How to Home Z on Dbot CoreXY??
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So does the Z (drive 2) endstop switch status change to 'stopped' when the bed is at an appropriate height?
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No the end stop status never changes, of course that is due to orientation of that end stop looking straight at you rather than looking down at the floor. When I manually push it, the status does change from no to yes and so forth. So that end stop is working, just apparently it is not setup mechanically right. Some how the configuration was working before, because when you hit home Z it would go and probe the bed or maybe it was just making it's rounds around the bed. I assume they setup via configuration to do that. If I can some how modify that to do it again, I will fabricate a new arm for the end stop and position it correctly so that the stop hits the end of the bolt. When I do that, should the extruder actually be touching the bed when the end stop is active or just before it touches the bed? Nonetheless do you see anyway to make this work until then.
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And am I correct in saying that the bed has to be completely homed in before it will actually begin to print?
I you look at this guys setup, he seems to have the end stop in the same position in the back right corner. I may be new to this machine, but seems like a waste of an end stop if nothing is going to activate it or why even have it.
https://cdn.thingiverse.com/renders/82/59/35/7f/66/f6a3e2daee352ac560b4c4cc8efe4021_preview_featured.jpg -
To make it work until then, you can home Z manually. First home X and Y. Then command the head to the centre of the bed, and command the bed up until the nozzle just touches the bed, or just grips a sheet of paper. Make sure that your slicer start gcode does not include a G28 command to home the printer.
It doesn't matter whether the Z homing switch triggers exactly when the nozzle touches the bed or slightly earlier, as long as the switch doesn't physically prevent the nozzle touching the bed.
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I tried that Simplfy 3d but it executed the command and messed up. I have engineered a functioning Z end stop. Now the X is the only thing homing. I found this tool for writing firmware.
https://configurator.reprapfirmware.org
If I knew all of the correct information too input, wouldn't it write the firmware for this setup, fairly easily? I don't know if I am savy enough to know all of the details to input without assistance to correctly get everything right. I tried to import my config file just to see what it would do, but it won't accept it, therefore I don't want to monkey around with it to much till I am certain. You have been big help. I know I am not far away from seeing this thing work.
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does it use a switch mounted on the rails on the back or does it have a probe?
If it has a switch on the back do you see wires coming off of that switch or have they come unplugged?
A probe will be mounted to the XY carriage that holds the hotend. Can you post pics of your printer? I have a C-bot myself, and there is also a facebook group for the C/D bots that may be able to help if it is an actual hardware issue and not firmware or controller.
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I removed the code from the slicer and attempted to print. No luck, it actually dropped the bed down several inches and proceeded to print. So that is not going to work. I have no choice but to figure the homing issue out before hand.
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The switch originally mounted to the back of the rail, but it did seem to serve a purpose, because when the bed came all the way up, it didn't hit the stop due to the orientation. I don't think the bot is equipped with a probe. Here are photos of my bot. It was original configured as a D, but the builder decided to use a single motor on the Z, I think so it would be easier to configure, which I am fine with. Right now the only axis that will home correctly is X. Any advice you can give would be appreciated.
Here is the original end stop rail
The one I changed, but can change back
http://i1081.photobucket.com/albums/j346/titancornhusker/Dbot%20CoreXY/8FB1D025-6057-43FC-9F9B-5A50ED1B6C6A_zpsapwrc0n8.jpgThe stop mount I had to rig to make switch active
http://i1081.photobucket.com/albums/j346/titancornhusker/Dbot%20CoreXY/484E1CB9-32FB-4AD7-9F50-3AFD54E932E7_zps2ionmvni.jpgBuild Plate all the way Positive on Z (single motor)
http://i1081.photobucket.com/albums/j346/titancornhusker/Dbot%20CoreXY/1589F06B-674E-4074-AC01-0CE47933E699_zpseutcea4f.jpgTitan extruder setup
http://i1081.photobucket.com/albums/j346/titancornhusker/Dbot%20CoreXY/8F3FD5BF-AB78-452A-B762-094685AE54B8_zpsk9hdbayg.jpgDuet Wifi in case and Power Supply
http://i1081.photobucket.com/albums/j346/titancornhusker/Dbot%20CoreXY/02561DB0-8334-49F4-82A8-09ABD350099B_zpsdmjrymib.jpgThere is no probe on the hotend just the fan shroud,
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I just assembled a DBot with a Duet Wifi and am in process of calibrating/tuning now.
I finally got the homing working on all axis, relevant configuration files here: https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B4QI9opJS9SbSldRZjQ5NUd0U2c
I hope those are of some help.
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I will check those files out as soon as I am home tonight. Is your printer configured with 1 or 2 Z axis motors? Got any pics?
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Regarding your Z endstop, it seems that the microswitch has been bent out of position by the endstop screw on the bed platform.
The original mounting bracket is correct, but the switch itself is supposed to be flush with the PCB, see: https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B4QI9opJS9SbTUp3VE0tWHVSY1kThe first thing I'd do if I were you is to verify that the platform moves in the correct direction, pressing Z +0.1mm in the UI is supposed to move the build plate DOWN. If it doesn't, you need to change the Z motor direction in your config.g then try again.
If that works, I would suggest you take a copy of my homez.g and verify manually that it works as it should.
What I mean by manually is that you- move the build plate down from the UI to something like 100mm (do this in small steps in case your steps/mm is incorrect, simply clicking "Z +100mm" might translate to some ridiculous value in those cases)
- click "Home Z" in the web ui
- verify that the build plate starts moving towards the hotend and
- use your finger to push the Z endstop to verify that the build plate stops. If it doesn't, hit the emergency stop in the UI before the bed crashes into the head/endstop.
E: I'm using the default 2 Z-motor setup, but it's a pain in the butt. Be glad you only have one, my Z axis gets all wonky as soon as I turn off the Z motors since one side will start sagging while the other will stay put. Probably the first upgrade I'll do is either a 1 Z-screw or 3 Z-screw modification. I kinda like the linear rod setup you have on yours, will consider something similar.
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Hey flaw I,
I meant to also ask did you configure yours with a z probe or end stop? And what orientation / location is your Z end stop if using one? That is why I asked if you had any pics. -
Yeah, I have a Z endstop. There's a link to a picture of it in the previous post. The pic can be found in the same folder as as the config files as well.
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Ah, did see you responded so quickly. Yes that is how mine looked, therefore I will put it back in that same position like you have. The screw did bend the end stop, but it looked like it wasn't hitting before the issues. I will check it again as well.
When I hit move Z in plus it does move down towards the bottom and - moves it towards the hot end. Is that correct?
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When I get home this evening I will give your config files a try and post feedback on them. I really appreciate you helping out.
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Ah, did see you responded so quickly. Yes that is how mine looked, therefore I will put it back in that same position like you have. The screw did bend the end stop, but it looked like it wasn't hitting before the issues. I will check it again as well.
When I hit move Z in plus it does move down towards the bottom and - moves it towards the hot end. Is that correct?
Yeah, that seems correct. I was only saying to verify that as that was my first problem with getting Z homing to work, I had it the wrong way around and somehow associated "+" with "up", without realizing that it's inverted since it's the bed that moves and not the hotend like on my Prusa i3.
E: Another thing worth noting is that the end stops will not work when you're manually controlling the printer.
So if you're physically at Z50, and tell the printer to do a relative move of Z-100, it will crash right through the endstop. Just something to keep in mind, I learned this the hard way. -
Hey flawi,
I have had a chance to implement your file structure and I have to say a BIG thank you. Worked perfect, everything homes in exactly as it should. I looked through the config files you generated and I like some of the features, they were better than the originals. I did have to obviously modify the code for my specific setup, such as my hot end. Speaking of which one piece of code is missing or not doing what I need it to. I usually can enter a temp amount in the main screen and it will turn the hot end on and let me know it is active. I can enter the amount of temp, but it doesn't turn it on. There is something I am missing? Any ideas? Here is the coding for my hot end.
; Heaters
;*** You can use S and B parameters to define the parameters of the thermistors you are usingM305 P0 T100000 B4388 R4700 H0 L0 ; Put your own H and/or L values here to set the bed thermistor ADC correction
M305 P1 T100000 B3974 R4700 H0 L0 ; Put your own H and/or L values here to set the first nozzle thermistor ADC correction;M301 H1 P10 I0.10 D100 T0.50 S1.0 ;PID settings for extruder 0 (no need for M301 if using M307)
;M301 H2 P10 I0.10 D100 T0.50 S1.0 ;PID settings for extruder 1M570 S120 ;Increase to allow extra heating time if needed
M307 H0 A81.5 C538.5 D7.0 B0 ;Autotune result for bed
M307 H1 A561.2 C268.8 D6.9 B0 ;Autotuen result for first nozzle -
flawi,
Any chance you made a config-override.g file? I would love to take a look at that as well if you did. Thanks again for all of your help!
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Glad to hear you got it working!
I added my config-override.g to the same folder on Drive. It only includes the results of the PID autotuning so nothing very interesting.
I see your other problem was already answered in the other thread, you just need to set some tool as active. I have it in my Slic3r start code, but I guess it could just as well be in the end of config.g.
