My DIY Maestro powered Bed-Slinger (many photos inside)
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@Phaedrux said in My DIY Maestro powered Bed-Slinger (many photos inside):
The backlash nut would likely add
I'll do the test when the darn thing finally arrives... with a month of strike the amount of backlog our post office now has and the half of January in holidays I'm lucky if I get it during winter
My first experience with Z screws and anti-backlash nuts was some ~10 years ago on RapMan by bitsfrombytes (the duet team surely knows them, they were from uk too, one of the pioneers) and they used plexy + two M8 screws with a spring to create anti-backlash contraption. The first mod for rapman was to remove that spring as a bed that heavy had no need for those springs
and that simple mod made the Z work great (and mind they used nema23 motors, quite power ones) ... so yes I also believe that nut will lose the anti-backlash part ... but .. will know when it arrive -
@mrehorstdmd said in My DIY Maestro powered Bed-Slinger (many photos inside):
If all you're worried about is the bed somehow doing some damage when it drops, almost anything can be used including putting a couple springs at the bottom of the Z axis so the bed will make a soft landing.
It can still generate quite the voltage spike even if the mechanical fall is cushioned; and again - print resume with shorted coils work just fine for the tolerances applicable in consumer 3d printer as proven by Tiertimes design in the Up Mini 2. I can find a flat earther leaflet for you if you wanna keep arguing pointless stuff:P
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Hey all,
thanks for the discussion around keeping the bed, or x-axis beam in my case, steady without enabled steppers. Let's postpone this discussion though, as it seems to get a little pointless without test results from my side.
... I hope to make some progress this weekend.
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@mrehorstdmd said in My DIY Maestro powered Bed-Slinger (many photos inside):
I've broken taps in plates before.
You can use Alum to dissolve a broken drill or steel tap in aluminum.
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First off I have to say that is quite the beautiful build. Do you have it modeled and etc in Fusion 360 or some similar program? Also would you mind sharing your source for black pei? I've been looking for a pei that isn't clear. Is it actually pei or more like buildtak?
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@sonderzug said in My DIY Maestro powered Bed-Slinger (many photos inside):
the obvious disadvantage is that the x-axis drops like a stone when the steppers have no power applied
A geared motor like this one could keep it in place when power goes off.
https://forum.duet3d.com/topic/12942/get3d-free-give-away-free-extruder/17?_=1577063841912
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Hi all,
"next weekend" turned into a few weeks, but with the holidays and everything I only had limited time to work on this project. However, the remodeling is more or less completed.
I announced that I would be ditching the igus linear rails. I did so in favor of used/new old stock THK linear rails that I obtained from ebay. In particular, I bought RSR12 (ZMUU) and RSR9 (WVM - double wide rail) rails, which will help this build achieve a much higher mechanical quality but will also be carried over to future builds (the lenghts allow for a bigger build volume than this has).
The problem with the igus rails was, as mentioned, that I chose the square profile rails which are not tensionable. The round profile drylin W rail has options for setting the tension of the gilder with a screw.For the new rails, I obviously had to account for the missing structural components of the drylin rails. The easiest and most precise thing for me was to have aluminium sheets lasercut for my purpose. So this is what I did.
I further wanted to eliminate the cheap chinese belt idlers, which I replaced with 608zz bearings on which the backsides of the belt run. Obviously there are no flanges to guide the belt, which is a bigger problem than I anticipated, so I will have to replace some of those with flanged bearings.
I opted for genuine Gates GT3 belt, to eliminate further influence from cheap components. So far the print results are way better than before, regarding the quality aspects that can be traced to the mechanics of the printer.
Pictures:
the x-axis plate has mounting options for the rail, idler, motor and optical endstop. The stepper motor is mounted in a seperate printed part that allows it to be pivoted around the lower mounting hole, allowing to tension the belt.
This arrangement is copied for the y-axis. The heatbed will be mounted like before.
assembled and running:
right now the printer is printing some parts for itself, namely the cooling ducts for hotend and part.
A short glimpse under the hood:
Why the board hasn't been mounted with it's edge facing outward to easily connect the ethernet cord, I can't tell
I didn't deem it too important at the time, unfortunately.I still have to tidy up the cabling of the hotend as well; the cables are connected with two 8-pin connectors for which I want to design plug housings and strain reliefs as well.
On the topic of the x-axis falling down when the power is taken off the steppers.... yes it will of course, and unfortunately also when the stepper's coils are shorted. I will design a little lever that the x-axis can run over at the z-max end, which will snap into place to keep the x-axis up after power-off; I have a RC servo lying around which I will use to release it automatically.
I'm overall happy with the rebuild and hope I'll be able to use the printer for railway modelling etc. in the future.
Best regards, Niklas
