WIP CoreXY with heated chamber
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Thank you!
Yes indeed it looks like it might, but I moved it to the right so it does not interfere. In the end, I will remove it, otherwise, the cable hose and liquid hose will be in touch with top cover and probably will mount cable chain.
The big thing I want to mount and test is a heated bed, but with this world situation of Corona I am already in a delay of 3 months...There is my latest benchy
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A bit of safety first! Kids around...
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Its also visible how cantilevered bed is quite stable.
Print test - 100mm/s internal perimeters, exterior got 77 mm/sec. -
And there is lighting, and top covered. Still waiting for a heated bed to come...
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Do those print cooling fans actually move any air? Axial fans don't usually work against the back pressure that any sort of flow restrictor produces.
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They do seems enough, but I must say they always on 75% to make me desirable result, meaning very loudly also :)).
Will you suggest to change on something else? I fully am open to comments and experience! -
Radial blowers move more air against the pressure produced by flow restrictors. This type of thing usually works better: https://www.amazon.com/FYSETC-Cooling-50x50x15mm-Radiator-Accessories/dp/B07NTKG9K4/ref=sr_1_15?crid=O279YCVTBA45&dchild=1&keywords=radial+fan+24v+for+3d+printer&qid=1585683940&sprefix=radial+fan%2Caps%2C168&sr=8-15
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Thanks! Ordered! Need to figured out the connection method, as I want to place watercooling block later on the extruder motors... It doest not matter the position of how I can place radial fans?
Industrial 3D printing service in the Netherlands - gagatstudio.com
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@felt342 I don't think the orientation of the blower matters, but probably best to check a data sheet if there is one.
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@mrehorstdmd
I see! I will design something and will post here to have a look.Industrial 3D printing service in the Netherlands - gagatstudio.com
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@felt342 The cyclops hotend by E3D may be a good option for IDEX since you already have a chimera. you can also water-cool that.
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@felt342 I'm looking forward to the finished build! Ive also got a corexy with a chimera hotend, although I'm not going as balls to the wall as you lol. Also i like your direct drive setup. is that your design or was that available online?
Old picture. Linear rails added and different carriage design, not my designCant stop tuning wont stop tuning.
Dbot, Custom i3, Voron 0&2 -
@Turbo Is that a dbot with a belted z axis? Link?
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@Phaedrux It was a custom design my friend made. I got this printer from him. I could see about putting them somewhere if hes cool with it, as he also gave me the files, but id have to make instructions or something.
Cant stop tuning wont stop tuning.
Dbot, Custom i3, Voron 0&2 -
@Turbo What's the gear ratio of the planetary box on the Z axis? Does it keep the bed from moving when power is cut? Any backlash?
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@mrehorstdmd
Not sure of the gear ratio on the box. I'll ask. When power is cut it doesn't fall, but i can move it down by hand. As for backlash, none as far as I can tell, still tuning though.
Edit: Z Motor (5.18:1)
Most Recent Benchy: .4 nozzle, .2layer height, 60mm/s.
Where I'm at currently
(Where I wanna be: My custom i3 at .2mm LH, 80mm/s)
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@Turbo said in WIP CoreXY with heated chamber:
@Phaedrux It was a custom design my friend made. I got this printer from him. I could see about putting them somewhere if hes cool with it, as he also gave me the files, but id have to make instructions or something.
If you can get some files or anything really that would be cool. I'm more interested to see how it was done than to implement it myself exactly as is. My Dbot is already pretty far off stock. The Z axis has always been a sore point and going to a belted design has always been in the back of my mind.
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Thank you! Nice machine you have too! Therefore you mentioned what you replaced wheels to linear rails. I was considering doing the same, but after I understand how wheels should be aligned and tightened I got almost perfect prints from it (to my needs), I don't think I need to change to rails? Maybe you can shine some light and tell the difference?
The direct drive extruder - is from Bondtech BMG x2. They have neat setup for chimera. Also, I like how you placed blowers, I might do the same.Industrial 3D printing service in the Netherlands - gagatstudio.com
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With that odd 5+2/11 ratio the minor flaws may be due to not using layer thickness that is a multiple of a full step in the motor. What value do you use for steps/mm in Z? If you tweak the layer thickness a bit it might get better. Do you use lift on retract? You might try turning that off, too.
That odd ratio is why I have been suspicious of using planetary gearboxes for Z axis. All the ones I have seen have odd ratios. Someone built a corexy printer at the makerspace using one of these and it produces prints that are as good as any I have ever seen. I don't know what ratio he used, but the gear boxes are whole number ratios that make it easy to set layer thickness to multiples of a full step.
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@felt342 said in WIP CoreXY with heated chamber:
I don't think I need to change to rails?
Nothing wrong with wheels. The only issues i've found are that the V slots and wheels must be cleaned occasionally, and the bearings of the mini V wheels can fail sometimes, especially if they are cheap chinese bearings and if they are over tensioned.
