equals zero.
When you look at the PanelDue the heater icon is red, again showing me that the heater is powered on.
What do I do when I start using dual print heads? If T-1 only deselects the current head then the other head will stay in standby mode. And if it has a set temperature it will stay hot.
I don't understand why there is not an easy way to turn the heater power off. Not just set the temp to zero. To me this is a safety hazard. Hypothetical if this was a manufacturing setting there is no way a company would allow the heater to stay energized. All it would take is one mistake and somebody could get burns.
Again thank you for you help.
@phaedrux
So does that mean I need T-0 and T-1?
Thank you.
@phaedrux
Hello, so I placed the following M568 codes in Cura and unfortunately it made no difference.
;End G-Code
M568 P0 A0
M568 P1 A0
;Retract the filament
G92 E1
G1 E-1 F300
G28 X0 Y0
M84
I know you state that it makes no difference but I personally dislike the idea of the heater being active.
So if you have any other ideas I would like to hear them.
Maybe I should also contact Modix support and see what they say.
Thank you.
@phaedrux
I added the M568 lines to the End G-Code and I will run a test print.
I really appreciate your help.
@phaedrux
You are correct I am getting confused.
When working through the Web Controller the heater has three settings.
Off, Active, and Standby. Before updating to 3.3 when a print was finished the heater would be turned off.
If just setting the temperature to zero turns off the heater why have the option to turn the heater off?
That is why I am confused.
Thank you.
@phaedrux
In Cura I have the following:
M104 S0
M140 S0
:Retract The Filament
G92 E1
G1 E-1 F300
G28 X0 Y0
M84
I do understand the idea that if the temperature is set to zero the heater is basically off. But like I mentioned in two places it states that the heater is still considered "Active".
So if I understand, if I put T-0 and T-1 in the "End G-Code that will deactivate the heaters?
Or is it better to say:
M568 P0 A0
M568 P1 A0
I am not worried about what the active temperature reads as long as the heaters are deactivated.
Thank you again for all of your help.
@phaedrux
Thank you for the reply.
According to Duet Web Control and on the touch panel the heater is still active. Somehow the temperature setting has been set to zero.
I want the heater to be turned off.
Sorry I should have better explained that.
Hopefully this will be an easy fix.
My machine is a Modix Big-60.
Duet Wifi 2, firmware 3.3 2021-06-15
Duet Web Control 3.3.0
Panel Due 3.4.0
After a print is finished, I noticed that the heater for extruder zero is still powered on. Luckily the temperature for the heater is zero degrees.
I searched for either a G or M code that I could place in the post processing (in Cura) to turn off the heater.
I could not find one, and that is why I am here asking for your help.
I don't know if it matters but this machine has two print heads. I have not used head number one yet. I would assume that the same code would turn off both heaters at the same time.
If there is more than adding a single line, could you please be very detailed in how to do what is needed. When it comes to programming, I need a lot of help.
Thank you very much for all of your support.
So here is the latest update.
The printer is printing at the thinner layers.
I had to adjust the G31 "Z" value.
I plan to continue testing to be 100% sure everything is the way I want it.
@Phaedrux
When you posted the photo of your code. At the very bottom you have a M30. According to Duet that code is to delete a file. Is that supposed to be the G30 you were trying to point out?
I still hope to learn more about the G30 code.
Thank you everyone for your help.
I compared your files to mine, and they are very different. In fact, I don't have a mesh.g file.
bed.g homeall.g config.g
I am getting really close. I edited line G31 "Z". Now I just need to determine if the table compensation is even working. Normally I don't care because I usually only print smaller items. But I have some items to print that will use more of the bed.
Thank you for all of your help.
Just a quick update. Modix has contacted me and somehow, I got tagged as spam. I will keep you updated on their suggestions along with working with all of you.
@phaedrux said in First layer will not print less than .30mm:
Are you using mesh compensation yet? What does your heightmap look like?
Yes I ran the Bed Compensation macro. heightmap 02-21-2022.csv
@rjenkinsgb said in First layer will not print less than .30mm:
It would normally be in the slicer start-up gcode section, as part of configuring the slicer for your specific machine.
I looked at the "Machine Settings/Start G-code", in CURA, and I do not have a G30 in my start code.
Should it be M30 like in your code?
Thank you everyone for your help.
@rjenkinsgb
Hello, no currently there is a .10mm difference between set print thickness and actual measured thickness. But only when I try to print at .20mm. The thickness numbers, I believe you are referring to, are based on me doing baby steps. I adjusted a total of -.10mm.
So, my concern is if I adjust G31, and it allows me to print at .20mm, will it cause a .30mm first layer height setting to measure at .20mm.
Where do I find G30? If it is normally located in the config.g file I will have to add it.
Would you have an example of what that line should like?
Thank you for your support.
@o_lampe
So, I am ready to answer Q3.
I was able to baby step the nozzle -.10mm.
And when I measured the skirt and the cube I was around .22mm to .26mm.
But it still had no bonding between extrusions.
I had calibrated the extruder, but I will have to recheck it.
The question now is how to get the machine to print at .20mm on its own?
Thank you for your help.
@rjenkinsgb
If you mean changing the Z in the G31 line, I have not tried that because I was concerned it would cause changes to prints like the .30mm thick part.
I am not familiar with the G30. But I don't think that is happening because homing of the axis happens in the back left corner. And Z Offset calibration happens in the front left.
Thank you for your help.
@o_lampe
Q1: The printed lines were slightly separated.
Q2: When I did the Z-Height calibration I used a .20mm feeler gauge. Otherwise, no.
Q3: I will run this test later this morning.
I forgot to mention in my initial post that when I ran the .30mm test I watched the coordinates displayed on the lcd and is showed Z at .30mm. When I ran the .20mm test the coordinates displayed on the lcd showed Z at .20mm.
Thank you for the help.
Hello, I am hoping someone here can help me.
I own a Modix Big-60. Yes, I have contacted Modix support. Unfortunately, they have stop responding to my emails.
I recently updated my printer by adding a second print head.
After updating the firmware (was still 2.x) I ran the Z-Offset calibration. I then entered that number into my G31 "Z" line.
I ran a print test where the part was 20mm square by .20mm thick. The first layer setting, in the slicer, was .20mm. The part measured around .25mm thick.
I tried tweaking the Z number, as I had done when I calibrated for the single print head, but nothing changed.
I contacted Modix and the person I talked to had me change the M208 "Z" to a larger negative number. Nothing changed.
That is when it was suggested I update my firmware to 3.3.
After getting everything converted to the new firmware, I re-adjusted the BL touch, I ran Tilt Calibration, and I ran the Z-Offset Calibration.
After all of that I am back to square one. When I ran my print test again now the part measures .30mm thick.
I tried two more tests.
I use CURA as my slicer, but I tried Simplified 3D to see if it was a slicer issue. Nope same results. Then I created a part that was 20mm square by .30mm thick. I set my first layer thickness to .30mm and it printed perfect.
The last test Modix support had me try was a BL Touch Repeatability test. After ten triggers it stated that the deviation was .007mm.
So now you have a condensed version of my story and why I need your help.
Thank you for your help.
That worked.
Thank you very much for your help.