Try using Mike's page to figure out what you are doing wrong.
But be careful the board he is using is not the latest and the Johnsl board is connected to different pins than required on the Duet Wifi.
http://www.sublimelayers.com/2016/01/fsr-auto-calibration-setup-for-duet.html
I don't know what I'm doing and I was able to figure it out using that.
Also delete the Deploy and retract files in the SYS directory.
Are you using the JOHNSL FSR ENDSTOP BOARD?
Do you have them set with a jumper to use as as switch?
For all those who spent hours of frustration trying to use the auto calibration with FSR sensor DELETE THE PROBE FILES from the SYS directory!! I just spent all day yesterday trying to figure out why everything was working except would not save any corrections.
Then came across this post.
You have to scroll down to see the release dc42 refers to because 1.20 is out now as well.
dc42 thank you for all you do! You are Amazing!
Thanks Walter, But I have to step that up to 5V going into the motor, Correct?
I think I need the Expansion board in order to have them in series?
The Wiki says that the DuetWifi has "dual Z motor" inputs but does not have dual X & Y.
I think the RUMBA that is on there now has them going into another board.
@ DC42
I was reading the Wiki and on the using external drivers page under the Overview last sentence "Otherwise, you should use 3.3V to 5V level shifting ICs such as 74HCT04 to boost the signal level to 5V and drive them. You can use the Duet expansion breakout board for this purpose."
To get my Motors up to the 5V they need I can use your expansion break out board?
Would I also need SILENT STEP STICK - TMC2100 STEPPER MOTOR DRIVER?
I do have (2) motors per axis so would I need one step stick per motor?
My motors are the TSM23P-2AG.
LokBuild Sticks TOO good? I only cracked my glass bed 1M sq! I pulled up on the part instead of "scrapping" off.
Switched to Alum Plate MUCH CHEAPER, and will not crack!
I have found using Lokbuild without heat bed for prints that are 24+hrs and 350 to 400mm sq. I do not get as much warp and corner pull. With PETG I do need the Heat Bed.
I do not have a sensor now so worst thing is I spent 25 bucks on something that I will use on the next project.
Bed surface is like everything else with 3D Printing, some like this some like that, and everyone is happy to share their experiences.
We are all looking for the Magic button to hit and get our print out perfect and under 20 minutes. A Man can Dream right?
How do you Know she's a witch? She turned me into a Newt, well I got better. BURN HER ANYWAY!
Right So IR Sensor it is then.
I have a call into A-M about the input voltage, as you say 3.3V should work, I would expect with the holiday here I will not hear from them until next week.
If the motor needs 5V is there a work around for that?
All I really need at the moment is a yes or no answer as I will order the parts this weekend and I won't get them till next week.
Thanks again for your help!
I Don't Know that AHHHHHHHH.
The LokBuild I have is actually Blue made for a distributor in the States NWA 3D.
Walter is correct it is opaque.
@ Walter Saw your Tag Line - So Answer me this "What is the airspeed velocity of an unladen Swallow?" Sorry Had a Monty Python Flash Back!
@ Walter You are correct I do want to increase the Micro Steps I guess that is the main point in up grading. I should be able to do this in the A-M Software. I will Contact them. Motor is the MST I have to get the model number from A-M.
@ dc42
My Bed is Alum Plate with LokBuild on the surface. LokBuild is the only think I have found to keep large thin prints from warping.
On the motor it states input 12 - 70 input voltage. But I think the Power for the motor is not supplied by the board itself, I think only signal wires are connected to the board. I will look at the Wiring diagram and track that out.
Thanks for your input!