wanhao duplicator 9
-
@Jon said in wanhao duplicator 9:
@smece I have a duplicator 9 and just now saw this, I am happy to share my config with you, although I'm guessing you may have figured it out by now.
share
I converted my ender5, d9 is friends machine and he has not started yet so having your config will help for surethanks!
-
Terribly sorry for the long wait for reply, but here ya go. I'm running V1.04 with Firmware Version: 2.04 (2019-11-01b1)
WiFi Server Version: 1.22 & web Interface Version: 1.22.6
--Please note that I have the left and right Z motors NOT hooked up together like you are used to seeing stock but instead setup for auto level with macros, so please attach the right Z motor to E1 and the left Z motor to the "drive 2" with jumpers in, as shown in the wiring schematic "option A". This has been VERY reliable and consistent as is.Also,
-- everything following X_ is simply a note to myself about changes I have made that is different from the standard settings.--my bed temp sensor is mapped to the "E1" thermistor, NOT the bed sensor as mine was too short.
--My hot end and parts cooling fans are on "Fan0" & "Fan1" I cant remember which one is which though...
--above settings tab, please create new marcos by hitting "+make new", then "macro" and pick a title. Mine is "Auto Level X Gantry" (allows push button auto level) and paste this in it:
G28 ; home
G30 P0 X30 Y125 Z-99999 ; probe near the left leadscrew, in the middle of the Y axis
G30 P1 X302 Y125 Z-99999 S2 ; probe near the right leadscrew and calibrate 2 motors--again, create another one, I call it "reset BLTouch Error" and paste:
M280 P3 S160 I1 ; reset blinking BLTouch error
that will save you 10 min of frantic googling if your BLTouch starts blinking leaving you stuck, hopefully you never need it...
Have fun, you have the best hardware you could imagine!
If you desire stl mounts im happy to share what I have, let me know if you have ANY questions as I will now get a notification of any input.
Again, sorry for the delay... -
To elaborate on the stl files if you would like, places board with the antenna and SD card at the location where that cable mounts to it. Works acceptably well reception wise. My screen is the 4.3" (smallest screen from filastruder.com) and fits like a charm.... AFTER you break the orig mounts off and put mine is that is... yes, its clean looking!
-This setup assumes you have a BLTouch, mine is V2.2 with the little cutout that you scribe through to change voltage.
-Hotend heater is hooked up to "E0 Heater"
-underneath case fan is connected to "FAN2" and like the upper fan for the red heatsink is temp controlled and WON'T turn on until (i think) 40c. I have a fan mounted under the board that runs all the time as suggested by Duet-End stop sensors:
Z: not used (BLTouch is used)
Y: yep, the beds Y switch
X: uh huh, you guessed it... the X gantry switch!
E0: filament run out switch, setup as a simple switch that is setup to be "open" with filament in it, if you don't have that now its ok, it will still run but will be fully functional once you install it.
-All end stop switch's are connected to pins "GND & STOP" only. Polarity does not matter on any of them. -
bed.g config.g deployprobe.g homeall.g homex.g homey.g homez.g pause.g retractprobe.g sleep.g stop.g tpost0.g
Since I'm terrible at this uploading / posting thing that most of take for granted, I would appreciate any pointers for easier steps to provide this info as well as any editing someone can add to improve operation of "our" setup. -
Oh yeah, I almost forgot! I use Cura and it requires different start and end Gcode which took me several days to figure out... here ya go, copy and paste into cura:
START:
G28 ; home all axes
G92 E0 ; zero the extruded length
G1 Z15 F500 ; raise the extruder 15mm
G1 E3 F100 ; extrude 3mm of feed stock
G1 X25 Y20 Z.15 F300 ; move to bed to prep for purge
G1 X30 E8 F500 ; start purge of 8mm blob in 5mm to nab boogers
G1 X110 E8 F700 ; finish purge line with 8mm & final fast wipe
G1 Z0 ; end of prime & lower nozzle
G92 E0 ; zero the extruded length
M82 ; extruder absolute modeEND:
M83 ; extruder relative mode
G1 E-5 F3000 ; retract filament 5mm fast
G91 ; relative positioning
G1 Z+4 X-20 Y20 F1000 ; move Z up 4mm & move X/Y away
G90 ; absolute positioning
G1 X3 Y205 F800 ; move X/Y to end position
M104 S0 ; reduce extruder heat to zero
G10 P0 R-273.15 S-273.15 ; turn off extruder heat
M140 S-273.15 ; was M140 S0 turn off bed heat
M18 ; disable motors -
Thanks a million. No worries for the delay, the D9 conversion is not yet started so this will save us a lot of time
-
My pleasure! Any other questions just let me know
-
I'm sure we'll have questions when the conversion starts, friend's waiting on some parts and our post is in strike so who knows when he'll start conversion.. I assume when he start he'll join the forum himself and ask questions
-
I am also planning on upgrading my wanhao d9, and I am wondering, how did you wire up the splitter board?
-
The splitter board is simply an easy was for Wanhao to assemble everything as the wiring stock is not ideal (4 28awg wires for the 40w heater...) so I the removed it entirely and saved the weight. As nice looking as the singular black cable is on the stock setup, I now have everything wired directly to the Duet board. An organized mess if you will.
-
A random stream of consciousness....
Please note as well, the settings above are with stock motors and while they don't publish motor specs, after an hour or so print on the stock board vs the Duet board the motor temps were within a couple degrees of each other. This is assuming voltage changes temp like it does with everything else. The steps are set for a Bondtech extruder & motor (if you don't have that it just adjust the steps). I have not tested the V1 sensor, only the BLtouch which is mounted BEHIND the hotend using the stock Wanhao adaptor, which is actually 28mm and to the right and -25 behind the nozzle. If you have it anywhere else, that's fine, you simply need to measure and change the value to reflect in config.g on this line --> G31 P500 X28 Y-25 Z.75
Z.75 will need adjustment for the nozzle to sit at the proper level to the bed. Currently mine is at Z1.84 right now but yours may vary. Starting at .75 should keep you safe but you must verify this. You will find this changes when you take apart your nozzle.
