Posts made by Co3get

I'm considering update from 2.0.5 to 3.4.1 to make use of the new PID tuning.

I have not yet fully dove into the new configs other than to note that I will have to somehow identify all of the pin numbers for the heaters, BL Touch, and thermistors, and possibly more.

Questions:

• What's the best way to ID pins? Is it trace wires & Look at the board with magnifying glass, or is there some digital method?
• I've read that I should use the config tool to get a clean config before I start. However I built my config file from scratch over the last 2 years. Is there a way to convert my config.g to a json file so that I can import it into the config generator tool? Is there a converter to go from 2.x config file to 3.x?

thanks!

I just want to chime in, had the same issue after adding bed levelers and getting my bed really flat.

This created a new problem where Babystepping was "undoing" itself within 1-2 seconds. I could hold my hand on the Z rod and feel it bumping back. and watch the lines flatten out on the bed while printing, and then unflatten as it reset to Z=0.

This totally solved it for me. I typically have to babystep -0.25 and now I can again.

Thank you!

I have a simple switch sensor that triggers way too often, even though I have redesigned the switch enclosure a few times and feel like I have it exactly right, where my switch is only pressed when filament is present. Still, I get unwanted pauses all the time.

I'm going to replace the switch itself to be sure, but I like your idea of a timed outage before taking any action.

@deckingman said in Extruder engine temperature:

@luc said in Extruder engine temperature:

SLIM_POWER_LDO-42STH25-1404MAC

You have nothing to worry about. LDO actually specify a winding temperature, which in the case of that motor is 130 degC. Winding temperatures are generally about 50C more than ambient, so a 130C winding temperature means that you could run that motor inside a heated chamber temperature of 80C. For info, LDO also make a high temperature version which has a winding temperature rating of 180 deg C meaning that it could be used in a heated chamber at up to 130 deg C.

@deckingman
I have this same motor and googled my way in here looking up the temperature rating. I can't find it on LDO's website. where did you pick up the into that the motor is OK to 130c?

I run a 50c chamber.

I need to make a simple microswitch runout sensor:
https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Gcode#Section_M591_Configure_filament_sensing

It seems to be doable but light on details.

1. I'm wondering how do I configure what happens when the switch is triggered? I'd like a basic pause, retract, and hotend cool.

2. Also, It's a bit unclear how to tell duet how to know where the sensor is plugged into.

#) Switch wiring: I'm assuming stop and ground, no need for the voltage. Right?

My idea is to have a switch wired like A below.

@jens55 Can you explain you you set up the old sensor as a graphed secondary sensor?

@jens55 said in Erratic bet temps followed by heater fault:

Just a standard thermistor like you get on hot ends. Taped to the underside on top of the heater with Kapton tape

That's pretty smart. middle of the bed?

@jens55 I have been thinking along these lines, I have a big red heat pad with a built in sensor. Were this any other printer I'd replace the bed thermistor and be done. What sensor did you use?

Help me think this through. I'm having a hard time heating my bed up. it goes up smoothly to about 65 or so, then gets erratic with small variations, small 'jumps'. it struggles along and eventually faults.

I've checked my connections a few times. My SSR is a new panasonic. Ideas?

Photo is trying to heat up to 90 degrees:

Looking to add a temp sensor for my enclosure. Is there a reliable recommendation for the Duet3?

Hello,
I switched to a Direct drive head and moved from this Nema 17
http://www.zyltech.com/nema-17-stepper-motor-1-7-a-0-59-nm-84-ozin-1-3-or-5-pack/
to this pancake 17 (for a Bondtech BMG):
https://www.filamentone.com/products/ldo-nema-17-slim-power-stepper-motor-ldo-42sth25-1404mac-0-9-degree

First noob question: The wires on the plug of the first motor are Black, Green, Blue, Red.
The wires on the new pancake stepper are Black, Green, Red Blue.

The plug also has a shape with protrusions that will not allow it to plug into the Duet3 where my old stepper went. Is the motor incompatible, or do I need to modify the plug/find an adapter?

Second question: Do I need to change my config to make the new motor use it's high resolution (0.9 degree)?

So I think I found the issue, in my machine settings:
M203 X6000.00 Y6000.00 Z300.00 E6000.00:6000.00 ; set maximum speeds (mm/min)

that's mm/MINUTE, I was thinking in mm/sec

Hello - I'm trying to make a high speed profile - but I can't get speeds over 100//sec as shown in the web UI, no matter what I set the speed factor to. It never goes above 100.

So I'm backing up to understand: is that number artificially limited to show only 100mm/sec or is there some other factor in the Duet firmware?

@Phaedrux I'm printing on a textured sheet and its very very close.

@DIY-O-Sphere said in looking for good starting gcode:

@Co3get
If I got you right, you would like to move to the starting point in a diagonal Z path.
Like in Cura? I would prefere that too.
That's related to the code Prusaslicer is writing after the start sequence.
So it's not posible to do it in that way.

What I have done, is to edit the gcode manually.

For example:

G1 Z0.195 F9600.000
G1 X217.576 Y47.012 F9600.000

Put the Z and XY part together
G1 X217.576 Y47.012 Z0.195 F9600.000

(For clarity I have removed some lines of original code)

Yes that is it in a nutshell... might be reason enough to use Cura even though I like PrusaSlicer so much.

I'm working on a start gcode (I use Prusa slicer) that will move the nozzle out to the beginning of the print at +10 Z or so then lowering it. Trying to solve the problem of dragging cross the bed at first layer height to the beginning of the print. What I have (below) doesn't work even though I move the Z up at the end. IDeas?

Working with this:
;prepare positions
G21 ;metric values
G90 ;absolute positioning
M82 ;set extruder to absolute mode
M107 ;start with the fan off

M104 S[first_layer_temperature_0]; heat hotend (no wait)

G28 X0 Y0 ;move X/Y to min endstops

M190 S[bed_temperature]; heat bed (wait)
M109 S[first_layer_temperature_0]; heat hotend (wait)

G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length
G1 F200 E8 ;extrude 8mm of feed stock
G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length again

G28 Z10 ;move Z up

M420 S1 ; ensures auto leveling is enabled

M117 Printing...

Next issue: I finally get to connect and now I'm getting this error in the web interface, which immediately disconnects me:

---

JavaScript Error

A JavaScript error has occurred so the web interface has closed the connection to your board. It is recommended to reload the web interface now. If this happens again, please contact the author and share this error message:

Version: 1.22.6
Message: Uncaught TypeError: Cannot read property 'toFixed' of undefined
URL: http://192.168.1.17/js/dwc.js
Line: 4468:75
Error object: {}

I'

Update - you might all like to know - in desperation I unplugged the card from the printer and tried that way - no change. So I hunted around for another cable and got lucky, found an old one in a storage box full of computer parts.

The 4th cable did it. It's all working now. I appreciate everyone's input.

Now that all 4 lights are on and the board doesn't have firmware...

I've been running through some of the procedures on this page: https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Installing_and_Updating_Firmware#Section_Usual_procedure

The instructions under Fallback Procedure #3 basically tell you that if windows can't detect the card, try different USB ports and cables. Everything relies on it being detected.

So naturally, nothing I try has any effect.