Molex Microfit (or compatible) for the Smart Effector V2 or V3?
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@clearlynotstef said in Molex Microfit (or compatible) for the Smart Effector V2 or V3?:
@bberger thanks. I'm currently using an aluminum adapter I bought online because the thought of printed parts being responsible for centering the hotend bothers me but it is not an ideal arrangement either (can see my recent post for pictures) and the way the metal thing was designed/assembled, I don't have much more faith in its being perfectly square than I would have in a printed party anyway lol. Since that post I put a thin m12 nylon washer on each side of the effector. My trigger offset is reasonable so I guess its getting the job done in any event
you could check if the screw holes are the same as a mosquito if so then the 713maker adaptor might be what you want.
HTH
Doug
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@dougal1957 it's what I'm using
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I do hope that we keep with screw terminals as it lets me use a wide range of heaters and setups without having to buy another expensive crimping tool.
Using a thermistor/PT1000 with extra wire length is not a problem due to the size and flexibility of them. But heater wires are another matter and when you use custom, experimental, or different hotends and heatsinks it needs to be flexible.
It won't be fun to be limited on compatibility because you can't find a heater with the right length.
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@bberger sorry to derail this thread but this has been very helpful! I'm having issues with the rapido losing temp like crazy even at low flow speeds after a pid tune. So main two culprits are the heater/pid tune was no good, or the thermistor configuration is wrong. As best I can tell there is no user manual for this thing, which is insane. My printer runs on 12.3v, do you know if the uhf heater is geared for 24v? Do you know if the thermistor is the same as the e3d line (i.e. maybe it's heating fine and temp reporting is off)?
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@clearlynotstef said in Molex Microfit (or compatible) for the Smart Effector V2 or V3?:
@bberger sorry to derail this thread but this has been very helpful! I'm having issues with the rapido losing temp like crazy even at low flow speeds after a pid tune. So main two culprits are the heater/pid tune was no good, or the thermistor configuration is wrong. As best I can tell there is no user manual for this thing, which is insane. My printer runs on 12.3v, do you know if the uhf heater is geared for 24v? Do you know if the thermistor is the same as the e3d line (i.e. maybe it's heating fine and temp reporting is off)?
Rapido is a 24V hotend. Thermistor is a 104NT-4-R025H42G (Semitec Thermistor 100K - NTC).
RRF Config:
M308 S1 P"e0temp" Y"thermistor" T100000 B4725 C7.06e-8 ; Semtec Thermistor -
@baenwort said in Molex Microfit (or compatible) for the Smart Effector V2 or V3?:
without having to buy another expensive crimping tool.
Most of us here buy a 20-30$ universal crimper that is good for all the connectors we encounter in the 3D printing world and possibly another cheap circular crimper for ferrules.
We each have different budgets and financial constraints but it may be a good long investment since you mentioned experimenting with 3D printing technology.
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@zapta doesn't even the Duet 2 and/or Smart Effector itself need a crimping tool for the Molex connectors to get it wired up? It's been quite some time, but I'm almost 100% positive that you at least needed to crimp the 2x5 (?) pin smart effector molex microfit plug yourself anyways.. so a molex-pin compatible crimping tool is required anyways..
I'm just super hesitant to cut off microfit plugs on already short (7cm?) wires on a 100€ hotend that has a soldered thermistor as you can't get the pins out without a special tool. I'd rather solder a microfit connector onto the Smart Effector instead.
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@bberger, what you said sounds reasonable to me.
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@bberger for my last three duet machines I did not have to crimp anything with a special or universal tool. Working with the hotend to customize for me has not needed customized wireing harness as all my changes are from the Smart Effector base.
I feel that universal crimps give poor results more often than good and a specifically designed tool should be used when the hardware was designed for one.
If we went to ferrule for the heater wiring I would personally have no problem as I do have a toll specifically for that. However, I would caution against it due to my desire to keep from forcing people to buy tools.
Perhaps one of the Duet people can correct me on the requirement to have a molex tool to build a Duet system?
I know several vendors of Duet boards in the US use alternative connects to the Molex ones due to supply but they are compatible with the male ends on the board.
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@baenwort said in Molex Microfit (or compatible) for the Smart Effector V2 or V3?:
I feel that universal crimps give poor results more often than good
What do you consider to be 'universal crimp', Engineer like tools or also their party ratchet crimpers?
Perfection is often prohibitively expensive and cupeled with an all-or-nothing approach we end up with nothing.
