@dc42 Hi yes, thank you so much I was just stupid and had the fan in the wrong header, automatically assuming left-right would be fans 0-3 but its the other way around.
Onto the next problem now, the hotend fan has no standard connector or header on the old board, and cannot for the life of me figure out how to wire it.
Hi, I am in the process of installing duet 2 wifi in my Artillery Genius.
I have most everything working, except the hotend cooling fan, which unlike the part cooling fan did not have a separate header on the original MKS Gen L board.
So the signal path to the fan is set up like this: main board -> carriage connector PCB -> Z ribbon cable -> X connector PCB -> X ribbon cable -> extruder connector PCB -> fan
I saw online somewhere that its run from one of the heatbed connectors, but that does not tell me enough (very limited electronical knowledge).
I found a lone wire that has continuity with both the - and + leads of the fan2 connection on the extruder PCB seen above. It confused me, how can it have continuity with both? Am i interpreting the reading wrong?
I tried looking up the pinout of the carriage PCB pictured above. but could only find pinouts for the ribbons, not this board.
Basically, i have absolutely no clue anymore haha. I would like some help.
One alternative would be to just run a wire from the fan to the duet, but it would be much less elegant, and understanding what I am missing here would help me learn.
Thanks in advance!!
@dc42 Hmmm, you are correct, yet they do not work! On to the next problem then...no idea what could be wrong . Thanks tho!
I guess i am unaware of the convention here, so any help would be appreciated
I have a Duet 2 Wifi that I am installing in my Artillery Genius. The genius has a 24v power supply and 24v fans so i need to set the fan power jumper to VIN. Howeverrrr....
After searching online on the duet pages its really not clear to me which position is the open position! I think its jumper open (removed), but yeah idk why that is not just clearly labeled somewhere....
@joergs5 Yeah i was gonna crimp and put new connectors anyways since the current ones only kinda fit. I know that you can reverse the motor direction by flipping the connectors on one phase. However, here the middle two wires are reversed, so from one from phase 1 and from from phase 2, also this is on only some of the stepper connectors, any idea what that could be for?
Thanks!
Okay so I am in the process of installing duet 2 WIFI on my Artillery Genius. The duet wiring guide says that the stepper connector wiring for other popular printers should match the one needed here, with the 2 left side pins doing one phase and the two right side pins doing another. However, on the board end (and not the stepper end) the middle two wires are swapped for the some of the steppers and for others they are not.
I do not want to blow the drivers, at first I thought this was just to swap the direction of the motors, but that turns out to not be it, so yeah, could use some guidance!
Thanks!!
@jay_s_uk yeah mine has the extra pins on the extruder board BLT so that should not be an issue. I could just run a cable up to the y endstop (thats the only one that goes through the ribbon).
Should be okay like that, right? Because i think i still have some new mech end switches laying around 
@jay_s_uk Why would normally closed be better? Fewer things that could unwantedly trip the sensor? Right now i just want to get the setup working, i can get a better setup later. It's been years since I played around with electronics so i am rusty, perhaps best for me to now focus on a minimum viable product, ie, getting the board and printer working, expand upon it later.
@jay_s_uk why do mechanical endstops also have 3 leads then? and the signal pin has a voltage too, right?
@jay_s_uk makes sense, thanks! One more thing, you said no voltage required for mechanical, i understand that's true to operate it, but ofc a circuit still needs to be made and broken, suppose this will also be 3.3v? I imagine it is, just safeguarding, because if it is i can safely use the wiring that already exists (part of a ribbon cable) for the y endstop.
@jay_s_uk Okay, I will go and get some mechanical ones then. Any idea why they don't just put 5v on there, that would seem to save a lot of hassle?
@jay_s_uk I might just. But why then is the voltage 3.3v? Like what is the 'nominal' endstop for duet that uses 3.3v, hall effect sensors perhaps?
@jay_s_uk yeah, so i can also look online for 3.3v endstops? If im buying anyways why not go to something that i can just plug in.
@jay_s_uk doesn't the duet use 3.3v endstops? I am sure you are correct, just trying to understand.
@jay_s_uk It's just that all the videos and topics ive seen of people trying to use the stock endstops has been of people having a bunch of issues, with that one guy even burning out his board (duet 2 wifi like i have). So i kind of just feel like defaulting to an option that will work as is, no rewiring. Endstops are cheap anyways, why risk the 160 euro board.
First off; this community seems amazing, very active!
I have a roided out Artillery Genius, but the 8 bit board keeps burning out when you look at it the wrong way.
So for my bday I got a duet3d board from my dad, which I always wanted but was overkill for that printer, but now I have it anyways.
However the inductive endstops the printer uses are apparently 24v parts that still work down at 5v on the printer, but not 3.3v. Also the wiring is different, so i'd end up needing to power them from somewhere else on the printer, and rewiring the pins. There was this guy who got it wrong and he burned out his board, which is something that has happened to me once too often.
So i would like some help picking endstops available here in NL, ideally not mechanical ones, even more ideally ones that i can use the existing wiring through the printers ribbon cables.
TLDR:
I would like some help picking endstops:
Thanks!!