Issues with print quality, wall surface rough.
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@CorvoDewittV2 said in Issues with print quality, wall surface rough.:
@Phaedrux Not a good look. 75% fan, 200C 30mm/s 90%flow
Geez that's awful.
It still looks like over extrusion, but combined with a Z binding issue...you can see the regular intervals up the walls that suggest a Z screw wobble.
But it's not just that, there's a slicer/config setting issue of some sort going on there.
Once you've done those 3 steps, you could try just a large tall cylinder in vase mode with zero infill and single wall thickness, something like 100 diameter by the full 300 tall.
That would be worth a look.
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@CorvoDewittV2
Can you please provide information for the thermistors you are using?
Your config is set up for the generic ones, which is uncommon. -
@DIY-O-Sphere said in Issues with print quality, wall surface rough.:
@CorvoDewittV2
Can you please provide information for the termistors you are using?
Your config is set up for the generic ones, which is uncommon.There we go...
That could very well explain why it looks like it's been printed at way too hot a temperature.
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@Corexy I have not gotten to those steps, I was still messing with flow just by different cubes.
@DIY-O-Sphere I am using a genuine e3d cartridge style thermistor and the one that comes with the keenovo heater pad.... What do they need to be set to?
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@Phaedrux I had already started the wide cube when you messaged me, I'm going to do a tall vase now:
Please note! The image is not stretched, the cube is 100x100x30
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@CorvoDewittV2 said in Issues with print quality, wall surface rough.:
@Corexy I have not gotten to those steps, I was still messing with flow just by different cubes.
@DIY-O-Sphere I am using a genuine e3d cartridge style thermistor and the one that comes with the keenovo heater pad.... What do they need to be set to?
That big cube looks a bit better.
I still recommend you try those steps before messing around with anymore prints, as it will put you in the right ballpark setting wise.
Might be best you look at the thermistor settings DIY suggested first though, as that would certainly play havoc if you've got them wrong.
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@Corexy okay I'll take a look at the settings for the thermistor. I will feel real dumb if that fixes it
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@CorvoDewittV2 said in Issues with print quality, wall surface rough.:
@Corexy okay I'll take a look at the settings for the thermistor. I will feel real dumb if that fixes it
I wouldn't feel dumb, it's all a learning experience. It's little things that make big problems, and it's not definitely that yet anyway (but it's certainly a contender).
My name is in the Oxford dictionary in the section marked "dumb at programming a Duet wifi", yet I still knock out a passable print time to time.
That's the reason I was pressing you about those steps. If your extrusion temp ended up at 90 degC or something stupid like that, you'd instantly be homing in on that problem.
The only shame will be the money spent on parts, but pain is a teacher they say.
Once you check those thermistor settings you should run the heater test function jigger (for want of a better description) on both the bed and hot end, then....
...try those 3 steps
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@Corexy said in Issues with print quality, wall surface rough.:
blatantly blowing on the heat block, and you've got a silicone cover on it as well. Sure you could certainly have a better fan shroud, but I don't think it's a major cause of any problems. I'd stick with the 40x10 blowers myself, but I tend to use as little fan as possible in my prints. I generally go with 10-20% fan on materials like PLA/PETG, and with the exception of bridging never go over 60%.
It would be nice to print some sort of UI notice from the pictures you are printing on a magnetic print surface. Is it possible that the surface is not holding down tightly, and the print is wobbling? This really, really looks like simple mechanical wobble somewhere. If the temperature regulation isn't very good, especially, the plate could be flexing vertically (popping up and down), resulting in very uneven spacing of the 'z' steps and the blobby layers.
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@Corexy So I set the e3d thermistor up and now its reading -273.1C....
M308 S1 P"temp2" Y"thermistor" T100000 B4725 C7.06e-8 ; configure sensor 1 as thermistor on pin temp2 -
@CorvoDewittV2 why have you gone from using temp1 to temp2?
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@CorvoDewittV2
You have used temp1 and temp0 in the old config(UTC+1)
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@DIY-O-Sphere fuck
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@DIY-O-Sphere I have to go to work so I don't have time to PID tune so I'll have to mess with this more when I get home thank you! But yeah changing it temp1 fixed it
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@mendenmh WhamBam is pretty good, I can not move the bed when its on there. Not a bad idea to check though, I have a mirror I can try.
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@CorvoDewittV2 said in Issues with print quality, wall surface rough.:
@Corexy So I set the e3d thermistor up and now its reading -273.1C....
M308 S1 P"temp2" Y"thermistor" T100000 B4725 C7.06e-8 ; configure sensor 1 as thermistor on pin temp2Not my area of expertise.
You need @DIY-O-Sphere or @Phaedrux for that.
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@Corexy @DIY-O-Sphere got it sorted for me. Im not sure how but I changed temp1 -> temp2. I had to go to work (I only work to feed my 3d printing habit
) so when I get home I will re-run the PID magic tunes and try printing again, then try the stuff you suggested. I am considering ordering new POM nuts, they felt a little loose to me. I am not sure if it will translate into video but if it does I will upload a video of the wiggle tonight, for your viewing pleasure. -
@CorvoDewittV2 said in Issues with print quality, wall surface rough.:
@Corexy @DIY-O-Sphere got it sorted for me. Im not sure how but I changed temp1 -> temp2. I had to go to work (I only work to feed my 3d printing habit
) so when I get home I will re-run the PID magic tunes and try printing again, then try the stuff you suggested. I am considering ordering new POM nuts, they felt a little loose to me. I am not sure if it will translate into video but if it does I will upload a video of the wiggle tonight, for your viewing pleasure.Don't change the nuts yet is my recommendation.
Was there any temp reading difference with the new setting?
Why not just run your PIDs, do those 3 steps then print the large cylinder in vase mode?
Costs nothing, and starts at the beginning.
Flipping back and forth will get you nowhere in printing.
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@Corexy I just want to print a cube to see if the proper thermistor settings is the fix. I really did not get a chance to look at the temp too much, as I was going to be late. I did notice that at room temp the bed and hot end where about 2C apart, so I may have to take a closer look at the bed thermistor.
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I would try a print with a lower acceleration (~600). If it looks the same I would guess it is the extruder.
