Printing Clay at the Resolution of Plastics
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@tom_lauerman Thanks for that, and you are talking to a retired mechanical engineer, so it makes perfect sense.
Off topic I know but have you heard of Delft pottery? It's well know in Europe. I'm in the UK but we were in the Netherlands a few years back and visited the Delft factory. They told us that they actually import their clay from Cornwall in the UK. So if ever I give this go, I'll know where to get clay from.
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@deckingman Yes, Delft clay is well known worldwide, beautiful stuff. A lot of the porcelain we use here in the states is also of UK origin, so we always curse the shipping cost. Probably the best porcelains in the world are in China, but maybe the brightest white clay in the world comes from New Zealand and is a type called Halloysite.
That said, I don't always prefer porcelain. Simple red terracotta clay can be found anywhere in the world (I think) and is wonderful stuff to work with.
Its a lot like filaments I guess, and maybe porcelain is like some exotic nylon that is difficult to print, but terracotta is like PLA (if PLA had a 30,000 year history of use). Not a perfect analogy! -
@tom_lauerman said in Printing Clay at the Resolution of Plastics:
I have exchanged probably thousands of forum posts and emails with Unfold studio! I have yet to meet them in person sadly, as they are in Belgium,
I'm much closer to him geographically but in 10+ years I never met him in person neither... (must admit have not spoken to him in ~6 years
.. time flies)but I had difficulty with its brittleness
dunno if you had a chance to check out eSUN filament boxes? they solve this problem
as they preheat the filament, you can chose the temp zone (1-4) and how long you want it to heat the filament, it also measures filament non stop so you know how much you have left (not very accurate but..) .. I ordered one from HK and loved it and now ordered another 10 would be useful for kai's and bunch of other filaments, especially ugly ones like brittle 3mm natural pla or water loving nylon ( http://www.esun3d.net/products/246.html ) ... not very useful for real wet clay ...thanks for sharing the details, I was expecting you are using moineau pump to get that precise extrusion rates, piston+auger ... must be some precise machining
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@tom_lauerman Thanks for the lesson - very informative. You obviously know your subject. If I every decide to build a clay printer, and need answers, I'll know who to ask.
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@smece Interesting about the filament boxes, I haven't seen those. I think preheating would really help with printing Kai's filament. Thanks for the link.
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@deckingman Many thanks! I've been working with ceramics more or less full time for 20 years, so I've picked up a few things
I'm going to revisit dual extrusion with a teeter-totter system (nozzle not in use moves up and out of the way) in the near future and a year or so ago this forum gave me some very good staring advice on that, much appreciated. -
Hello, @tom_lauerman I would like to know what software you use to cut your STL's, since as I currently understand the prints are calculated from solid mm of filament and in your case you use clay, what parameters do you move or what is the configuration and how do you find it?
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It's been 30 years or so that I've last tried to make something out of clay - but I remember very clearly being warned about trapped air bubbles, since they expand in the oven and may cause the hardened part to shatter (and damage parts around it). You appear to be using infill structures similar to "regular" 3D printing - how do you deal with that?
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@jhonf441 Thanks for your interest, sorry for the slow reply, I hadn't seen your reply until just now. I use Slic3r, Prusa Slicer, or Cura to prepare the files for clay printing. I've made a printer configuration that works for my custom system. Because I am using a 50mm diameter tube of clay as "filament" I can input the diameter of the filament in the slicer as 50mm. Believe it or not, the slicers handle this just fine, doing the correct calculations to account for a 50mm filament being pushed through a 1mm or so nozzle.
As for air pockets, one really just has to be sure the material is thoroughly dry and has heat added at an appropriate rate of increase. Rushing the firing or putting damp work in the kiln would be problematic. The concern is to not turn trapped water into steam, causing an explosion. Printing offers some advantages with this as it is possible to have very uniform wall thicknesses as well as very thin walls.
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@tom_lauerman hello I would like to know more about the correct calculations to take into account that a 50 mm filament is pushed through a nozzle of approximately 1 mm, how is the calculation?
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@jhonf441 Hello again, I maybe made that sound more complex than it is, here goes again:
In my slicing program under filament diameter I use a value of 50mm.
Also in the slicing program, I set the nozzle diameter for the printer to 1mm.The slicing program knows from these settings just the right rate of speed at which to advance the plunger through the syringe, because I have an extruder e-step value that is accurate. If I send a command to extrude 10mm the plunger moves downward 10mm.
Many other tweaks can be made, such as "flow multiplier" in the slicer, or realtime extruder motor adjustments in the Duet web interface for fine tuning.
The speed of the auger in my tool can be adjusted independently as well in the Duet web interface. However, the auger isn't really pulling the clay through the feed tube, just helping avoid lag or oozing.
I hope that makes more sense.
