@dc42 hello again and sorry for pinging you again,

As well as the question about acceleration, what max jerk should I have my printer set to? Continuing to tune my printer and noted something strange. I have a bondtech BMG, when I first started to dial things in and set up linear advance I noticed a strange, not quite grinding sound that had popped up, apparently this is just a thing with dual gear extruders (or at least my googling told me.)

Ok, now for the strange, I had forgotten about this because at some point I had turned down my extruder jerk down to 300, switching it back to 900 has caused the not quite grinding sound to come back. SO, if 300 jerk is fine I would leave it there just to save on noise pollution, otherwise, if 900 or greater jerk is the best way to go I'll deal with the added sound.

Thank you again ^_^

@dc42 Hello and thank you for your time,

I have been... WAY busy with work so the past few days has been work, sleep, mess with 3d printer, work, sleep >_<; Only now reading through the thread.

I have done a LAWT and have a question for you @dc42 if you would, what amount of acceleration Should I set for the extruder if my X/Y acceleration is set to 7000? I currently have it set to 1500 and have not seen issues.

Ok, now for the BIG UPDATE

To all of those still watching here, and sorry again for not posting in a few days... I have finally gotten to a stable/workable slicer profile/printer settings etc. as far as jerk goes.. The old print was with input shaping and zero jerk where the new is 14 jerk for the walls and 10 for the top/bottom.

Ran out of filament when printing this one and had to start on a roll that was a little waterlogged.

if you want to see the rest here is the galley https://imgur.com/a/6oXPUVE

I will try out lowering my damping factor a little bit later and report on how that goes, later tonight or tomorrow and report on the results with pictures probably.

Thank/thanks again all who showed interest and/or offered assistance/advice, it was welcome/apricated

UPDATE:

Finally got around to trying things again now that there is a day of not rain, hail or near freezing temps.. only ran one test but it seems to have had large affect.

@droftarts , lowering the jerk seemed to do the trick, i have them down to 150/150, i'm only able to push it to 2000 m/s accel though including pictures

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Here is a picture of the much better looking (imo) input shaping and a picture of the final product, the second ring from the bottom is 2000m/s and after it goes up 500 about every ring, there is a huge change from 2000 to 2500 which seems odd to me and it goes as high as 7000m/s.

Anyway, tomorrow going to print (if its not raining) another set of speed tests to see if i can go faster then 50m/s in print speed, wish me luck and thanks all for the help ^_^ (Will post how that turns out as well, probably with another print for the voron to give a compare/contrast.

@Exerqtor Thank you very much for the effort and posting of your results.

Now for the question, what did you do to have the print broken down into different types of IS from EI3 to None? when it stops raining (too much humidity ) I'll set up and do the same to post my results and findings

Hoping that lowering the jerk gives me what I'm looking for

@droftarts I have been working down the list of calibration and while tuning linear advance I was using jerk to counter the... idk how to put it... rounding? bulging? of corners. so hopefully this is not yet a rabbit hole in a hole of rabbit holes for me >_<

The interesting thing to me though is, in slicer "Cura" which is what I'm using/used to print the voron parts, my jerk is 2mm/s, will lowering my M566 x and y values have any effect given that i'm using so little jerk in slicer?

Also thank you and everyone else for taking the time to reply and pitch and or field questions ^_^

@Exerqtor its a hyper cube, I'm using linear rods and bearings and I'm printing in PC, I get that PC is not going to be the fastest printing material in the world but I'm trying to avoid 12+ hour prints as we keep having power outages and PC is not the cheapest plastic.

I feel you on being fed up... I see people with their hyper cubes printing to the moon at speeds of 100-200mm/s and its making it so I conquer one problem... only to find another... then leave it alone for a week.... then come back.... and this I think is the last hurtle. I mean my ender 3 I got printing faster.... WITHOUT input shaping... at a better quality then I'm getting with a machine I put together using better parts then creality even looks at -_-;

Why not use the ender 3? not trying to jump into getting it to print at 270C hot end and 120C bed temp
Also there is the fact that it would be admitting defeat and accepting that I wasted ALL of my money in trying to build my own printer VS just continuing to mod a bed slinger

Also Also, just getting up after little sleep so please tell me what you mean by PA?

@jay_s_uk Ah, i figured i should take a pic but the "how to" section of posting for this forum said that config.g should be made a file and uploaded. i'll just snap a pic for the future if that is how things are done ^_^

Here is the M115

And here are examples of said ghosting (for lack of better) wall speed on the first was 50mm/s outer 55m inner with 1500 acceleration and the wall speed on the test print was 120 inner 100 outer and 1500-6500 acceleration supposedly on that last bit, i can only really see any diff between teh first and last change in acceleration for the test print.

@jay_s_uk also, realized i coulda just hit reply.

@jay_s_uk
OMG... i was sitting here for like 10 minutes going "WHY cant i find the reply button o_O?"

Needed to click the link in the email Duet sent me -_-;

Anyway, here you go. config.g

I understand that the version stated in the config G is 3.3 or somethinb BuuuUUuuht

Also, thank you for replying ^_^

Hello all, first time posting.

I hope that I'll find some sort of answer to this but it seems no matter what I do input shaping has little to no effect on the quality of my prints.

I'm using a Duet wifi on version 3.4.1 firmware. I have tried two types of accelerometer ("Adafruit LIS3DH Triple-Axis Accelerometer" which i have two of, neither seem to save or collect data and a "LIS3DSH 3-axis Accelerometer Triaxial Accelerometer Development Board high-Resolution LIS3DH Sensor 1.71V to 3.6V I2C SPI Output Interface Replace ADXL345 Built-in Temperature Sensor" sorry for the long name no idea what all in that is actually useful in telling who made it.)

The graph after the accelerometer that actually collects data looks.... like maybe there is a problem somehow and some of the graphs after applying input shaping does not seem to have any real effect most of the time and a FEW times it seems to work well via what the graph in the Duet UI is telling me

In order, No input shaping, EI2 50hz @ 0.1 damping for the last two. ran the test back to back with the same shaper/shaping applied.

And again, the quality of the prints as far as ringing goes is still quite major with or without application of the input shaping Please help.