@aquilux thanks, I have added that to the hardware specification and description of connections in the docs:

https://docs.duet3d.com/en/Duet3D_hardware/Duet_3_family/Duet_3_Toolboard_1LC#description-of-connections

@tim-c Without knowing for sure since I do not not own such a printer, a little bit of googling suggests that these are 12-24V NPN inductive sensors which means that they require at least 12V to work reliably.

Have a look in this old thread: https://forum.duet3d.com/topic/12056/npn-12v-endstops-at-duet-wifi

If this is correct, it will behave as my old PL-08N2 inductive probe and output near input voltage when near a metal object. Just make sure that your input port can handle the higher (>3.3V signal) voltage.

@phaedrux Thanks for youre reply the E1 heater works fine. I guess I damaged something on the way....

Glad you're up and running now.

The mounting option is up to you. The sensor only needs to be mounted when doing a measurement, so it does not need to be permanent. The important thing for mounting during a measurement is that it is rigid. That could be achieved with tape since the sensor is so light. If you have a spot to mount it with a printed mount and screws, that's all the better, but not critical for a good measurement.

@abitsean see https://docs.duet3d.com/en/User_manual/Machine_configuration/Configuration_IDEX for how to configure it.

Adding a DueX5 board to your Duet WiFi is the easiest approach to getting another stepper driver, although not the cheapest.

For anyone looking to build an IDEX machine now, the Duet 3 Mini + 2-driver expansion board (total 7 stepper drivers) or Duet 3 MB6HC (6 stepper drivers) would be more economical than Duet 2 + DueX5.

@aquilux thanks for pointing this out - I replaced it with the correct one.

@nicaris remove the T100 and set H-1

@rew3 said in Stop in middle bed compensation or z-offset wrong when rebooted:

@fcwilt
Yes, the wiring to the BLTouch runs alongside the extruder stepper motor's cable in the same cable chain. (it was quite tight before now I bought a wider one because the cables were a bit too much near).

this is how I configured the commands.

M558 P9 C"^zprobe.in" H5 F120 T6000 G31 P500 X0 Y-39 Z0.8

Thanks.

If it were me, as a test, I would find a way to remove the BLTouch wiring from the cable chain to see if the problem goes away.

Frederick

@kr15_uk

Nice thats actually what i did for a start.

I figured out how to use the expansion pins though and it works like a charm!
Thanks for the help and support!

Will def go for a IDEX board next time we're upgrading

@dc42 Thanks for your help, David. Okay, I measured R19 and R53. They both give me 4.7K and from reading the resistors that is correct.
I also checked out the resistors for the thermisters3-7 and they all show 10K which checks out.

So I checked the traces for ADVREF and found the problem. I found a ~4M ohm resistance on the trace which explains a lot of the behaviour I've been observing. Would explain why I was still getting a 3.3V that dropped down to 0.15Volts as I measured it.

I have not yet pinpointed the bad trace though. I've stared at the board till my eyes bleed and I spotted no burn marks or scratches that would indicate the area. Just that it's fine up until the expansion header pin. From there I see goes to the bed thermistor resistor. Which is also fine.

So any suggestions where I could try to run a wire to skip over the bad trace?
No way I can solder to a side of any of those resistors. I don't have a scope, steady hand, and the skills to do something like that.

I was thinking I could start it on the back at the ADVREF pin on the expansion header and then solder to something big enough to try to see if that would jump the bad spot and get my board finally working.

Thanks

Q1: yes (probably)

I use the Pi other SPI bus for driving a string of APA102 LEDs. I'm driving the bus at 10 MHz. Since it's the only SPI device I have on that bus, I don't have a CS line connected. Also it's one-way comms (nothing coming back into the Pi) so I don't use a MISO. Accordingly I just use pins 38 & 40.

So it works for me, but my situation is simpler than yours is likely to be.

@phaedrux We figured out that after moving it somehow the bed was to far out to out for the auto tilt to work, so we had to do a manual adjustment , fixed the bl touch code in that bed.g and led, that was in the code we had copied when set up the auto tilt that would flash when done. Thanks for your help

the wires you used there are way to stiff with all that effector movement. get yourself decent wires..i uses a igus cable...made for automations...expensive but someone at reprap forum made a strain relief for the smart effector and that cable. Or get some Heluflon or other decent brand and make all wires new.

@phaedrux

I ran through wiring and discovered one had worn through the shielding near the connection point through the case. I patched this up and replaced the fuse, good as new!

@del87 said in Stallguard detection not working:

What is the repeatability of sensorless parking with your parameters?

I dont look to the sensorless homing like to the preciese type of homing.

@jay_s_uk I had success with your proposition, thank you !

@theolodian said in Control a solenoid? Not working:

Speaking of which, on 3.4RC2 in SBC mode the M584 error comes up consistently on changing the config.g file. An emergency stop sorts it out though. I have a G4 S5 on boot up to wait for the expansion boards.

There has been a fix to RRF since RC2 that addresses this.

@ashillis mines working fine now wired through my connector all mounted up properly. i wasnt welding anything, all crimped connections. no interference. just shoddy connections preciously