Posts made by Dino

E3D also makes brass nozzles down to 0.15mm

https://e3d-online.com/nozzles-v6-brass

Hooray, I'm glad you got things sorted, the duet is a fantastic board, as for your fans there's plenty of posts regarding hooking 12v fans up to a 24v system. Basically you can use a buck converter to go from 24v to 12v and feed that into either the middle pin of the fan selector jumper or into the + lead on a fan, as long as you're connecting the - to the fan connector of your choice your fans will work.

@mrehorstdmd As I have mentioned before, most self resetting fuses do work this way, power is cut but a small amount of leakage current prevents the fuse from self resetting until the issue is remedied. By all means run multiple fuses, but you can save yourself effort by having the initial cut out be a self resetting fuse, that way if the SSR fails the heatbed stops heating and you replace the SSR without needing to do any actual wiring work to the heatbed.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Resettable_fuse

@dc42 I'll second this, I set up firmware retraction on my delta two weeks ago, you really need to use post processing in order to get the G10 and G11 commands inserted into the right spot.

The script is pretty simple, just use a known speed and distance and then post process to replace those moves with G10 and G11.

http://thrinter.com/using-firmware-retraction-with-simplify3d/

This will work well, but he's using absolute extrusion distances, so you'll need to edit his script a small amount.

Just open a gcode file you've sliced in a text editor and double check the post processing has been done properly.

@pro3d if you're using an e3d hotend @DjDemonD sells the pt1000s on his web store.

https://www.precisionpiezo.co.uk/product-page/pt1000-sensor

Is your SSR hooked up the right way? When I first set mine up I had the polarity backwards and it wouldn't heat when I tried to tune it. I flipped the leads going into it and it's been fine ever since.

As a slight aside I spent most of my Saturday setting up pressure advance on my delta, part of that included using firmware retraction.

I use S3D as my primary slicer on the delta and for $150 software it doesn't have a nice checkbox to enable firmware retraction I used post processing scripts I found here:

http://thrinter.com/using-firmware-retraction-with-simplify3d/

I had to turn off relative extrusion distances to get the script to work properly but now that it's setup it seems to be pretty nice.

Only thing I noticed was if I sent all the parameters for retraction distance, speed, unretract extra distance, and zhop together in the same command the zhop wouldn't apply. I added a second command and moved the zhop command to it which seems to have fixed it.

I have all my default retraction gcode in my config.g and have alterations of it in the start gcode commands for different filament if different retraction is needed. Plus the ability to make on the fly changes to retraction is fantastic, I can disable retraction mid print or add more shop if I need, or even print multiple retraction tests at once with different settings easily.

@danal What type of self resetting fuse is it if you know? I kind of regret not getting one built into my bed, Even though I have redundant safety measures as well an extra one wouldn't have been bad.

@mrehorstdmd my example was also worst case, if there's a polyfuse or other latching type resetting thermal fuse it will continue to leak a small amount of current when tripped, maintaining its temperature and preventing itself from resetting until the current is removed. Like you said they are safety devices and are designed as such.

@mrehorstdmd self resetting will just act as a poorly tuned bang-bang.

Temperature will rise above the fuse threshold, open the circuit, this will allow the temperature to cool below the reset threshold, the fuse will close allowing current to flow and the bed to resume heating until the temperature again rises above the threshold and the cycle repeats endlessly maintaining a temperature close to the two thresholds.

It is of course less than ideal as a dead stop in case of a fault is preferred, but depending on how the fuse is wired changing it may not be an easy task.

@rcarlyle It looks like it would work really well, but I just couldn't justify dropping $65usd on a filament sensor.

I just had a doozy of a clog this morning, somehow I managed to break off a jam just above the neck of the heatbreak, heating up the heatblock on my volcano didn't soften it, even taking the cooling fan off and leaving it at 285c for 20 minutes wasn't enough to let me push the clog out. Ended up completely disassembling my smart effector and pulling just the heatbreak out of the hotend and then melting out the clog with a heat gun while pushing it out gently with a 1.5mm allen key.

Worst clog I've had in just over a year of printing, only one that's actually required more than just taking a direct drive off.

Everything is back together now and seems to be free and clear

@ak-eric

On the e3d forums they've said that the theoretical maximum on the volcano is 40 cubic mm/s and the v6 is 15 cubic mm/s.

I have managed to get close to that maximum flow rate on my volcano with a nimble extruder.

1mm nozzle: 1.2mm extrusion width x 0.75mm layers at 30mm/s = 27 cubic mm/s

I attempted printing at 50mm/s but was stalling out the extruder on fast print moves as the volume extruded was 45 cubic mm/s at those speeds. I didn't spend much more time finding the absolute maximum but could possibly do so. (44 mm/s would put it just below 40 cubic mm/s)

I am using a 24v 30w heater in my volcano, using typical temperatures for pla (200°c), same as on my v6, volcano nozzle temperatures remained consistent even though the extruder was stalling, so I don't believe a higher wattage heater cartridge will improve volumetric output. As Tony said wattage is more a function of maximum temperature.

I have not yet attempted to test if increasing the nozzle temperature impacts the maximum volumetric output as I assumed it would have a negative impact on areas where the speeds are low enough that the volumetric output is within the limit of the volcano.

What is your dive speed set to?

I had issues with the configuration tool generating gcode where the dive speed was too low, instead of probing normally it would just slowly lower the nozzle into the bed without triggering the smart effector.

Once I corrected the gcode to the one found on the wiki it calibrated properly.

It's a lot like a 3 legged stool vs a 4 legged stool, have you ever sat on a wobbly 3 legged stool?

I use 3 wheeled carriages on my delta, the triangular load distribution makes it super simple to get the clamping load on the wheels balanced and stable.

4 wheels will definitely still work though, it may be more work to get the carriages stable, and they may be more stable in the long run once everything is balanced.

There are ways to run the converters for each individual fan, I don't believe you can pwm through them but (if I remember correctly) the switching is done through the ground, your setup is much more complicated as you have multiple different voltages. That said there should be a way to get it to work.

My printer is using a 24v PSU and 12v fans, if possible I would be inclined to switch your 5v fans to 12v just for the sake of only dealing with two voltages and having all the fans on a standard voltage.

I am running a single 24v -> 12v step down converter from my PSU with the + lead of the converter connected to the middle pin on the fan selector, this feeds 12v into the fan circuits and they all behave as if I was running them off a 12v PSU.

However I am unsure of how to deal with the water pumps and other peripherals, it may be beneficial to instead of using a step down use a second 12v PSU to drive those devices

@peter247 I don't quite understand what you mean. When using an AC heated bed you can get away with using a much lower wattage PSU than if you are using a large DC heatbed.

Since the power from the wall is AC it doesn't need to be converted to DC by the PSU. Therefore the PSU only needs to power fans, control board, steppers, hotend heater and anything else.

My AC heatbed is connected to the IEC where I get mains power for the whole printer. I'm considering switching my PSU to a lower wattage passively cooled one since the mean well SP-320-24 has a loud fan and has a ton of overhead.

@mike definitely, that's a great idea too, with the inherent dangers running an AC bed something as simple as that could save your bacon if your SSR fails and your heater ends up on thermal runaway.

As an aside to shipping speeds, I ordered a bed from Keenovo off eBay. Living in Canada, overseas packages can take at minimum a month to arrive, occasionally over two full months. My keenovo bed was at my door just over a week after I ordered it.

They'll also work with you to make a custom bed for your printer, so if you have an oddball design they're definitely the ones to go with.