Height Map from my updated MarkForged style printer
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@jens55 Did the OO file work?
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Yes it did except it did not display the graphs of the rows and column values which although neat, is not that important to me.
I have not had an opportunity to look at the underlying code yet. -
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It doesn't give me permission to access.
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I now have permission - thanks
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Looking at the code behind the spreadsheet, there seems to be nothing there that sets the colour. Is that something that is done through formatting or similar (ie not on a cell level)?
As you can tell, my spreadsheet foo is very low
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@jens55 No worries, that's called 'conditional formatting' - check this out: https://support.google.com/docs/answer/78413?co=GENIE.Platform%3DDesktop&hl=en
So, if you select all the cells with red/blue/white and do a 'right-click' - you should have a menu pop-up. On the near bottom of the menu should be 'conditional formatting'. Select that and you should see the formatting rule for those blocks on the upper left on the screen. Click on that and you'll see the logic it uses to colorize the cells.
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I don't get the option of the formatting ... probably because the document is read only.
No matter, I have learned a lot. I have also found conditional formatting in OO and will explore things through OO.
Thanks for your help! -
@jens55 No worries, I just a copy of my saved sheet so I changed it to edit enable - give it a shot if you want, can't really hurt anything.
And I just tried loosening the screws and retighten while hot, it didn't really do anything. So I'll probably get brass standoffs, put those on, measure mesh, and lightly sand down offsets until satisfied.
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Why would you bother to reduce the offsets? It's an excellent height map to begin with but then you also have the bed compensation to look after the remaining error. More than likely, you are trying to make improvements well beyond the capabilities of the printer itself.
I find that the kind of lightweight printers most of us have are so full of compromises everywhere that unless there is a likelihood of substantial improvements, I don't bother. Most minor improvements like this get drowned out in the overall picture and only get realized in combination with other improvements. By the time you actually see the difference of your improvement, there isn't much left of the original printer.
An example - I have a CR10-S5 printer that has a 4 mm glass plate on the build plate and therefore considerable mass that gets moved back and forth for the Y travel. I get a fair bit of ringing. The table that the printer sits on is lag bolted to the wall in 5 or 6 locations and it easily handles me jumping up and down on it (I am overweight). Nevertheless, with all that mass and strength, the printer rattles the wall the table is bolted to and therefore the house. It is simply the wrong kind of design for a 500 mm * 500 mm printer.
I am sure I can tweak things here or there for marginal improvements (and I do) but no matter what I do short of slowing this thing to a crawl, I will never get rid of ringing and related issues. -
@jens55 All good points. Out of habit, I always try to get everything as perfect as I can, however futile it may be at times. For now it really comes down to how bored I get (on covid lockdown now - so pretty bored), how much money it costs (maybe $5 dollars for standoffs - but already have them), and how much time it will take.
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Sounds good ... more power to you !
As an additional point, I find that my height map changes a bit every time I run it. Even if I got it juuuust right, the next time I run the height mapping it would be off.
My height map also looks more like the rocky mountains then your plains of Saskatchewan (yes, I am in Canada) -
@jens55 said in Height Map from my updated MarkForged style printer:
Yup, mine used to shift the same way until I ripped the frame apart and did the Zaribo 10mm upgrade. Since then the repeatability, and quality, has been amazing. Maybe shifting from the PindaV2 to BLTouch also helped.
I have been in the Rockys, but I don't think I ever made to Saskatchewan - closest I got was the Canada Falls side and further yet, Halifax. -
Had to look that up but amazing that upgrading a couple of rods from 8 mm to 10 mm would make such a difference. This is just to upgrade the Z axis round rods right ?
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@jens55 All rods, this is the base now: https://zaribo.com/home/205-2314-zaribo-220-mk3s-rel-3.html#/84-extruder-bondtech_mk3s/94-psu-320_w_meanwell/100-steel_sheet-thekkiinngg/102-hotend-mosquito/103-heater-e3d_40w/135-rods-10mm/138-display-lcd/140-therm-e3d/143-carriage-mk52_blocks
Other stuff was done like different motors, redesigned extruder with BLTouch, and some others. -
Ahh, that makes more sense now. Thanks for clarifying.
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@jens55 No worries. I have been slowly redesigning the entire extruder assembly in Solidworks, so that it is more compact and that the weight is evenly distributed between front and back - current design has all the weight on the front side which I do not like.
For your printer shaking, have you tried to decouple it from the table it's on? For example, mine is on a marble slab with jell feet between the marble and table - made quite a difference for me. -
It is decoupled to some extent but could be improved.
IMHO decoupling will prevent the printer shaking the house but that won't help with the quality of the print because it is still shaking all over the place. The only way to solve the shaking is to go to a design that doesn't try to sling a heavy dead weight (build plate) all over the place. -
Yeah, nothing is perfect. I guess it all comes down to managing; accuracy <--> habitability <--> feasibility
