autocalibration target
-
@jay_s_uk so theoretically there are physical aspects that can be improved that would bring this down, but what I have should be enough to start getting decent prints that I can then fine-tune my dimensions from?
Perhaps it would be worth putting in the guides somewhere what the autocalibration deviation figure means in real life @dc42? I have done loads of reading and havent found anything that gives an indication of what this actually means. I can understand the mesh bed as the picture tells a huge part of the story and you can see what needs to be resolved!
0.067 sounds small to me, but is three time what you bigger delta is returning @jay_s_uk
-
@Dugee It'll certainly be fine to get you printing.
What type of effector and rods do you have?
And are you rollers or linear rails for your XYZ towers? -
@jay_s_uk it's a monoprice mini delta that I'm slowly going to enlarge and improve. 8mm linear rods, igus bearings, under bed switches for z probe.
As I get accuracy I'm going to add an e3d hot end, I'm waiting for carbon fibre to arrive to make better, more accurate arms,
It's as much a learning experience for me as it is an actual printer.!
-
@Dugee Changing the arms on my big delta made the biggest improvement in the deviation value for me.
-
@jay_s_uk magball arms would be a pain on this machine at the moment, but I don't have a lot of confidence in the existing ones all being the same. I'm going to gt2 from s2m belts soon, but I don't want to do this until I can get the dimensional accuracy dialled in enough to print some upgraded parts printed.
Hell, I need to get some printing done so I can get my psu and duet board mounted properly., before I do anything else!!!!! And for this I need to get the set up right!
-
@Dugee I would just go ahead and get printing. For getting everything mounted you'll have no problems with what you can print.
I would also print all the parts you need to change the belts etc. Then change your arms and see how everything comes out.
Then, if needed, you can reprint parts with your more accurate printer. -
i agree with @jay_s_uk. dont try to fix a problem before you know that you actually have a problem.
any change can also have a negative effect. that is why you also only change on thing at a time.
start with the basic setup for the delta. look at the results and then decide on the next step.
dont jump into the advanced parts before you have done the basics.
-
@Veti yup. I know I have a way to go before getting that advanced. Getting there slowly though. 6 months ago I'd never even considered trying 3d printing.
-
@Veti by necessity I've changed drive gear and idler, upgraded to capricorn tubing, installed different endstops, upgraded bed clips, rewired under bed switches and installed a glass bed. Not to mention getting a Duet board.
Although it's a much better board, it only cost me about £10 more than getting a replacement standard board from USA and was actually in stock.
The biggest thing I've learned from what I've done so far is to triple check nozzle/heater block/throat position. The problems I had because the nozzle didn't seat against the throat were mental. Couldn't understand why pla was oozing when the nozzle was tight against the block. Noob.
-
Can't be too bad generally. I'm about half way through a 100mm cylindrical multi height tower to check z height. Looks OK, printing on glass with a brim.
Allowing me to measure 5, 20, 50, 80, 95 and 100mm on my z. I may have gone too far with the design, but gives the machine a good work out and looks pretty. Spreadsheet sitting waiting for measurements to be inputted. At least I'll get my motor steps /mm sorted out today.
If I can I'll stick a pic up when it's done.
-
FYI, I adjusted my belt tensions and immediately the autocalibration deviation fell to 0.35-0.40. Simple improvement.
-
@Dugee You're getting there!
