Mosquito vs water cooling
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Why have 4 pushfits?
You could make a u shape inside your watercooling.
It will reduce the flow but will increase the heat exchange. -
@jens55 said in Mosquito vs water cooling:
OK so the water cooling block is a straight through drill and then a loop on the far side back into the cooler ?
Exactly.
The ptfe tube goes straight to the heat break ?
Yes.
I assume the top thing is the ptfe coupling ?
No, this is the standard groove for hotends. It is designed for direct extruding. But you can modify this part (3D-printed) for Bowden, using a coupler thread.
Is the nut captive somehow in the assembly ? How ?
The 3D-printed part is made in 2 parts (split along the vertical axis), and glued together (there are 2 holes to help aligning it. Here is a closer view:
Sorry about all the questions ....
You welcome! This design hasn't beed tested, and I would love to have feedback if you go that way.
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@tech-raton said in Mosquito vs water cooling:
Why have 4 pushfits?
Easier to do.
You could make a u shape inside your watercooling.
How? I only have a drill...
It will reduce the flow but will increase the heat exchange.
It is the same, as I use a small external tube to make the half turn.
Frédéric
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@tech-raton said in Mosquito vs water cooling:
On the delta, the hotend is a maxiwatt with a homemade silicon sock
Thanks! I'll have a look at this block...
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Ahh, clever! If the ptfe tube is captured by clamping pressure that seems to make clearing a clog kinda tough ???
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@jens55 said in Mosquito vs water cooling:
Ahh, clever! If the ptfe tube is captured by clamping pressure that seems to make clearing a clog kinda tough ???
As said, I didn't test it, and it may not work as expected. A longer heat break should be better, but I'm not sure if we can find one... But yes, the PTFE tube has to be clampled down, with the above part (extruder or bowden push fit).
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Well I think that it shows great promise!
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The goal of this design was to be able to use it in a standard setup (groove), but if you can customize the extruder side, it might be improved...
Another thing to check is if the 3D-printed part can handle the temperature. It should if the water flow is good, but better use PET-G or ABS. -
@tech-raton said in Mosquito vs water cooling:
And yes with a piezo as z probe
Do you have a CAD design of your setup, with Piezo? It is a nice and compact solution...
Frédéric
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Ok, I see for the U. I will do that the next time!
STEP is ok for the CAD files. Thanks!
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Do any of you guys have any links to the tube, fittings, and pump that you use. I'd like to use the smallest possible tubing and the quietest possible pump.
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I'm about to test a car windshield water pump, for which I made a custom tank. I don't know if it will last long if on all the time, but it was on my old 350000km car, and still working fine! I think it is unbreakable
It has very small outputs, good for 2mm ID silicone tubes. The nice thing is it has 2 outputs (front and rear windshields), depending on the rotation direction of the pump, it sends water on one or the other.
See :
https://www.oscaro.com/pompe-de-lave-glace-peugeot-806-2-0-i-turbo-149cv-794-22222-0-gt# -
@fma Those things tend to be bloody noisy. You don't really notice it when it's fitted in the engine bay, the other side of a bulkhead covered in sound deadening material. I don't think I could put up with one of those screaming away continuously, but let me know how you get on with it.
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I agree, at full speed, it is very noisy! But I think it will be ok to use it under 3V or 4V, so it should be much quiter.
Frédéric
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@fma said in Mosquito vs water cooling:
But I think it will be ok to use it under 3V or 4V,
let us know how you get on and what flow rate you get with 2mm ID and undervolting the pump
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In my current setup, I already have 2mm ID tubes, and a under-volted membrane pump. So I think it should be OK.
We don't need a large flow rate, as water as a higher heat capacity than air, and a much higher thermal conductivity.
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@deckingman said in Mosquito vs water cooling:
Do any of you guys have any links to the tube, fittings, and pump that you use. I'd like to use the smallest possible tubing and the quietest possible pump.
I get that stuff locally so you would not find links of much use but what I learned so far
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stuff you can purchase in pet store (or if you have aquarium specific store even better) is low noise, low energy efficient, rather cheap and operate under low pressure and are big in size
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stuff you can purchase in computer store is usually low to medium noise, higher energy efficiency, and operate under middle-high pressure and are small in size
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stuff you buy in hardware store is high noise level, good energy efficiency, and full span of pressures
When I can afford big pipes (1/2" or bigger) I go with 100W+ aquarium pumps. Note that aquarium pumps come in few "types" you want the ones you sink in the water that push water, not those that push air bubbles and use air bubbles to push water. I use those type of pumps for cooling my 3kW spindle motor for e.g.
When I can't go with large pipes (below 1/2") I tend to use computer watercooling stuff. Usually there's a pump with integrated coolant storage. Something like this:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32971424272.html
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000083360760.htmlall the fittings and pipes I buy in petshop (actually I have a specialized aquarium-related shop near my appt so I go there)
For the heat exchanger for cooling water I use BMW AC exchanger. Locally in the "used car parts" store I can get a very compact (10x5x3cm is what I have, different models come with different sized exchange but all are super compact) water-air heat exchanger used for car A/C in the BMW. That "miniature" thing is capable of dissipating over 1kW of heat!!!! so for most operations I use it without a fan, by adding a 120mm fan you can remove 1kW
they are freaking awesome
I plan to experiment with chillers too, they are rather expensive so I plan to test making some
- using Peltier elements by attaching cold side to the tank and hot side with a big static cooler
- using air dryer (they are basically a heat pump, with both exchange meshes one after another so air hits the cold one first, condenses the water that drips in collector and than the cooled air hits the hot part of the heat pump that heats the air close to the temp it entered so you do not change the overall temperature of the air - much, but you remove moisture) by dunking the cold side in the water tank and leaving hot side as is being cooled by fan
Anyhow this is a plan for distant future and probably unneeded.
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