I found a setting in KISSlicer, ticked a box for "Fan can do PWM" and added "P0" to the fan on command to specify the layer fan. I'll see how it goes but it seems like the right track. Thanks for the help!
Posts made by COMMLXIV
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RE: Layer fan not working
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RE: Layer fan not working
Interesting, the GCode from KISSlicer just seems to send M106 then M107. I guess the slicer software needs to be configured to send a proper M106 command with parameters?
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RE: Layer fan not working
Tried that just now, it works fine. But during a print the fan doesn't run and the Duet control screen just shows a series of error messages.
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RE: Odd PT-100 behaviour after firmware update
It does seem to have been a mechanical issue after all, thanks
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Layer fan not working
Hi,
I've just recently finished a rebuild of my printer, the major change is a 24V high pressure layer fan (BerdAir 24V). The fan takes a PWM signal from the Duet but is powered straight from the PSU. It works flawlessly from the main control but seems to be having issues when instructed by GCode (see picture), basically it won't run during an actual print. If I start it manually it runs for about one second before being stopped.http://tinypic.com/r/30cq547/9
Any ideas on what's upsetting Duet?
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Odd PT-100 behaviour after firmware update
Hi,
I recently updated all my firmware and immediately began getting errors from my temperature sensor. Basically it went from working perfectly to reading 2000, which could be rectified by sending M305 P1 X0, then M305 P1 X200, then M562. I found that wriggling the cables near the effector platform could induce the error.I tried to nail down the cause: I reconfigured the sensor to be a four wire setup using twisted pair wires, then checked and replaced electrical connections, then finally replaced the PT-100 sensor. It still happens. I think it may be the result of the PT-100 cables being close to one of the other signals coming to the effector platform (hot end fan or IR height sensor) and having some signal induced in them, since I can cause the error to appear by manipulating the cable bundle near the effector (I have checked for damaged insulation and shorts). The problem there is that this happens when the printer is at standby, not just when the hotend and fan are working. I'm about to start disconnecting wires at the Duet to see if I can isolate a set of wires somehow causing interference.
Can anyone suggest to me:
1.) A good way to diagnose the cause.
2.) Why this only started happening after a firmware upgrade? -
RE: Voltage Regulator issue, 24V to 12V
Are you sure the LEDs still work if you connect them to a 12V supply?
Yep, checked a couple of times, worked my way down from >8kOhm to 100Ohm, no light, but the LED array worked after, so it's not like a bunch of current got through and cooked it during my tests. I'll try again from high resistance values but using a different ground connection, maybe the hotend fan.
The hotend is working nicely as a hotend, which is the most important thing. The hotend LED array is ultimately just bling, so if things get too hard I'll put it in a box somewhere and use it for a later project.
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RE: Voltage Regulator issue, 24V to 12V
Thanks, I'm tinkering with resistors now, but note that even <100 Ohm doesn't result in the LEDs lighting. I put a multimeter across the hotend wires and it showed ~-8V, not 24 I suppose this is something to do with the PWM on the hotend.
I'm going to try using a resistor from the hotend 24V supply and using the ground wire for the hotend fan (which I have as not using PWM), see if that works. I have other applications in my printer for the buck regulator, so nothing will be wasted.
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RE: Voltage Regulator issue, 24V to 12V
Thanks, I'm trying to figure out the forward current for the piddly SMD LEDs on this LED module, so that I can test a resistor solution. Out of curiosity, when a hotend is being brought up to a setpoint temperature would PWM be in use, or would it just be constantly on until approaching a the setpoint then rapidly switching to maintain?
Because the regulator blew within two seconds of starting the hotend heating. Trying to develop my understanding of how this stuff works
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RE: Voltage Regulator issue, 24V to 12V
Though now I think about it, why would rapid switching kill the buck regulator? So long as the voltage on the input side stayed within limits (0-36V for this regulator). Do they just not tolerate rapidly changing loads?
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RE: Voltage Regulator issue, 24V to 12V
The issue with the design as you have it is that the hotend circuit switches (via PWM) the low side so the voltage across the BUCK +LED circuit will switch rapidly from 24V to 0V .
If you want to use the 24V already present at the hotend to power the LED (to reduce the wiring?) you need to provide a seperate GND line so it's a constant 24V. At that point you can either use the BUCK or a resistor to drop the voltage/limit the current through the LED.
To avoid having to run another ground wire (a PITA if I want to run a wire inside one of the towers) can I use the ground wire from some other component on the effector to ground the buck regulator? So, the 24V positive from the hotend to the buck regulator's VIN, then connect GND on the buck regulator to the hot end fan GND wire? I don't really want to go a pure resistor solution because a.) I'm stubborn and I've started doing it this way and b.) seems like that resistor would have to dissipate a fair bit of power? Might not be too much, I'll find out what the LEDs use…
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Voltage Regulator issue, 24V to 12V
Hi,
I have upgraded my delta printer to Duet, and also changed the PSU to a 24V Meanwell 600W.I am still running a couple of items on the effector platform from 12V (Tricklaser LED ring, and Tricklaser Hot End LED indicator). To regulate 24V to 12V I am using Pololu buck regulators https://www.pololu.com/product/2846. The LED ring is powered by the buck regulator which is in parallel with the hot end fan. It works well.
The problem is with my hot end LED module (http://www.tricklaser.com/LED-hot-end-heating-indicator-module-RM-LED-HAT.htm), I hooked this up the same way as my LED lightring, except it is taking 24V from across the 24V hot end wires.
I figured (basic electronics knowledge only) that the regulator would drop the voltage to 12V and KCL would ensure the hot end LED module would only draw as much current as it needed through the regulator. Unfortunately as soon as I powered the hot end up there was a pop, and I saw the buck regulators soul escaping as smoke. The LED module connected to it is fine. Did I misunderstand how these things work? Would the fact that the hotend is drawing significant current somehow force the buck regulator connected across it (note, not in series with it) to dissipate much more power than it is capable of?
I'm hoping that someone more capable with electronics than myself can tell me if I did something stupid with my wiring, or if it all should have been OK (it's always possible that I got some solder across two pads or something when I hooked up the buck regulator).
Here's a photo of the setup:
This looks OK to my untrained eye, others might see some glaring fault… -
RE: Commissioning woes, cannot Home All
OK, just found an error: I had deleted "B" from in front of the printable radius at the M665 config line. Fixed that, and now things are working again. Thanks for getting me to post my config, it prompted me to read it with fresh eyes somehow
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RE: Commissioning woes, cannot Home All
; Homing file for RepRapFirmware on Mini Kossel, modified for Rostock Max V2
G91 ; use relative positioning
;******* Change F250 in the following line to F2500 when you are finished commissioning
;******* Change 320 in the following to a higher value if your Kossel has taller towers
G1 S1 X380 Y380 Z380 F2500 ; move all carriages up 380mm, stopping at the endstops
G1 S2 X-3 Y-3 Z-3 ; move all carriages down 3mm
G1 S1 X6 Y6 Z6 F250 ; move carriages slowly up 6mm, stopping at the endstops
G1 Z-5 F2000 ; down a few mm so that we can centre the head
G90 ; back to absolute positioning
G1 X0 Y0 F2000 ; centre the head and set a reasonable feed rate -
RE: Commissioning woes, cannot Home All
My calibration bed.g:
(Note that I have not modified any X or Y coordinates despite the fact that this is a Rostcok Max V2 bed, not a Mini Kossel); Auto calibration routine for delta printers
; Before running this, you should have set up your zprobe Z offset to suit your build, in the G31 command in config.g.M561 ; clear any bed transform, otherwise homing may be at the wrong height
G31 X0 Y0 ; don't want any probe offset for this
G28 ; home the printer;*** Remove the following line if your Z probe does not need to be deployed
; The first time the mechanical probe is used after deployment, it gives slightly different results.
; So do an extra dummy probe here. The value stored gets overwritten later. You can remove this if you use an IR probe.; Probe the bed and do 6- or 7-factor auto calibration
G30 P0 X-73.6 Y-42.5 Z-99999 ; X tower
G30 P1 X0 Y-85 Z-99999 ; between X and Y towers
G30 P2 X73.6 Y-42.5 Z-99999 ; Y tower
G30 P3 X73.6 Y20 Z-99999 ; between Y and Z towers
G30 P4 X0 Y67 Z-99999 ; Z tower
G30 P5 X-73.6 Y20 Z-99999 ; between Z and X towers
G30 P6 X-36.8 Y-21.25 Z-99999 ; half way to X tower
G30 P7 X36.8 Y-21.25 Z-99999 ; half way to Y tower
G30 P8 X0 Y42.5 Z-99999 ; half way to Z tower
G30 P9 X0 Y0 Z-99999 S6 ; centre, and auto-calibrate 6 factors;*** Remove the following line if your Z probe does not need to be retracted
G1 X0 Y0 Z150 F15000 ; get the head out of the way of the bed
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RE: Commissioning woes, cannot Home All
; Configuration file for Mini Kossel kit from Think3DPrint3D for testing Duet WiFi, modified for Rostock max V2
; Communication and general
M111 S0 ; Debug off
M550 PRostock Max V2 test ; Machine name and Netbios name (can be anything you like)
M551 Pduetwifi ; Machine password (used for FTP)
;*** If you have more than one Duet on your network, they must all have different MAC addresses, so change the last digits
M540 P0xBE:0xEF:0xDE:0xAD:0xFE:0xED ; MAC Address
;*** Wifi Networking
M552 S1 ; Enable WiFiM555 P2 ; Set output to look like Marlin
M575 P1 B57600 S1 ; Comms parameters for PanelDueG21 ; Work in millimetres
G90 ; Send absolute coordinates…
M83 ; ...but relative extruder moves; Axis and motor configuration
M569 P0 S1 ; Drive 0 goes forwards
M569 P1 S0 ; Drive 1 (Y tower) goes backwards, IDK why this stepper was backwards after the upgrade.
M569 P2 S1 ; Drive 2 goes forwards
M569 P3 S1 ; Drive 3 goes forwards
M569 P4 S1 ; Drive 4 goes forwards
M574 X2 Y2 Z2 S1 ; set endstop configuration (all endstops at high end, active high)
;*** The homed height is deliberately set too high in the following - you will adjust it during calibration
;the below diagonal rod length was taken from the calibration instructions for the SeeMeCNC Rostock Max V2,
;delta and printable radii are my best guesses for the build plate
M665 R144.2 L290.8 134.20 H379.2 ; set delta radius, diagonal rod length, printable radius and homed height
M666 X0 Y0 Z0 ; put your endstop adjustments here, or let auto calibration find them
M350 X16 Y16 E16 I1 ; Set 16x microstepping with interpolation
M92 X80 Y80 Z80 ; Set axis steps/mm
M906 X1000 Y1000 Z1000 E800 I60 ; Set motor currents (mA) and increase idle current to 60%
M201 X1000 Y1000 Z1000 E1000 ; Accelerations (mm/s^2)
M203 X20000 Y20000 Z20000 E3600 ; Maximum speeds (mm/min)
M566 X1200 Y1200 Z1200 E1200 ; Maximum instant speed changes mm/minute; Thermistors
M305 P0 T100000 B3950 R4700 H30 L0 ; Put your own H and/or L values here to set the bed thermistor ADC correction
M305 P1 X200 T100000 B3974 R4700 H30 L0 ; PT100 sensor, Put your own H and/or L values here to set the first nozzle thermistor ADC correction
M305 P2 T100000 B3974 R4700 H30 L0 ; Put your own H and/or L values here to set the second nozzle thermistor ADC correction
M570 S180 ; Hot end may be a little slow to heat up so allow it 180 seconds; Fans
M106 P1 T45 H1 ; Fan 1 (and LED ring) is Thermostatically controlled, set to 45C
M106 P0 H-1 ; Fan 0 (24V blower) is non-Thermostatically controlled; Tool definitions
M563 P0 D0 H1 ; Define tool 0
G10 P0 S0 R0 ; Set tool 0 operating and standby temperatures
;*** If you have a single-nozzle build, comment the next 2 lines
;M563 P1 D1 H2 ; Define tool 1
;G10 P1 S0 R0 ; Set tool 1 operating and standby temperatures
M92 E663:663 ; Set extruder steps per mm; Z probe and compensation definition
;*** If you have a switch instead of an IR probe, change P1 to P4 in the following M558 command
M558 P1 X0 Y0 Z0 ; Z probe is an IR probe and is not used for homing any axes
G31 X0 Y0 Z0.9 P500 ; Set the zprobe height and threshold (put your own values here);*** If you are using axis compensation, put the figures in the following command
M556 S78 X0 Y0 Z0 ; Axis compensation hereM208 S1 Z-0.2 ; set minimum Z
;
T0 ; select first hot end -
Commissioning woes, cannot Home All
Hi all, first post.
EDIT I think I fixed my problem, see my fifth post, but I'll leave this here for educational purposes.
I am well into the commissioning for my Rostock Max V2 upgrade to DuetWifi, IR Probe, 24V Meanwell 600W PSU and other changes. Duet Firmware is 1.17, Web Interface is 1.14b4, WiFi Server version is 1.03.
Last night I finally started playing with the upgraded printer, I had Auto Calibration working, though I hadn't conducted a test print.
As of this morning Auto Calibration is back to timing out as the printer attempts to probe the air a few centimetres above the bed. After failing to get a Z probe trigger seven times there is an AJAX error and I have to reset the board before I can reconnect. I have checked my delta radius and printable radius along with the endstop heights in config.bin, they seem fine, and unchanged from when I had Auto Calibration working last night. I have tried this with the hot end and bed both at print temperature and cold. Same result. Both worked yesterday.
In my attepmts to diagnose this and fix it I would like to manually check Z=0 height, but now when I attempt to Home All so that I can take manual control of the printer, I get AJAX errors and have to restart the printer. The Duet Wifi does not seem to be resetting, if I have the hot end and bed at set temperatures the Duet will go on maintaining those until I reset the board., it just won't talk to me via the browser.
What seems odd to me is that Auto Calibration, even though it now fails to reach the bed, Homes All as part of its script without resulting in AJAX errors, so I don't think there's an issue with the tower endstop switches or their wiring.
Error after attempting Auto Calibration.
The board while web interface is unresponsive. The correct LEDs seem to be lit to me? Certainly temperature/fan control is continuing.Any advice would be appreciated.