Please help me tune my custom printer
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How long is the Bowden tube and what length retraction are you using with it. I think you'll see the largest improvement by dropping the hot end temperature unless you are printing at very high speed. The volcano has a large melt chamber and you'll find that for "normal" speeds you can use a much lower temperature than you have been used to. My hot end also has a large melt chamber and I regularly print at 10 to 15 degrees below the manufacturers recommendations because it gives me far better results. But try and see - every printer is different.
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I will try that now and tube is 700mm long with 3mm retraction
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Ian I have a 300x300mm machine with Volcano 0.8mm on it and stopped using this one because I cannot sustain the filament requirements
Of course I'm building a machine for each hotend type I have, so it's ok. And I have a big E3D box.
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Ian I have a 300x300mm machine with Volcano 0.8mm on it and stopped using this one because I cannot sustain the filament requirements
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So you wouldn't like my 350 x 375 x 750 with 5 colour Diamond that takes 5 reels at a time
I also have a 0.9mm diameter Diamond but that's only 3 colour. I bought it for printing T Glass but having re-mortgaged the house to buy 3 reels of T glass, I'm saving it for something really special -
Oh, I read your other comment about this. This was in response to that.
I would love it, but I'd have to make a version with a 0.2mm nozzle for myself so that I could use 5 filament color scraps instead of 5 reels.
If we count all my half-built/ torn apart frames, I now have 20 printers.
Deltaprintr Delta Go
Vslot Mini Kossel
P3steel (makerfront i3, heavily modified)
2 x Wanhao Duplicator i3 - heavily upgraded. First one just became my best printing machine, second one is getting a diy 4x y splitter like prusa multimaterial.
Duplicator i3 Plus. On the list for modifications.
3 custom designed sheet metal based on CNC machanics - this is the 300mm^3 frame.
Also have 1 where this was a box frame from 20x40 extrusion instead of a folded sheet metal frame.
Yellowjacket (small 200x200 of the same frame type)
Still have the 80/20 Frame from the gmax I tried to build as my first printer.
600x600mm frame from 20x40 vlsot
5 frankenbot. Our clone of the old laser cut wood Printrbot Plus, BOM around $125.DICE.
I spend over $250 buying 18kg of PLA at a time from Microcenter.
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right guys part cooling fan and abs seams to fail regardless of what I'm trying ? maybe its to powerful… ? print bite temperature settings ? bed 115deg and hot end 220deg ? what do you guys think to retraction settings ?
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how is best for me to upload the simplify 3d ff file ?
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now things have gotten harder i tried updating the firmware with he web interface and it restarted as i had expected but can't connect to it both online and through usb ?
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What firmware versions were you upgrading from and to? Did you read the upgrade notes first?
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original wifi firmware to the most recent 1.19.2 followed this https://duet3d.com/wiki/Updating_WiFi_firmware_or_DuetWebControl_files
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Did you read the upgrade notes?
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No just looked at instructions i was in a rush to get updated because of the heated bed issue. Is it fixable ?
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Yes, but now you will need to install the new DuetWiFiServer.bin by copying it to /sys on the SD card in a PC. The upgrade notes link to https://duet3d.com/wiki/Upgrading_to_DuetWiFiFirmware_1.19.
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looking at this only one issue i can't connect to the printer through usb (i will get another usb cable to double check) even after the erase and reset having spoken to Roland this afternoon
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just not working for me but i am coming up to the nec tomorrow may be better in person if i bring the board up ?
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Right chaps board is back from repair thanks to me not reading the instructions
while it was away i have done loads of hardware mods main one is cutting the top off with my cmc mill and wedding a new one on (first one was in stainless and it warped) everything is working fine aside from the bed temperature input showing 2000 Deg c my config file has not changed checked the resistance of the sensor 100 ohm ish at room temperature not sure whats gone on there can anyone help out ?
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just to isolate board issue i changed it out for my brand new duet wifi at the same problem is it because of the new firmware change ? i have a p100 temp sensor for the hot end and I'm using the on board thermistor connection next to the heated bed power out ?
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There was a firmware change in 1.19 that requires an M305 command in config.g for each thermistor channel you use. So if you don't have a M305 P0 command in config.g, you need to add one. For example:
M305 P0 T100000 B3950
Replace the B parameter by the B value of your bed thermistor, if you know it.
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Those settings worked a treat
thanksfew more things both printers both running the duetwifi seem to time out on the network intermittently need to power cycle to get them back on ?
also an existing issue with print surface print bite is proving a nightmare right now resorted to playing to the one printer more tuned and to stick ! cleaned and wet paper towelled the bed to no avail needed printbite because the one printer is my production one and i wanted to just pull the parts off they need to be abs for the oil rigs only managed to send out 10 ! any other surfaces that are reliable tried buildtak but its to adhesive sometimes
