To the Duet3D Gang, A BIG thanks.

I just blew my AUX FAN fuse while messing with loose connectors for my induction probe (my Z Probe).
I've had issues with loose connectors happen on my MelziV2, RAMPS1.4 and RAMPS1.6 boards in the past. It usually led to the death of the board and my having to buy a replacement.

With my DuetV2 WiFi, the fuse blew and the board was saved while continuing to work in every other way.

This is the level of engineering and the attention to detail I was looking for when I sought out a Duet board.

So, just a HUGE THANKS for your better engineering practices Deut3D !!!

Now... Where do I get replacement fuses and the proper puller tool?

I haven't yet done this as I'm probably going to figure out how to make use of my AruCam(s), but here is a setup that seems to have worked: https://forum.duet3d.com/post/90344

@bot Nice job!

That thing looks like it could print a tank in an earthquake

Love the feet
More than solid looking and a really well though out design.

Congrats on the sweet machine.

@doctrucker Canadain Tire carried the LittleFuz Mini Fuses in 1, 2, 7.5 and 15 AMP. for only a couple bucks a pack (varied from 2 to 5 pcs. / pack).

Up and running now without the need to wait for some AliExpress junk to arrive in a month.

This is the place I've wanted to be for a while and glad I made the move to go premium.
This is a great forum with lots of very helpful people, great vendor and awesome re-seller support.

This is as good as it gets in the 3D Printer world in my experience.

Now it's time to setup my config files.

Have a look at my exact same Z-Probe.
My issue is resolved when printing on the original TronXY bed with 3mm glass:
https://forum.duet3d.com/topic/10048/adding-a-tronxy-xy-08n-inductive-sensor-min-z-stop

This will resolve your issue and the thread identifies the electrical hookups and the gcode settings for your config.g

I'm sure this will solve your issue as well.

@bot I think you must mean "perfect benchies". Beautiful machine.

@voodoobane Yes, this post was actually one of the reasons I started to look into the Duet boards.
As funny as it is, I can contest... It not B.S.

I think this is an excellent selling tool. Funny and true

@bot Thanks for the feedback.

Actually, I have been working extensively on not returning, but understanding the root cause of this issue.
I'm far from someone who would just assemble stuff and push it out the door.
I've been developing open-source software and IoT systems/solutions for some time with great success in the Learning and Development world.
I don't expect, or seek, profit but rather to provide the best possible product; hence the reason I'm trying this combination. I simply want a premium product to be - a premium product - that I know I can support without question later - be it for myself or a client.

This is not at all my mainstream business, nor would it ever be. Sometimes selling something to someone with no profit - even a loss - is far more profitable in the end.

I cater to the education industry - so definitely not money hungry

@dc42 Just confirmed.
D0 is dead, D1 works.

Thanks for helping me to get running as I wait for your further direction on who to contact for the replacement board.

Thanks for the info.
I'll change me config.g and see if I can get that to work before replacing the board so I can fully and decisively identify what is, and is not functioning on the board.

It definitely is your genuine one. I'm not a fan of Chinese knock-offs.

If you re-read my OP, I had swapped cables with my Y Stepper and the problem followed the Duet2 port. I also swapped steppers and the problem followed the Duet2 port.

As I purchased this through Spool3D Canada on April 09, 2019, do I contact them for a replacement?

I had a nozzle clog last week.
After clearing the clog by replacing the throat and nozzle at the heater block with new ones, I then went to test everything.
It all worked for about 2 minutes then, I went to retract and only heard a single click from my E0 extruder motor.
I tried to Extract and got no response from the motor.
No smoke happened or anything.

Next I swapped the extruder motor wiring with my Y-Axis wiring and found the extruder motor works fine and the Y-Axis motor did that single click with no further responses.
The problem followed the motor end of the cable.
I then swapped them back and swapped the board end of the cables.
The problem followed the boards ports.

In summary, my E0 motor plug on my Duet2 Wifi is fried - no idea how it happened.
Upon close (magnifying glass close) inspection, the board has no signs of burning and nothing crossing any of the conductive paths or solder points.

My config.g has this motor addressed as M569 P3 S1
I tried to set it to M569 P4 S1, but hat hung my board.

How can I switch over to use my E1 motor port on my board?

Looking at it now, the driver chip is shared between the E0 and E1 stepper motor ports. Correct?

If that chip is fried, I'd rather not trust my soldering skills to replace it (or any other chip on this board to be honest). How can I troubleshoot this down to the chip that is at fault (1 only have a digital multimeter)?

@theruleslawyer When you mention the screenprint. If you mean what you see in the images on AliExpress, those are the original Duet3D board images that people are using instead of displaying images of their own boards.
This is the AliExpress equivalent of "click-bate" and one of the reasons I (personally) never buy there - you never know what you will actually get from AliExpress.

I only ever bought an electronics board from ALiExpress once and what I got was not only a different and extremely inferior product, but not even the same color as what they presented in their product page.
The specs. they provided were "sparse" and failed to mention they were accurate, meaning what they did not tell you - actually did not exist - this excluded things like inline fuses for critical circuits and any voltage protection on-board. These are features that, when missing, can kill either the board or even you in the end.

Beyond those critical things, AliExpress is too legally distant for us to have any enforceable buyers rights as well so when you buy from them, it's always at your own peril.

@the-doc I never buy from China. This is specifically why I always buy from official channels.
As I've said many times here and in other forums; my reasons for buying from official channels:

1. Quality. I'll bet the clone you receive does'n't have any of the safeguards that are built into the original boards. (In my experience) Be very careful with your wiring.
2. Support. Your experience... You have to pay to return it.
3. Support. (in my experience) Official re-sellers know what they are talking about, they can respond without ambiguity and in your language since they are local to your country.
4. Customer service. (In my experience) No run-around and diversions in delaying or trying to avoid proper customer service. When you buy from a Duet official re-seller, you are treated like gold and promptly.

I would flip the cost to return the Chinese junk (send it back on the slowest / cheapest boat you can find) and get an original.

@dougal1957 That is exactly what I have been using. Exact same kit. It worked great.

@pauljsr I agree with @Veti .
Sounds like your tempurature is too high or to low for the type of filament you're using.
I also understand the response from @chas2706 , but in your case, it seems pretty consistent "gets stuck after a few layers" which tells me there is a cool-down happening in your hotend. A few layers, based on a similar print size, would have this effect.

@dc42 Sorry for the delayed response. My son was married over the weekend.
My thoughts are the same as yours. Is How would I test the output voltage of the Duet2 WiFi for this specific setup?

@fcwilt Sorry for the late reply. My son got married over the weekend.

Using the ferrals on the Duet2 WiFi board, they all work great. I crimp the ferrals 3 times to ensure they get a very small inside diameter and they fit nice and tight over the posts. I can actually pick up the board by grabbing any single wire and they do not come loose or come off.
Given this, however, it is still a temporary job so I'm only doing this until I get the exact right solution with better JST crimpers.

As for the ferrals going into the green blocks, same thing, but I also flatten those a bit then let the clamps squeeze them down.

@fcwilt I use similar.

Yes, I'm aware the wire gauges for thermistors and such are 26AWG (usually) and most other wiring is 24AWG (fans and steppers for example) with the exception of PSU wires.

Too late to return it and it is useful for other things around the house.
What I've settled with (for the interm) is using ferrels with my other crimper designed for them. I even got some ferrels to crimp wires 2 wires together. Works great, but not my end game.
The crimper I bought: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07M8G5R34/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The wire joiners I bought: https://spool3d.ca/ferrules-for-joining-wires-pack-of-10/
I bought 2 packs of these.
This is also where I bought my Duet2 WiFi and PanelDue 7