New hemera settings
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The termistor is actually a sensor the original was defective no replacement available my bad
I believe tos a pt1000 otherwise i would need a daughter board i have two china laser tem sensors
But.dont believe they are accurate by any means
They read 10° hotter than the bet ten on the dwi
Wouold it be nessicary to buy a fluke multimeter with a calibrated sensor ??? I have no idea.
Anyone have a link to pid need to learn how to set it for the hemera and the best and most reliable method of calibrating both the hotend and the.bed -
Thanks i think i have more than.one issue since it was a complete rebuild i think yournspot on about the pid. No idea exactly wat it iis im also driving blind with the temp calibration since the temp sensor is frome a difernt store because of nessecity
It will be some time untill they are back in stocknat e3d -
The store i boght it from uses the same sensir in there unitsnthey buils and use duets forncontrol board thats wher i got the gcoad entry for the sensor.what they use again im an electical comtractor (big on a meter thas calibrate)
Does the software make an allowance for drop of temp from whats indecated and the actual bed serface??
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Fyi my z- probe is my nozzle thats why the neg z-prob offset
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you can gat semitec thermistor from other stores.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32847452724.html -
The sensor is working fine and maintaining a set temp
I think it's off ,,just not sure which way or how much
I checked the link that explained some of it,, theres another link within explainig the process of how so thanks for that ..
i saw somewher that it was recomendermd running the hemera 5 to 1O° cooler temps because of efficiency??
I know for sure that some things chainge with direct drive pressure advance ???
How does that work and fit in with an upgrade???
Such as extruder steps and retraction,, like in my case ,,what else? Would be required to be changed and calibrated??? Or maybe looked at
Thanks -
Im noticing yout pushing the PT 100 in stead of the
PT1000 ive read the Pt100 give beter temp accuracy
Is that why ?
Wont the pt 1000 do the job just as well as the 100
And without the need of the motherboard? -
who is pushing the pt100? i just said that e3d does not sell them.
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No offence intended should have said picked as an example,, just fishing ive read lots not sure what applys,, i have no idea what would be the best chioce that's the only way to learn just an expression:)
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i use pt1000 myself.
we are just trying to figure out what you have changed, as you never mentioned the pt1000 and the hemera does come with a different one
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Yes.. my bad thats why the storie about the backorder E3d was out of the original termistor
Thats why the pt1000 sensor i knew it wasnt the same but it works great at some piont i would think a calibration is warranted would you agree considering ive changet to the sensor.. i have faith the gcode has the right information just not sure it correct givin my frankenprinter lol. and the benchy at the top of course -
My question is not as much how do i fix it as how do i check it ??.. if that makes sense ??
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pt1000 sensor do not need calibration. their properties need to be the same.
does your pt1000 sensor come in the cartridge format that fits fully in the e3d hotend?
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Im missing something guys no idea what but if i set the temp to 205 it runs nicely up to that temp as far as the displayed temp goes the results make me question the actual temp..
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And yes x501 is the correct entry given by the supplier for the sensor also the r factor
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Yes indeed also put a small amount ik f heatoastvon it befoyr i slid it in,, good fit
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Yes the other manufacture used the same metal
3mm carriage in a hemera. little heat paste fit goodThanks for the input guys i gotta finish later its 3 am
again. lol -
what i changed.
The whole x carrage
It now ri s on two linear rail
Of course the hemera
A new pt 1000 sensor
Changed from a capasitive z-stop to a nozzle activated z-stop controled by a limit Sw.
Also upgraded the x axes stepper to a 2amp.
And a 10mm belt to compensate for the added weights ...
Z is dailed in nicely and current have been
adjusted 1100 m.a. on the x stepper -
Oh and the steps on the extruder per the hamera e3d site
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What does your part cooling setup look like? The hull of the benchy up to that line has quite steep overhangs until the point where it recovers, so this could be an effect of bad cooling or overhang performance. Make sure to print the outer wall last in this section of the benchy so the overhangs can adher to the inner wall as well.
(Here is a great resource interpreting Benchy prints and what the individual features test for https://github.com/3DprinterDiscord/wiki/wiki/3D-Benchy).
