Posts made by DIY-O-Sphere

@RogerL
Please check the content of resume.g.

@droftarts
For push-pull M567 also is missing....

@Tinchus
I would suggest the following additions or changes:
In config.g

; ENDSTOPS
M574 X1 S1 P"!io8.in"
M574 Y1 S1 P"!io6.in"
M574 Z1 S2                         ; configure Z-probe endstop for low end on Z

; bltouch
M950 S0 C"io7.out"               ;change S2 to S0        
M558 P9 C"io7.in" H5 F100 T3000 R0.2
G31 X-7 Y37 Z3.73 P25 ; bltouch offsets
M557 X7:193 Y18:195 S26.5:29.5      ; define mesh grid

In deployprobe.g

M280 P0 S10               ;change P2 to P0 

In retractprobe.g

M280 P0 S90               ;change P2 to P0 

@TomasL
Depending on what is needed, the positive voltages can be used together.
But then also pay attention to the cable cross-section

@Triet

M80

See the sub note in M81

@Tinchus
Sounds plausible to me, BL-Touch does not like magnetic fields.

@Tinchus said in Bltouch not deploy sometines it does:

I had exactly the same issue, that was driving me crazy....
check the pin
"Try loosening or tightening the set screw slightly to adjust the trigger sensitivity."
The description how to set up the srew is in the manual
In the end a quarter turn had reliably solved the problem.

@Jeronimo88

I have noticed that the limits of the old and new files are different. In addition, the old homing script uses hard-coded limits and the new variables dependent on config.g.
So first check the correct values and adjust them for M208 in config.g

@droftarts said in How hard is setting up CAN connected boards?:

Click on the "Connecting WITHOUT Duet 3 Tool Distribution Board" tab.

Oh yes, the tabs....I sometimes overlook them. I'm probably not the only one....

@droftarts said in How hard is setting up CAN connected boards?:

The problem I have for documentation is that there is hundreds of variations of ways to connect multiple boards together

In my opinion, no diagram is needed for such complex wiring. Such machines are only built by experts.
The documentation with the new diagrams is the right way to go.
The section "Expansion board connections" definitely needs illustrations / images.
It's a pity that the illustrations of wiring the 1LC are no longer available. Dozuki
Among those who voted with easy are some who started with the old documentation .....;-)

@carlinicompetizione said in Problems from the second layer to the 7th layer:

I need to add some command to the config. g to load and activate the created map?

There are several ways to do this.
I have added it to my homing routine.
But it also works at the end of the config.g. However, you must definitely call G29 before printing.
There are also several options for G29. I only load the saved map.
If the printer is stable, the mesh does not need to be recreated each time.

@carlinicompetizione
Check the grid spacing in M557 that doesn't make sense to me.
You have only defined 4 points in the grid.

@Charily_Antics_343
You can find the schematic here.
It is TR8.

@stellator
I think you're getting two things mixed up.
One is the mounting of the plate. And the other is the kinematics for levelling. First of all, these are not necessary related.
What you mean by virtual pivot point is the point around which the tolerance compensation occurs in a static system.
The kinematics could be attached to completely different points. Usually, however, the balls are used. These then become the points around which the plate can rotate as a system.
For the firmware, it doesn't matter where the virtual point is. The plane is defined by the three points that are attached to the plate and can be adjusted in height......

@dlc60
I assume you are using M501 at the end of your config.
At least that's what I saw in another post.
This means that the config.g is always overwritten with the values from the config-override.g.
Please check whether a different value is stored here for G31.
If you change values, the current status must be written with M500.
In your case M500 G31.

@JayT
I first had plain bearings that were changed to linear ball bearings. But install branded bearings here. I once had cheap bearings for Z that worked very badly. You notice it when you move the separated bearing by hand. They have an uneven, choppy running. Especially when changing direction.
Which cannot be checked when installed:
Put the bearing on the rod and tilt it until it starts running on its own.
Then tilt the rod to the other direction.
On the subject of tilting or distortion of the axle:
Push the axis to one end and check whether the axis comes to rest on both sides at the same time.
Push alternately on one side or the other.

@JayT
This behavior can be based on binding of the linear bearings or skewed axles.
I had the identical issue. After changing the bearings to higher quality ones, the problem was solved.
Remove the belts and move the axles by hand. they should not snap when the direction is changed.
This may be caused by linear axles not being aligned exactly parallel.
Can you show pictures of the mechanics?

Edit:
You can also see that the wall thickness varies a lot.

@Arminas said in Belt/idler issue and motors temperature:

I guess it's some kind of mechanical misalignment - when printhead moves in one direction, belt goes up to the upper flange of bearing stack. When printhead moves in opposite direction, belt slips down and jumps on the bottom flange. Any ideas?

The axle of the pulley is not perpendicular to the running direction of the belt.
The support probably consists of an upper and a lower plate. If they are only slightly offset from each other, this causes the problem.

@Adamrobot
This has nothing to do with a problem in the power supply unit.
You have to check whether the heating cartridge is made for 12V or 24V.
Either check the marking on the sleeve or measure the internal resistance.
In general 24v supply voltage would be an advantage. However, you then also have to replace the heating bed and maybe the fans.

@izeman
https://forum.duet3d.com/topic/33529/euclid-probe-unnecessary-docking