Large corexy mechanical kit options
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No Prob. Original HiWin Linear rails and carriages was about £450 about 880AUD
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@PaulHew said in Large corexy mechanical kit options:
No Prob. Original HiWin Linear rails and carriages was about £450 about 880AUD
Cheers. If I was going that way I'd go the V core pro, as it uses MGN15's, but it's a kick up in price.
When people complain about flat spots on these rollers, they must have something wrong when adjusting, or just watched a seized bearing run for a full print or something like that. It shouldn't happen.
Then they talk about wear and dust (like you see in my pick), but to me that just looks like molding release agent and a bit of shiny surface wearing down as they bed into their channel.
But I'd better be careful not to open a can of worms... each to their own.
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@Corexy said in Large corexy mechanical kit options:
Either way I want to do my own wiring and component selection, so the mechanical kit is the way for me. I am well and truly capable of cutting up my own frame, but to be honest it's loud and messy with all the shavings etc, I'd rather the "meccano" approach on this one. Whatever frame I get I would have it all squared up and tightened perfectly rigid.
Misumi USA custom cuts at VERY reasonable prices and delivers in a few days. The most recent two coreXY I built, I did the basic frame this way, and am very happy with the results.
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@Corexy said in Large corexy mechanical kit options:
When people complain about flat spots on these rollers, they must have something wrong when adjusting, or just watched a seized bearing run for a full print or something like that. It shouldn't happen.
IMO, that's always the case (incorrectly adjusted). My printer has been running for about 4 to 5 years and although it has evolved during that time, the wheels on the XY gantry are all original. In fact, there are no problems with any of the 60 plus wheels although the UV gantry has only done about 3 years and the AB about 18 months or so. Oh, and I throw around about 2 to 3 Kgs on each gantry. These are standard Delrin wheels. Having said all that, I've heard bad things about the mini wheels but I've have no personal experience of using them. I'd think it likely that problems might be due to poor adjustment but can't say for sure.
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@deckingman said in Large corexy mechanical kit options:
@Corexy said in Large corexy mechanical kit options:
When people complain about flat spots on these rollers, they must have something wrong when adjusting, or just watched a seized bearing run for a full print or something like that. It shouldn't happen.
IMO, that's always the case (incorrectly adjusted). My printer has been running for about 4 to 5 years and although it has evolved during that time, the wheels on the XY gantry are all original. In fact, there are no problems with any of the 60 plus wheels although the UV gantry has only done about 3 years and the AB about 18 months or so. Oh, and I throw around about 2 to 3 Kgs on each gantry. These are standard Delrin wheels. Having said all that, I've heard bad things about the mini wheels but I've have no personal experience of using them. I'd think it likely that problems might be due to poor adjustment but can't say for sure.
Absolutely.
As a field service fitter in the mines and oil rigs I saw similar mechanisms rolling submerged in coal slurry, etc for years. Mind you they did throw a few bearings in that aggressive environment.
I adjusted all mine so that they could just still be spun on the track with my fingers while holding the carriage stationary, which gave an even(ish) tension across the board. Then I expect a little scuffing on the surface of the wheel as mentioned above.
I totally agree that mini wheels may be more prone to problems just due to the smaller diameter. I wouldn't want those miniature bearings for a start.
@Danal said in Large corexy mechanical kit options:
@Corexy said in Large corexy mechanical kit options:
Either way I want to do my own wiring and component selection, so the mechanical kit is the way for me. I am well and truly capable of cutting up my own frame, but to be honest it's loud and messy with all the shavings etc, I'd rather the "meccano" approach on this one. Whatever frame I get I would have it all squared up and tightened perfectly rigid.
Misumi USA custom cuts at VERY reasonable prices and delivers in a few days. The most recent two coreXY I built, I did the basic frame this way, and am very happy with the results.
I'm in Australia, so shipping from Misumi would be expensive. There is Misumi SE Asia, but they do seem to have a complicated website. Regardless, I don't want to do it that way this time, but it's certainly a consideration for the future.
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So do we have any V core 2.0 owners out there?
And do we have any experts on belt driven Z axis? Is it better in any way? I understand there's a little reduction gear of sorts, and I see the V king designer singing its praises. I just wonder if it wouldn't be a bit quieter and "softer" running than lead screws.
And then I see some issues in the forums about toothed belts running over smooth idlers. Is that a problem? I'd have thought it would be OK if the diameter was a bit larger and the belts were tensioned correctly, but have had no experience with Corexy yet (despite my username lol, had big plans once).
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@Corexy said in Large corexy mechanical kit options:
And do we have any experts on belt driven Z axis?
https://drmrehorst.blogspot.com/search?q=z+axis @mrehorstdmd Paging Doctor Rehorst.
@Corexy said in Large corexy mechanical kit options:
So do we have any V core 2.0 owners out there?
There's a few. https://forum.duet3d.com/search?term=v-core&in=titlesposts&matchWords=all&sortBy=relevance&sortDirection=desc&showAs=posts
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@Phaedrux said in Large corexy mechanical kit options:
@Corexy said in Large corexy mechanical kit options:
And do we have any experts on belt driven Z axis?
https://drmrehorst.blogspot.com/search?q=z+axis @mrehorstdmd Paging Doctor Rehorst.
@Corexy said in Large corexy mechanical kit options:
So do we have any V core 2.0 owners out there?
There's a few. https://forum.duet3d.com/search?term=v-core&in=titlesposts&matchWords=all&sortBy=relevance&sortDirection=desc&showAs=posts
Cheers mate,
Yep, I'm all over Mark's design. It's probably the benchmark today as far as belt drive Z axis' go. It also looks good for being driven by a single nema 17 stepper, which is something I've been thinking about. I'd rather not get into a 23 size stepper. I've also seen it expanded on with an extra "slave" shaft so as to have a belt in each corner, and have wondered about setting it up as a triple belt system.
I'm thinking of which is better... triple lead screw on a common timing belt or this belt drive Z axis. I would imagine the belt drive would be quieter and no greasing of lead screws required. I will not be running 3 stepper motors on the Z axis, as I'll build a level be in the first place and don't want the wiring/programming complication.
I've seen some invalid arguments against the belt drive like reduction gear backlash and belt stretch. It's all got the weight of the bed sitting on it, and while the new belt might initially stretch a little as it breaks in I doubt the weight of even the largest print would affect it. Plus the Digital Dentist has demonstrated it doesn't with testing.
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There are only two real concerns with a belt driven Z axis. You want to keep the bed from dropping like a rock when the Z motor loses power so a gear reduced drive helps. Specifically, a worm gear drive of sufficient ratio will keep the bed from moving at all if you want to be able to resume a print after power loss. Z axis print quality is a function of the quality of the gears used, especially the worm gear, as defects will cause repeating errors in the Z axis of your prints.
Thoughtful selection of the gear ratio and drive pulleys will allow you to use a nice, round steps/mm value that will get you nice, round full-step-multiple layer thicknesses in your prints, if that matters to you.
Backlash in the gears shouldn't matter as long as the Z axis guides are aligned parallel to each other and the bed free-falls without the belts attached. If you start monkeying around with counterweights, elastic cords, or springs, all bets are off.
Belt stretch isn't really an issue, but be sure to keep the working side of the belt loop parallel to the Z axis guide rails (just as you would keep lead screws parallel to the rails).
Since you're into old-school building techniques, you might be interested in a fine adjusting Z=0 switch I'm working on. The design uses a differential screw to move a flag for an opto interruptor by 100 um per full turn of the thumbwheel over a 2 mm range of adjustment.
The screw is an M5x0.8 mm that I turn down to 4 mm on a lathe and then threaded M4x0.7 mm. With the proper arrangement of nuts for the two screws, the movement per turn is the difference between the two screw pitches- 100 um.
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Just chipping in here as I literally took delivery of a V-Core Pro last week and began building this evening.
My experience with RatRig was exceptional. They customised my kit based on the specs I provided (default build volume but an extra Z-axis and rail, plus a few other changes) and from the point of paying to delivery was a little over a week. Everything is cut and tapped correctly and squarely, all packed exceptionally well and so far I've had zero issues assembling.
If I had any complaint, it's that the rails are really oily and need a good wipe down. I'm tempted to rebuild them using proper grease as I've just done on some other rails, but I'll cross that bridge when I get to it.
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@NexxCat said in Large corexy mechanical kit options:
Just chipping in here as I literally took delivery of a V-Core Pro last week and began building this evening.
My experience with RatRig was exceptional. They customised my kit based on the specs I provided (default build volume but an extra Z-axis and rail, plus a few other changes) and from the point of paying to delivery was a little over a week. Everything is cut and tapped correctly and squarely, all packed exceptionally well and so far I've had zero issues assembling.
If I had any complaint, it's that the rails are really oily and need a good wipe down. I'm tempted to rebuild them using proper grease as I've just done on some other rails, but I'll cross that bridge when I get to it.
Mate that's good news!
Rails and other shafts etc like that are often coated in spray grease etc just to stop it rusting on the shelf. Just wipe off the excess with a cloth or piece of kitchen paper and you're all good.
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@mrehorstdmd said in Large corexy mechanical kit options:
There are only two real concerns with a belt driven Z axis. You want to keep the bed from dropping like a rock when the Z motor loses power so a gear reduced drive helps. Specifically, a worm gear drive of sufficient ratio will keep the bed from moving at all if you want to be able to resume a print after power loss. Z axis print quality is a function of the quality of the gears used, especially the worm gear, as defects will cause repeating errors in the Z axis of your prints.
Thoughtful selection of the gear ratio and drive pulleys will allow you to use a nice, round steps/mm value that will get you nice, round full-step-multiple layer thicknesses in your prints, if that matters to you.
Backlash in the gears shouldn't matter as long as the Z axis guides are aligned parallel to each other and the bed free-falls without the belts attached. If you start monkeying around with counterweights, elastic cords, or springs, all bets are off.
Belt stretch isn't really an issue, but be sure to keep the working side of the belt loop parallel to the Z axis guide rails (just as you would keep lead screws parallel to the rails).
Since you're into old-school building techniques, you might be interested in a fine adjusting Z=0 switch I'm working on. The design uses a differential screw to move a flag for an opto interruptor by 100 um per full turn of the thumbwheel over a 2 mm range of adjustment.
The screw is an M5x0.8 mm that I turn down to 4 mm on a lathe and then threaded M4x0.7 mm. With the proper arrangement of nuts for the two screws, the movement per turn is the difference between the two screw pitches- 100 um.
@mrehorstdmd Thanks Mark,
Yes mate, all about the old school! So of course I love your little adjusting jigger there.
I've followed you work for a few years and we've spoke in the past in other places. I do like how you aim for turns of pulleys/threads/screws to have usable measurements in movement. After all, it costs no extra to do so, so yes please I'll come back to you closer to the time to review my pulley sizes etc when I've finished procrastinating.
No question about using the reduction gears, can't have the bed dropping. On a printer this size I would have preferred ball screws over lead screws, so the little reduction gearbox you used is not worrying me price wise if it works better. I like the keyed shaft through the center and the pillow blocks at the ends, which looks to keep the belt runs simple and in sync.
My questions to you are:
For this particular printer (V Core 2.0) using rollers not rails, is it worth doing compared to getting the 3x lead screw option and running them on a single belt? I did mention I'm not overly keen on lead screws over ball screws, but I guess I didn't like V slot rollers either until I used them.
On this particular kit, would 3 or 4 Z belts be better for a 400x400 bed, as an extra shaft/pulleys/pillow blocks/belt would not cost much more really, and (I think) would put no more load on the motor.
Cheers for your replies.
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@Corexy I haven't looked at Mark's design but I'm sure it works very well. For my own printer, I chose to use 3off 1mm lead, screws (8 X 1 single start) driven by a single motor and continuous belt and can say that works well too. For what it's worth, I'd say that either approach will work well. Maybe the way to decide would be to look at the cost and lead times (no pun intended) for each and see which would be the easiest to source in your part of the world.
Edit, my bed is also 400 X 400. -
@deckingman said in Large corexy mechanical kit options:
@Corexy I haven't looked at Mark's design but I'm sure it works very well. For my own printer, I chose to use 3off 1mm lead, screws (8 X 1 single start) driven by a single motor and continuous belt and can say that works well too. For what it's worth, I'd say that either approach will work well. Maybe the way to decide would be to look at the cost and lead times (no pun intended) for each and see which would be the easiest to source in your part of the world.
Edit, my bed is also 400 X 400.Cheers Ian,
I'm a strong believer in lifting the Z axis/bed via 3 points, for the same reason I like 3 point bed leveling. I not only want my build plate dead level and true, I want the mount plate it sits on to be close as well. I don't want to build something that's bent like a banana and ask 3 steppers and software to fix it up for me. To be honest I'd like to switch off all leveling, or at least have it that it only needs the mesh updated if I change/move something.
As the kit comes with the option of 3x lead screw, it's probably a big enough modding job to tie the 3 of them together with a timing belt, by the time I rig a belt tensioner etc.
I've got to sell something to fund this...Minister for Finance (and war) has hat a gut full of my shenanigans at the moment. been a bit spendy lately.
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@Corexy said in Large corexy mechanical kit options:
............To be honest I'd like to switch off all leveling, or at least have it that it only needs the mesh updated if I change/move something.
Yup - that's how mine is and it's so nice to be able to turn on the printer, select a file and hit print. My slicer start code calls a macro which heats everything up and runs home all but that's all I ever do. I've never used any form of firmware levelling or flatness compensation - being a mechanical engineer (retired) I always prefer the mechanical solutions. At the last TCT show, I took the XYUVAB assembly off the base which is the Z axis, put the bits in a van, transported it 60 odd miles, carried it to the stand, put it back together, set the Z offset (because I have to remove the Z axis switch when I take the the printer apart) and started printing. Didn't even bother to check that the bed was level. Did the same in reverse but when I got back home I did re-check the bed level - no adjustment required. Job's a good 'un.
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Yep, and for those who doubt the V slot rollers, these prints have come off a dead stock Ender 3 Pro. The only mods on this printer are 4x M4 nyloc nut on the bed leveling screws, and the ABS printed (which burned into my magnetic build "mat"....doh) fan shroud.
$311AUD delivered for the printer, plus $0.50 for nuts/plastic.
It's all about the mechanical setup and adjustment first. Software compensation should be the last and subtle resort.
Edit: Hope you don't mind, I fixed your image tags. @droftarts
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No worries at all. How do you do that, it's just started happening?
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@Corexy Nice prints!
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@deckingman said in Large corexy mechanical kit options:
@Corexy Nice prints!
Cheers mate.
I did just want to demonstrate the potential of the v slot wheel system, and to be honest with me being so crap on the keyboard I wanted to show that us old "mechanics" still have a place in the hobby lol.
@chas2706 said in Large corexy mechanical kit options:
Excellent print quality.
Any chance you can share your config.g?
Mate...I don't know how to tell you this, but that's a bone stock E3 Pro, with all it's 8 bit goodness.
The only things fitted to that printer are 4x M4 nut and a plastic fan shroud. I do have a few tricks up my sleeve in my S3D profile, but nothing too fancy.
I hope to demonstrate to new players that buying a printer and modding the hell out of it straight away is not necessary. Software compensation will not cover a multitude of sins either.
It needs to be assembled and adjusted correctly from the start.
I ran the same print on my Duet/Zortrax in ABS, but I've got a bad Z wobble that seems to be built into it when it reaches the top of its range. I've got to work out some sort of Z isolator for that one.
