Even with only two leadscrew, the bed leveling works well. I don't bother with the mesh bed compensation anymore. Just stick the following codes in the start gcode of the slicer and the first layer come out almost perfect every time.
G28 ; home all
G30 P0 X0 Y240 Z-99999 ; probe near left leadscrew
G30 P1 X540 Y240 Z-99999 S2 ; probe near right leadscrew and calibrate 2 motors
G28 Z ; home Z
Now I am just waiting for the delivery of the third lead screw to make it even better.
I also had some wifi connection issue with 1.19. Setting the IP address, net mask and gateway in the config.g file (M552, M553, & M554) seem to have fixed the problem.
Just got the email from Filastruder. Thank you.
You guys are awesome!
CJ
I had the DC42 IR Z-probe set up and working perfectly for the last 2 weeks.
This morning, home Z left the nozzle a lot higher than previously.
Apparently, there is now two trigger points for the Z-probe - one at 1.5mm and the second at 7mm.
The nozzle and probe are clean.
How should I go about getting rid of that second trigger point?
Thanks,
CJ
Just a follow up on this thread,
I received the fuse and holder from Amazon today.
Crimped the two wires of the holder to a two pin dupont connector plug.
Plugged it into pins 40 and 42 on the expansion header and my machine is alive again.
Took less than 2 minutes and 2 bucks, no soldering or modification of the original board.
CJ
Thanks David, can't wait for the info.
In the mean time, as per Sniffle, I have ordered glass fuse holders and some 250mA fast acting fuses from Amazon.
Looking at the board this morning, I am thinking that I could just crimp the two wires of the fuse holder and plug one into the E1 thermistor VSSA pin and the other to a ground pin of the expansion header. Would that work as a temporary fix and avoid altering the board?
Thanks again, and thanks for the VSSA fuse. I think I would have fried the board by now without it. Though, I think you should not make us feel too over-confident about not being able to destroy the board. We can do it!
CJ
Thanks Sniffle,
That appears to be the problem.
I don't have the capability to SMD solder, so I am trying to find that work around.
CJ
I got my printer built and working well for the last 2 weeks.
Unfortunately, starting up this morning, all the temperature readings on the heaters and bed thermistors are stuck at -273.1c on the panel due. CPU temp is till correct. All motor functions are normal.
The web control just show error as the current tempts.
Clicking on the bed link gives me:
Error: Temperature reading fault on heater 0: sensor open circuit.
Clicking on the heater link gives me:
Heater Fault
Error: A heater fault has occurred on this particular heater.
Please turn off your machine and check your wiring for loose connections.
I've tried changing out the wiring, the thermistors, and the bed heater.
I've also tried a reset and reinstalling firmware (version 1.18.1) to no avail.
Any help on what I should try next?
Thanks,
CJ
Sorry for another noob question:
Can I wire two similar 12V LED strips in series to the 24V fan connector and skipping the buck converter?
I went through the same process last week.
In the CMD prompt, you need to specify where your bossac.exe program is located.
Don't just type bossac.exe.
You need something like c:/users/user/Downloads/bossac.exe
Finally got some free time to work on the printer this weekend.
The email with the link for SAMBA from Atmel never came. (I made the mistake of trying to download it as a guest.) I gave up and registered and the software was readily available.
It is listed for windows XP, 7 & 8, which got me worried as I no longer have one of those machines. It didn't matter as that version works fine on Windows 10. After about 30 minutes of fiddling, I am now up and running with the new firmware installed!
Really like your hardware (DUE WIFI and the panel due). The web control is really cool. The instruction on the Wiki is actually excellent (except for for the one missing line of course). It is like programing, the order of the instructions does matter. And the response for help here is instantaneous.
Cannot wait to finish the machine and test drive this new set up.
Thanks, keep up the good work.
My apology for my stupid noob post. It clearly stated the correct order in the instruction documentation.
This is how I, as an absolute noob, read your instruction:
Page 1: Getting started
(https://duet3d.com/wiki/Duet_Wiki)
Page 2: Checking firmware (https://duet3d.com/wiki/Checking_the_firmware_versions_and_updating_the_firmware)
Page 3: Updating firmware
(https://duet3d.com/wiki/Duet_Wiki#Updating_Duet_WiFi_firmware)
Choice 1: updating the main firmware
Choice 2: updating wifi firmware or DWC
Choice 3: updating more than 1 firmware
Here, not knowing what I am doing, I made the mistake of picking choice 1. That is my first wrong choice, although I am not quite sure how I would know to pick choice 3 at the time.
Page 4: Instruction on updating firmware
(https://duet3d.com/wiki/Updating_main_firmware)
Oh by the way, so the instruction goes, I can download multiple firmwares as well. Stupid me downloaded all three available firmwares. No where on this page or the github page is there any warning that these must be installed in order. Your single line warning here would have bailed me out. Alternatively, I should have went back a step to "updating more than 1 firmware" to get the warning before proceeding. I am not quite sure how I would know to do that.
Anyway, the installation obviously did not work.
In my frustration, in an attempt to reset the board, I accidentally hit the erase button. Fatal mistake!
I should have read the forum before reading the installation instruction.
Now I am sitting here patiently waiting for Atmel to send me a link for SAM-BA. . . and have too much time for stupid noob posts.
DuetWiFiFirmware, DuetWebServer and DuetWebControl should be upgraded in that order because of the dependencies that there are typically between them.
If you could just put this line in the WiKi, you would save a lot of people a lot of trouble.